boppin929
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I just did my first oil change on my 2014 Yamaha Viper LTX. I followed procedure in manual, pulled drain screw by filter, pulled filter, and drained oil tank via drain plug.
I then replace oil filter, drain screw by filter, and the oil tank plug.
I put in 3 quarts and ran engine, No low pressure light, so far so go.
The sight glass on the oil tank was half full as it should be, but I felt like 3 quarts was not close to the correct amount as everywhere I read says this sled takes 4 quarts.... Of course the thrown together manual has no fluid level specs like every other motorized vehicle under the sun.
So I added another 1/2 quart for a total of 3.5 quarts in the tank. I then took sled up to operating temp, let it fully cool for a day and checked.
The sight glass is still completely full. The sled is being checked while level.
Now obviously with a dry sump "too much oil" is not really a concern since the oil tank is not filled to the brim.
My concern is that I will not have enough because I only put in 3.5 quarts.
How much oil has everyone else been adding during their oil changes? Is 3.5 the norm? Is a full oil tank sight glass the norm?
Thanks for any help or insight guys!
I then replace oil filter, drain screw by filter, and the oil tank plug.
I put in 3 quarts and ran engine, No low pressure light, so far so go.
The sight glass on the oil tank was half full as it should be, but I felt like 3 quarts was not close to the correct amount as everywhere I read says this sled takes 4 quarts.... Of course the thrown together manual has no fluid level specs like every other motorized vehicle under the sun.
So I added another 1/2 quart for a total of 3.5 quarts in the tank. I then took sled up to operating temp, let it fully cool for a day and checked.
The sight glass is still completely full. The sled is being checked while level.
Now obviously with a dry sump "too much oil" is not really a concern since the oil tank is not filled to the brim.
My concern is that I will not have enough because I only put in 3.5 quarts.
How much oil has everyone else been adding during their oil changes? Is 3.5 the norm? Is a full oil tank sight glass the norm?
Thanks for any help or insight guys!
Last edited:
viperrtx
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I put about 3.5 quarts as well. All seems good so far put 600 miles on after the oil change and still sight glass is 3/4 full
yamahaguy
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Keep in mind when you drain it your not getting 100% of the oil out. The specs in the manual are when adding oil to a new sled thats never had oil in it, so its going to take a bit more then a oil change. Specs say 4.1qt for a sight glass model and 4.4qt for dipstick model but that's when its completely dry. Also dont forget to let it get to operating temperature ( or once the fan turns on ) and then your suppose to shut it off and wait 30secs to take your oil level reading but no longer then 90 seconds because the oil level will slowly increase as the engine drains back. If your oil is above the sight glass you have to much oil in it, probably not a big deal if its just a bit higher. If you lay it on its side then its more likely to push out the vent.
rbell14
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I put 4 qts in mine after the oil change. Sight glass is full. Can't stand the method of warming up the engine to check the oil??? Mine is always full in the sight glass.
The best is yet to come once you do the chain case drain..LOL What a BS process, just put a damn drain plug in that thing.
The best is yet to come once you do the chain case drain..LOL What a BS process, just put a damn drain plug in that thing.
15viperltx
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2015 Viper LTX-DX
What's the best way to drain the chain case? Just lossen the lower torx?
boppin929
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Right, I was thinking the same thing.. Chain cases have always had plugs... Who decided it was better to not have one??
I am just going to suction the Chain Case fluid out when I do it, after the mess I made doing the oil change I learned my lesson! Even with a funnel setup I still got oil everywhere!
I am not happy that I have to take the reverse actuator off to do the suction and fill on the chain case, would it really have been too much to just put a fill plug and drain plug in.. oh well... maintenance on the viper may be a pain, but it is worth it for the RIDE!
Sounds like I should be good on oil then, figured I better double check what others were doing just for piece of mind.
I am just going to suction the Chain Case fluid out when I do it, after the mess I made doing the oil change I learned my lesson! Even with a funnel setup I still got oil everywhere!
I am not happy that I have to take the reverse actuator off to do the suction and fill on the chain case, would it really have been too much to just put a fill plug and drain plug in.. oh well... maintenance on the viper may be a pain, but it is worth it for the RIDE!
Sounds like I should be good on oil then, figured I better double check what others were doing just for piece of mind.
rbell14
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I was going to suction it out but found out there are gears and chain that did not allow me to get the tube down in there.
I loosened the bottom bolts and worked my way up. Once they were all lose I used a screwdriver to just hold it open a bit at the bottom. It drained well but still a stupid setup. A couple of the torq screws are very tough to get to. Had to use the little too they provided on it. Not to mention removing the suit case muffler to get to the screws and chain tensioner. (Better muffler will be coming)
Be sure to purchase a new muffler gasket, you will need it. Once I buttoned it all up again, it was fine.
Reverse actuator is very simple to remove and install. That's the easiest part.
I loosened the bottom bolts and worked my way up. Once they were all lose I used a screwdriver to just hold it open a bit at the bottom. It drained well but still a stupid setup. A couple of the torq screws are very tough to get to. Had to use the little too they provided on it. Not to mention removing the suit case muffler to get to the screws and chain tensioner. (Better muffler will be coming)
Be sure to purchase a new muffler gasket, you will need it. Once I buttoned it all up again, it was fine.
Reverse actuator is very simple to remove and install. That's the easiest part.
Dicker from JP
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Oh boy sounds like a bit of a chore..LOL. Just finished my break in and am going to do these things this weekend. I may be on here looking for some advice before this procedure is over.
Groomer08
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
You dont have to change chaincase oil at 500, just adjust tension. Manual says 2500 miles or season, whichever comes first.
Engine oil at 500, and its a nightmare if you have skidplates.
Engine oil at 500, and its a nightmare if you have skidplates.
Curtis Chambers
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For a few hundred let dealer do it every other year.
My job is to ride it
My job is to ride it
dlinebacker36w
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Draining the oil can do you pull that bolt out or do you take the clamp off the hose coming out bottom?
yamahaguy
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Take the bolt out and drain from there otherwise you will have a mess if you pull the hose off. Use a 1 ltr pop bottle cut in half from top to bottom. It will fit right up through the largest hole in the running board and catch all the oil and not spill a drop. Remove the 4 torx screws and remove the toe guard so you can get the funnel in place. Its really pretty we easy.
Last edited:
dlinebacker36w
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Done now used a water bottle and like the setup to get to it also and sure enough the old o ring on the old filter stuck right up there and good thing I double checked it any other tips I might of missed
Snorover
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I understand that the dealers pump out the oil and the chain case too. If thats so, then I will need a pump.
Anyone use a pump?? What kind and where to get one.
I think its darn ceap of the mfgs to not put in a drain plug and fill plug. Just my 2 cents.
Anyone use a pump?? What kind and where to get one.
I think its darn ceap of the mfgs to not put in a drain plug and fill plug. Just my 2 cents.
rbell14
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I considered an extractor for chaincase but gears and chain interfered with trying to get tube to the bottom.
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