Fully Cliped VS. Every 3rd window Closed

I am debating running a stud in the closed window. I am not sure what length to run on 1.25 ripsaw. Options would be to extrude the track by .25 or .375 or the same depth as track. I think it would get better traction and would carry hyfax with less friction. it would also leave this area closed to retain snow.
 
ON my 05 vector I added a fully clipped ripsaw with skidoo extraverts and I lost 5 MPH on top end and slider ware was no different.
 
grizzerly said:
I am debating running a stud in the closed window. I am not sure what length to run on 1.25 ripsaw. Options would be to extrude the track by .25 or .375 or the same depth as track. I think it would get better traction and would carry hyfax with less friction. it would also leave this area closed to retain snow.

Not a good idea, that's right in line with the tunnel protectors
 
I managaed whole 50k on my first set of sliders with every third one open. I cut out every one and got almost 2000k out of the 2nd set of sliders. for me I seemed to get plenty snow on the rails.
 
this is why the mechanic i talked to said they put these boolt thru flat carrige bolts in the closed windows to prevent drag(friction) instead of the extra wheel kit and it helps alot he said.
 
closed window prevents snow from getting in your track...with todays taller lugs....you are farther away from the hardpacked trail than ever..why does camoplast do it then...I believe it to be a marketing thing that there is a benefit to us...in reality the benefit is to them...less steel and processes..less cost..

the only way to get snow to the slides is windows open...or windows open fully clipped..


closed windows will sometimes leave a rubber against plastic scenario at the least...and at the worst..."snirt" snow mixed with sand or dirt rips your slides away in due dispatch...
for me...it's fully clipped... someone asked if cutting weakens...actually..opening all the windows allows the track to flex/bend easier ...maybe a little more efficiency to help offset some of the additional weight of clips..
 
Alos..some ski's throw more snow into the slides..I have simmons with snow throwers on...and they throw a lot onto the slides...
 
i agree with the above posted solutions but mine does a fine job, costs nothing, and only takes a few minutes to do. with a inch and one eighth hole saw drill out the closed windows. period. no extra clips, no pads, no problems.
 
Grader that sounds so simple and right ;)!

Anyone else done this? it sounds good to me!



Yamadoo
 
I did it to mine and it held up fine.
 
slide wear.

Jeff,
I have wear pads, and want to know how you keep them from turning. Especially when removing them.

I read a post with a great idea today. Saw studs off, and use them as wear pads.

The wear pads are elevator bolts. I bought about 300 of them on ebay for about $40. They even make some with a, allen hole in the middle.
 
Re: slide wear.

apex yooper said:
Jeff,
I have wear pads, and want to know how you keep them from turning. Especially when removing them.

I read a post with a great idea today. Saw studs off, and use them as wear pads.

The wear pads are elevator bolts. I bought about 300 of them on ebay for about $40. They even make some with a, allen hole in the middle.

I think studs have too much of a lip on them.
An allen wrench hole would be nice. A high speed drill or air wrench works for most of them, for the rest it's a vise grips on the outside edge.
 
yamadoo said:
Grader that sounds so simple and right ;)!

Anyone else done this? it sounds good to me!



Yamadoo

cause of the difficult job to fully clip...if I had it to do over this is what I'd do..
 
yamadoo said:
Grader that sounds so simple and right ;)!

Anyone else done this? it sounds good to me!

Yamadoo

Did my Vector and Apex...works great...and amazing how much melted slider plastic is on the back of the rubber pieces you cut out...
 


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