First impressions of my Attak on the trail

[steveg_nh]

So I finally got out on my Attak the last couple of days and got to see how all my hard work paid off.

For those that don’t know the history here it is.

Light at the end of the (sled) tunnel - Attak Overhaul
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...-tunnel---Attak-Overhaul.149515/&share_type=t

Anyway not the best conditions to ride in considering it was -15° up in northern NH but I had to get out there. Tons of snow though.

First everything worked just great. No issues. I do still have the belt squeal so I’m going to remove a spacer to lower the belt in the secondary a bit.

But overall I’m very pleased. It handles very well. Steering is good, ski pressure balanced and rear suspension seems to have the right amount of transfer and travel. Very pleased. Great upgrade from the 2004 Viper proaction suspension.

Some of the observations I made that I may want to address.

1. I slide around the seat. A lot. [emoji41] very slippery.

2. The hand warmers. Well you guys were all right. I couldn’t feel them at all granted it was very cold but I’m not even sure they were working at all. Are they that bad or maybe they aren’t working at all.

3. Holy power band Batman. I was riding with my son but at 40mph I was easily only at about 25% throttle. The kick is unreal when you hit it.

4. Touchy throttle too. Very sensitive. I have to smooth it out as I was a bit “jerky” with it over some bumps and slower more technical stuff.

5. I really like the soft start spring from BOP. Such a nice smooth take off.

6. It starts easy in really cold stuff. Even -15°. [emoji1360]

7. The tall mirrors I put on it work. They aren’t perfect but better than nothing and I can see the lights behind me. I heard the Yamaha ones are worthless.

8. My handlebars are a bit crooked. My fault from when I did ski alignment. It’s not bad so I can live with it till it’s warmer.

9. Good call on the mid height Vector windshield. Good air control and I wasn’t cold in these temps. Good flow over helmet without buffeting.

10. The drone sound is real around 30mph. Kind of annoying. Any easy solutions besides ear plugs? Totally reminds me of my Viper. The sled isn’t as quiet as I thought it would be but sounds really nice. Very throaty.

I’m pleased and actually had quite a few compliments on the coloring and hood wrap.

Thanks to all that helped me get this sled on the trail and up to my standards.

@CaptCaper I was in your neck of the woods on the way home today.

 

[Ringold24]

I also slid around my seat to easily. I switched to a WRP and it’s much better. It’s probably the single best mod I’ve made to my Attak.

 

[CaptCaper]

Steve all those things you'll get use to after a few thousand miles..ha. Don't spend money on a seat...you put enough this year into it.

I forgot about drone. Just use to it. Love the stock clutch..not jerky.. just know know how to handle it. Reverse can be touchy.. take care. Ride the brake a bit in reverse will help.

You will need Gauntlets or Yamaheater.. They work but not very good.. in our temps here now they will seem not to be on at all. I've been riding mine with Yamaheaters full bore.. yesterday had to turn them down as temps got to 5 deg.

If you don't get the ski's aligned via a arm area there is a adjustment under gas tank up front that turns the handle bar as well. Some times you need to do this in conjunction with the a arm area ones.

 

[Winderallday!]

Avoid use of any vynil protection products such as Armor All on the seat
Yamaheaters will be money well spent, no more cold hands
Drone could be worse due to the muffler modification you used (recall something different about exhaust you put on)? I tried an MBRP on my 08, lasted one trip, she goonne! Riding at those slower speeds there will always be a drone, solution....ride faster of course!
You will adapt to all the other different things you mention such as touchy throttle.
Glad to hear your hard work paid off, enjoy the season!

 

[Kevlar55]

Watch out for compression brakeing when you let off the gas and standing up. I went over the handle bars with my ATTAK when my thumb slipped off the throttle. It took a few rides to get used to the four stroke.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks guys... great thoughts...

Yeah that backshifting was really something! I'm ok with it though. On the exhaust, I went from a SilentQ after market, or something like that, back to stock. Just a mountain exhaust with turned tips vs regular straight tips. My buddy says it sounds "just like his did."

Captn, what adjustment under the gas tank? I didn't see anything there to adjust. I have my skis perfect, with a bit of toe out, but getting to the inside A arm nut on the tie rod was only possible because I had the air box and pod off so I could clean the starter relay connector. I was able to reach down and get the rubber boots seated in their grooves/brackets properly. Can't do that from the outside, and since I was accessing the inner nuts through the boots, I had to pull them.

 

[CaptCaper]

The one under the tank in front does both at once. Not separately. Thus lining up the handle bar with skis. That has to be set right or you wouldn't have any play or two much play on the tie rods. If you had enough threads to work with on the tie rods then your all set and wouldn't have to take the tank off.
You can adjust the tie rods from the outside. Pull boot open turn the skis to get at and access the upper nuts. I use silicone lube so the boot goes back into the groove nicely after all done.

I love the engine braking.. hate the wifes 2010 Vector without it.

 

[Redbeard]

Here you go Steve. This is the tie rod under the tank, as mentioned above.

The second pic is a tool to keep the relay arms, under the aibox, locked in dead center while performing ski alignment. It's not necessary, but if you're in deep like you were this summer, it's nice tool to keep everything locked in place while making adjustments.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks guys. I do remember that steering tie rod now. Hate to take all that apart to get to it though. I do have enough threads at the A arms to adjust here again and just redo ski alignment making sure handlebars are straight. Like I mentioned though I could not get the boots back in from the outside. I’ll probably wait on this still the seasons over.

 

[Winderallday!]

If you crank the bars all the way to one side, it doesn't take much to expose the front inside tie rod joint you want to adjust, by pushing the rubber boot over it.

 

[steveg_nh]

Interesting. So don’t pull the boot from its seat just slide it back over the nut? Love the sled though! Didn’t find it “heavy” at all as all my buddies said I would. My SX Viper wasn’t exactly lightweight. Lol

 

[CaptCaper]

You take the boot edge from the front and peel it back out of the groove it's in exposing the nut. You don't push the boot up the tie rod over the nut. At least this is how I do it. I just had to do my new Attak..way off due to collision from previous owner.You have to turn the ski away. It's simple to do.. your not in the right frame of mind probably. It's hard to get a wrench on the nut but you can. Best to loosen the bottom first and back off the rod from the upper nut. With some oil on the treads the nut will turn easier. The boot is tricky to get back in and silicone on it will help it to slide back into it's groove.

 

[steveg_nh]

I know what you mean, and that's how I did it before. Just had a hell of a time getting the boot back in the bracket.

 

[Al Bundy]

I know what you mean, and that's how I did it before. Just had a hell of a time getting the boot back in the bracket.

Plenty of snow down there?

 

[SumpBuster]

If you crank the bars all the way to one side, it doesn't take much to expose the front inside tie rod joint you want to adjust, by pushing the rubber boot over it.

Exactly. the nut will be easy to get...just push the boot inside. I adjust toe several times a season. But on a sidewinder, you have to remove some of the little tab locks to pull the boot down to get at the inside nut.