Expert X setup help needed

[zachalyse]

Posted this in the 2 stroke forum with not much luck. Hope you guys can help.

Recently installed an Expert X in my Viper. All went in great and easy. All measurements checked out and looks real good. Now, I'm tryind to set adjustments to my riding style. I'm having several problems here.

When I try to adjust my weight transfer to the lowest setting (groove 7 as shown in the setup guide), I'm only able to crank it to groove 4. There is a large rubber bushing that is stopping me from adjusting it any lower. (note: the diagrams do not show this rubber bushing). Also, the flanged nut that holds the rod into the plastic transfer piece is flush with the thread.(no threads are showing as shown on the diagram) I have also noticed, that even with the sled elevated and weight transfer cranked to the fullest setting, the limiter straps are nowhere near tight. I could easily move them to the next hole. Ad Boivin says, I should not have to touch them, but they should be tight, and plenty of thread should be showing past the flanged nut..

Finally, My suspension does not have the clicker type shocks. Adjusting them with the tool given is really difficult. Any suggestions. I can provide photos it it would help.
When comparing things to the setup guide and diagrams, not much seems to add up.

thanks

 

[Buster696]

My sugestion is ride it like you have it and then make adjustments.

I adjusted mine the first time out vs. what was sugested from AD Bovin.

Also, to crank it down more (if needed), lift the back of the sled to unload the skid and you may be able to get more turns out of it. The only issue is when out on the trail, you may not be able adjust it unless you lift the back of the sled...

Hope this helps...
--Buster696--

 

[LazyBastard]

When I try to adjust my weight transfer to the lowest setting (groove 7 as shown in the setup guide), I'm only able to crank it to groove 4. There is a large rubber bushing that is stopping me from adjusting it any lower. (note: the diagrams do not show this rubber bushing). Also, the flanged nut that holds the rod into the plastic transfer piece is flush with the thread.(no threads are showing as shown on the diagram)

Don't know what to suggest to you for this. Looking at mine, I see the same thing. I'm thinking that I may have to try it without the rubber, or with a thinner rubber.

I have also noticed, that even with the sled elevated and weight transfer cranked to the fullest setting, the limiter straps are nowhere near tight.

Track a little too tight? Rubber bumper in the way? You should run this skid with the track fairly loose. It may also be necessary to have weight on it and button pressed for straps to full extend depending on the relationship between the ride height and control rod.

I could easily move them to the next hole. Ad Boivin says, I should not have to touch them, but they should be tight, and plenty of thread should be showing past the flanged nut..

The guys on the phone there are MORONS. You gotta experiment with it yourself.

Finally, My suspension does not have the clicker type shocks. Adjusting them with the tool given is really difficult.

If it had a shock adjustment, that would be for rebound or compression. The shocks are NOT adjustable. That tool is for adjusting the SPRING, NOT the shocks. If you sit on it and it goes down too far, put the spring on a higher cam.

 

[Bossrx1]

When I put an X in my SRX I questioned the limeter straps too and was told they are only there to prevent the skid from dropping to far in deep snow and catching the tips of the rails.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

If your skis are up in the air too much or if you have no control in the corners..........take the limiter straps in. I almost flipped mine over the first time I tryed it. Don't run you track too tight. Loosen it up till it starts to ratchet then tighten up slightly till the ratcheting goes away. You will be fine after that.

 

[LazyBastard]

I almost flipped mine over the first time I tryed it.

Can't wait to try mine... NEXT WEEK!!

 

[zachalyse]

I forgot to add that I also installed a brand new 1.25" ripsaw that may be a little stiff right now and will stretch some. Should I still set it real loose or maybe a little tighter than normal with anticipation of it stretching slightly.

It rubs pretty good on the front exchanger protectors. Do you thing this is normal?

Thanks for all the help guys. Far more than I've been getting from the 2 stroke side. Hopefully, I'll be joining you next year with a new Apex.

 

[LazyBastard]

Unless you changed the drivers, it shouldn't be rubbing anywhere around the front.

 

[Bossrx1]

I had to notch my camo 1 1/4 on my SRX where it rubbed on the front protectors too.

 

[LazyBastard]

RX1 comes STOCK with 1.25" track. It HAS the clearance.

 

[Bossrx1]

Hey LB

zachalyse wrote:

"Recently installed an Expert X in my Viper. All went in great and easy. All measurements checked out and looks real good. Now, I'm tryind to set adjustments to my riding style. I'm having several problems here. "

 

[LazyBastard]

LOL.

I thought this was a 4-stroke forum?

Disregard above.... I don't know whats under a viper.

 

[bjowett]

Funny you mention that nut, as it's used for weight transfer adjustment on the Snowhawk 500F. The collar and bushing in front of the drawbar on the rod are not there. Have a look at the manual, page 12-7, also good info on rebuilding the shocks.

http://www.snow-hawk.com/en/pdf/503/ch1 ... H_2003.PDF

 

[zachalyse]

Too bad AD Boivin couldn't supply this typ of information for the Expert X. They do seem kind of like morons when you speak to them. One thing I found was that they could give me no explanation as to why the rubber bushing is there vs. not being shown in any of their diagrams in the installation manual.

They have told me that if, following their instructions, adjustment don't work out as they say they should than I, quite frankly, must have installed it wrong. Yet the more searching and talking with guys that have one, mine is setup just like theirs. I'm certian it's not the installation.

It's just poor service with lack of knowledge on their own product and an outdated manual.

I believe removing the rubber will give a greater range of adjustment.

 

[LazyBastard]

From what I've heard, the rubber stops it from "clunking". Probably also helps trail manners, since its like putting a spring on the transfer - less throttle, less transfer. Otherwise, gas it at all, and it'll stand right up on its as$.