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Gap closed loop tuning!!

That said my Viper seems to go leaner during very cold temps, shitty factory tune is probably the real cause.
 

That said my Viper seems to go leaner during very cold temps, shitty factory tune is probably the real cause.

Bingo, the factory tune wasn't optimized for the full range of conditions. The VE table is built with a number of data conditions, the injector flow rate compared to the IAT multiplier are used to help offset changes from temperature changes in stock open loop. This wasn't optimize to achieve optimum performance.... It all comes down to the quality of the objective set by the OEM factory R&D team had the programmer fulfill.
 
Warmer weather or colder weather shouldn’t affect your afr’s, you have an intake air temp sensor that adjusts for that. If your sleds going pig rich in warmer temps, it’s probably because it’s tuned for that. When your engine gets over a certain temperature there’s more than likely a fuel multiplier that goes into effect essentially adding more fuel to stave off detonation.

Air temperatures really should have no affect on a good tune, your sled has an iat sensor.

Now differences in fuels specific gravity and alcohol content are what cause Afr’s to change drastically.

The program that goes into the computer besides the tune is designed to rich or lean the tune to the desired air fuel ratio all the time hot or cold outside. Should be big difference than running a preset parameter.
 
Oh I’m not arguing it’s a better mousetrap, just letting y’all know that air temperatures should not have an affect on afr of your engine if it’s properly tuned. E85 vehicle’s use a ethanol content sensor because once you get more than 15% alcohol content, oxygen sensor is to slow to react and fuel trims are not instantaneous to adjust.

Personally for that price I would get a PCV5 and wideband O2 with auto tune. Then if I ever wanted to adjust my fueling for a larger turbo or different intake, I could do so.

M2C
 
Does the GAP software allow for user settings for afr targets? Can you modify your base VE table for things like intakes and larger turbos?
I’m thinking no, but I could be wrong.
 
The Hurricane gap closed look system is essentially a preset auto tune. We build the tunes to be safe and powerful on the cold air days. Thus the warm days make less power because there’s less oxygen to burn through the chemical reaction that occurs during combustion.
The 998 has an baro meter to adjust for altitude as well as an air temp sensor but the warm days will be higher in humidity. This humidity can displace some of the usable oxygen. The sled has no way of measuring this. This is why ,like all road vehicles, we need an o2 sensor to be able to measure the remaining oxygen in the exhaust after the burn. By this oxygen measurement we can tell the ratio of the air/fuel mixture that was in the cylinder. We have now added the algorithm to the ecu to be able to correct the next burn based on the result of the last stroke.
The Hurricane gap closed loop system is intended to insure that the tune runes as it was intended on all days. Not just the cold days. The afr values are preset by Hurricane to insure this.
The Hurricane gap closed loop system is not intended to correct for a mechanical defect or swapping parts such as header without the proper flash. The Hurricane gap closed loop system works incredibly well insuring that the engine runs at the correct afr on the cold days as well as the warm days as your flash was originally intended to perform by Hurricane performance
 
Here is a video by one of the vendors of the gap innovations wide band o2 module.
Is it features and benefits or smoke and mirrors?
He runs a 250 non header tune on the sled on the dyno with a header and 3 inch muffler installed on sled. He adjusts the fuel air ratio on the copi trail and makes 288hp.
Looks to me like there are alot of options here.

 
Oh I’m not arguing it’s a better mousetrap, just letting y’all know that air temperatures should not have an affect on afr of your engine if it’s properly tuned. E85 vehicle’s use a ethanol content sensor because once you get more than 15% alcohol content, oxygen sensor is to slow to react and fuel trims are not instantaneous to adjust.

Personally for that price I would get a PCV5 and wideband O2 with auto tune. Then if I ever wanted to adjust my fueling for a larger turbo or different intake, I could do so.

M2C
Glad you mentioned PC5. If you're ever interested, I have a new one for sale. It's about 2 years old.
 
I fully understand the sarcasm as it is a big number. Looking at the video again I see 14.5 briefly. However, when I had a subscription to dynotech research, I remember reading plenty of tests with boost at only 13 lbs on otherwise stock machines and the increase was impressive. What I also noticed is that the power levels did not increase the same way as boost levels rose. It took much more boost to get less power the higher the attempts. Ecotrail before was said to be good for 250 with a 2.5 muffler and 13.5 lbs. So can a header with 3 inch muffler at 14.5 make 288...? I am slightly skeptical also. I'd prefer to see it on a crankshaft dyno. I also noticed the airbox lid was off.

Not sure about actual hp numbers. But at the lower boost 13-14lbs a header and 3inch would see a big increase in Hp over no header and 2.5. These headers flow big time. Now once you get into the higher boost you would see less of a increase comparing the different exhaust setups as turbo is maxing out.
 
I dont believe Ben ever made any claims that the closed loop option increased hp. The video is a standard “250” flash with a header added and 3” exhaust. It was to show the system in operation adding fuel. He states that its best to start with a tune as close to possible. It was a demonstration.
 
Here's my thoughts for what its worth;

Unless your drag racing/speed running all the time and must get every available hp that day I don't see this option being that important.

I've ran tunes from day 1 (4) years ago and have never even on the warmest days felt my sled was not performing well.

Sure you might get 10-20 more kms a tank but thats not super important to me. I run all the big trails in Northern Ontario and have never needed to use my link can. 200+ kms on a tank with a 280+ hp sled is pretty darn good in my books.

Fantastic marketing from the tuners to every year release something new to keep us reaching back into our pockets and throwing more money at them.
 
You have really watch those adjustable FPR gauges too, they don't last. So saying your running rich , take side panel off, gauge reads 53 key on. You go huh that's why , crank it back to 43 only to find out the gauge was wrong and your now running 33.

Thats why you run an AFR gauge as well....
 


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