Fuel Light Issues and Darting/Heavy Steering

[Hannibal802]

I've got a couple issues I've got to work through. Bought a used 08 Nytro last year knowing handling was an issue, really wanted to try out the 4 stroke. I like the sled, I've got to start to work on the darting and heavy steering. So I have a Barnofparts steering relocate kit that I've waited to put on, I wanted to feel what the sled would do first with the Star Relocate and the 4" rail extension at a 136". 100 miles I could tolerate it, but those last 50 really worked me. I've had sleds with C&A skis with deep keels, this felt 1.5x harder to turn, especially that last little bit.

So the steering relocate is going on before the next ride, but that's obviously not going to help the darting. I plan to next year get the Mountain Industries Trail A Arms, I want to know what to do now to stop the darting. I've heard stock single keel skis with snowtrackers will fix that, but how well will that work with the MI A arms? I guess I could just revert back to the stock carbides at that time if it was a problem. Or are there other dual runner carbides that could work?

I also have a fuel light issue that I'm not able to find. The gas gauge was working fine, filled it in the morning, rode 90 miles, filled it again but the second time I filled it the gas light stayed on. I tried turning it off and letting it sit but the light was still on. About 30 miles after filling it appeared to work again for a few miles before saying I had low fuel again. Any ideas where to start with that?

 

[yamadoo]

Nytro handling issues are commonly addressed, may have good luck with a search. I am not a Nyrtro owner but long time 4 stroke guy and often people new to four strokes feel the sled darts around trail when coming OFF the accelerator. Remember to ease of the gas to avoid compression braking and loading the front end/skis. Hope that helps others will chime in with more specific Nytro help.

 

[Keith1962]

Darting is a noted issue on the 2008s. Proper ski alignment and shimming the skis will help, dual runner carbides or snowtrackers will help too. The snowtrackers should be fine with the Mountaintech arms. The Mountaintech arm will improve your handling quite a bit, or so I'm told. I haven't cracked that but a yet. As far as the low fuel light goes, I would suspect a rub through in your harness, but I'm guessing.

 

[Brotherdan]

I've got a couple issues I've got to work through. Bought a used 08 Nytro last year knowing handling was an issue, really wanted to try out the 4 stroke. I like the sled, I've got to start to work on the darting and heavy steering. So I have a Barnofparts steering relocate kit that I've waited to put on, I wanted to feel what the sled would do first with the Star Relocate and the 4" rail extension at a 136". 100 miles I could tolerate it, but those last 50 really worked me. I've had sleds with C&A skis with deep keels, this felt 1.5x harder to turn, especially that last little bit.

So the steering relocate is going on before the next ride, but that's obviously not going to help the darting. I plan to next year get the Mountain Industries Trail A Arms, I want to know what to do now to stop the darting. I've heard stock single keel skis with snowtrackers will fix that, but how well will that work with the MI A arms? I guess I could just revert back to the stock carbides at that time if it was a problem. Or are there other dual runner carbides that could work?

I also have a fuel light issue that I'm not able to find. The gas gauge was working fine, filled it in the morning, rode 90 miles, filled it again but the second time I filled it the gas light stayed on. I tried turning it off and letting it sit but the light was still on. About 30 miles after filling it appeared to work again for a few miles before saying I had low fuel again. Any ideas where to start with that?

Do you have an inspection camera? If not you could try a flashlight & mirror in your tank for your fuel issue look inside the tank & make sure the float arm for the level sensor isnt bent& is intact, you can also remove the sending unit& test it with a multimeter

 

[ChiefMn]

I spent a lot of time and money trying to fix the heavy steering and darting.
just bite the bullet and buy the snowtackers. zero darting and it feels like power steering was installed

 

[Hannibal802]

I spent a lot of time and money trying to fix the heavy steering and darting.
just bite the bullet and buy the snowtackers. zero darting and it feels like power steering was installed

Yeah just did. I was looking at Woody's and Stud Boys dual runners till I found out that the price I was seeing ($80) was for a single and not a pair. $175 for a pair of Snowtrackers.

 

[Hannibal802]

I spent a lot of time and money trying to fix the heavy steering and darting.
just bite the bullet and buy the snowtackers. zero darting and it feels like power steering was installed

I received them this week and installed, did 190 miles. I felt like it improved darting, but holy #*$&@ does it still take effort to turn. I did the steering relocate as well and thought it significantly improved it, after riding my Polaris back to back with the Nytro, the Nytro feels like you are trying to turn a car sitting still without power steering on pavement compared to my Polaris which is my main sled. I know, two different sleds, but I still think something is wrong and it shouldn't turn THAT hard. Its got to be over 15x harder no doubt.

 

[ChiefMn]

set toe in at zero
flip ski rubbers around or if you already have add 1/4 shims to rear of mount
I have fox air shocks and run them at 60 pounds
crank more spring compression into center shock to transfer weight from skis to skid
I also removed the transfer blocks on mine
I have the compression and rebound set it the middle on both rear shocks
I have the semi aggressive ones on mine and it steers one handed easily

 

[Hannibal802]

set toe in at zero
flip ski rubbers around or if you already have add 1/4 shims to rear of mount
I have fox air shocks and run them at 60 pounds
crank more spring compression into center shock to transfer weight from skis to skid
I also removed the transfer blocks on mine
I have the compression and rebound set it the middle on both rear shocks
I have the semi aggressive ones on mine and it steers one handed easily

I double checked, the toe is zero as near I can tell. Also running the semi aggressive ones.
I was going to reduce the limiter strap but both are already at the last hole so they can't get any looser. I'll have to try to crank more spring compression into it.
I have the GYTR clicker shocks, during my ride I cranked the top adjustment (assuming thats compression) all the way soft. The bottom clicker (assuming thats rebound) I was 10 clicks from full soft. That was bottoming over some bumps, but I really couldn't go harder because it made it worse to turn.

Also have the Star Suspension skid relocate with 4" rail extensions. I've heard the skid relocate puts more ski pressure down which may be part of the culprit but no turning back now.

 

[m.schuey7]

JREsport.com

 

[ChiefMn]

I also have the skid relocate without the 4 " extension though. One thing I forgot is I have also done the upper ball joint mod

 

[maim]

did the re locate on another sled and it made the steering stupid heavy. hope you get it.

 

[74Nitro]

Your heavy steering could just be the bottom ball joints are done.

 

[Hannibal802]

How are you supposed to crank more compression into the center shock? I have shock wrenches, theres no room to get them in there and I can't turn it at all. Even the two front shocks don't want to turn, but those I don't believe have any preload set in them.

I did try turning the spring dampers around, that didn't do anything. And I put the stock carbides back on just to eliminate the snowtrackers being the issue. Trying to eliminate anything that could be the hang up before I spend more money.

 

[kviper]

Snowtrackers need the front of the ski on the ground/in the snow to work. The front defuser can't work if the ski is tipped back and tipping the front up rear down will make it steer hard also. If you have any shims installed behind the spindel take them out. Trackers are not designed to work that way.