Shane
Expert
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I am still trying to set up the ZX2 with the front shocks (Ohlins) for the proper balance for handling as well as being able to carry the skiis over the nasty stuff. I think I am going to set the pre-load on the front springs such that the locking collars are just snug against the springs while the sled is suspended on the lift. I realize that this does not necessarily put the A-Arms parallel to the ground but I believe that the springs should not free float when unloaded. I currently have the weight transfer set at stock (2) and I moved the coupling pin to position 5 I believe which is least amount of coupling.
Spring pre-load on rear shocks is at the 3rd notch. I weigh 225-230 in street clothes. Perhaps I will need to tighten one position to avoid bottoming on the G-outs. This rear suspension is the tits, just have to get it set right for the handling up front and ride in the rear.
Any thoughts or experience? Thanks guys!
Spring pre-load on rear shocks is at the 3rd notch. I weigh 225-230 in street clothes. Perhaps I will need to tighten one position to avoid bottoming on the G-outs. This rear suspension is the tits, just have to get it set right for the handling up front and ride in the rear.
Any thoughts or experience? Thanks guys!
kinger
VIP Member
About all you can do is try different revolver setting still you like it.
I have my GYTR's shocks on the sofests preload and its too soft I get massive ski lift, I am going t tighten 6 turns from full loose and try that I would do the same for you.
To set pre-load a process I use and reccomend is sit on it and with your weight get 1/2" drop, keep changing the preload till you get that then LEAVE it. Dont look for 2" like a normal sled that takes you out of the cushy soft zone of the shock and into the anti bottom zone aka stiff. That will save you one adjustment. Then mess with the revolver in all positions to get a feel for how much adjustment it gives you, settle on the one you like the best. If its still not handling go to the front and start there. Of course this is all after the intial 200 mile ride and you checked all the bolts for proper TQ and your track tension is spot on.
I have my GYTR's shocks on the sofests preload and its too soft I get massive ski lift, I am going t tighten 6 turns from full loose and try that I would do the same for you.
To set pre-load a process I use and reccomend is sit on it and with your weight get 1/2" drop, keep changing the preload till you get that then LEAVE it. Dont look for 2" like a normal sled that takes you out of the cushy soft zone of the shock and into the anti bottom zone aka stiff. That will save you one adjustment. Then mess with the revolver in all positions to get a feel for how much adjustment it gives you, settle on the one you like the best. If its still not handling go to the front and start there. Of course this is all after the intial 200 mile ride and you checked all the bolts for proper TQ and your track tension is spot on.
Shane
Expert
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2015 Ski-Doo 800 XRS Renegade
2012 Ski-Doo 600 ace
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2007 Polaris Dragon 120
kinger said:About all you can do is try different revolver setting still you like it.
I have my GYTR's shocks on the sofests preload and its too soft I get massive ski lift, I am going t tighten 6 turns from full loose and try that I would do the same for you.
To set pre-load a process I use and reccomend is sit on it and with your weight get 1/2" drop, keep changing the preload till you get that then LEAVE it. Dont look for 2" like a normal sled that takes you out of the cushy soft zone of the shock and into the anti bottom zone aka stiff. That will save you one adjustment. Then mess with the revolver in all positions to get a feel for how much adjustment it gives you, settle on the one you like the best. If its still not handling go to the front and start there. Of course this is all after the intial 200 mile ride and you checked all the bolts for proper TQ and your track tension is spot on.
Convential thought has been that when you tighten up the pre-load on the front springs you add ski pressure. However, many are talking (including Dennis Boivin) that you want the A-Arms to be parallel with the ground for flatest handling by softening up the pre-load up front. In your experience you have found that this causes increased ski lift? I want to be certain that I am understanding you correctly. Thanks
Anyone else running the ZX2 with coil over front shocks?
kinger
VIP Member
I read that parallel is the best but actually we had a vector that couldn't corner to save its soul we tightened the preload all the way in small increments and it worked wonders.
With the ZX2 I cannot get my a arms level, I may have some balance issues. I coudl be wrong wont knwo till I get out there and play with it. we need some snow!!!
With the ZX2 I cannot get my a arms level, I may have some balance issues. I coudl be wrong wont knwo till I get out there and play with it. we need some snow!!!
Shane
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kinger said:I read that parallel is the best but actually we had a vector that couldn't corner to save its soul we tightened the preload all the way in small increments and it worked wonders.
With the ZX2 I cannot get my a arms level, I may have some balance issues. I coudl be wrong wont knwo till I get out there and play with it. we need some snow!!!
Very interesting. I will keep you posted on how it goes once I can begin doing some more testing. Right now we lost all the great snow we had!
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had my front end lowered when I had mono in. Without changing anything with my front end, the front raised considerably after the 136 ZX-2 install. The only way I can see it getting lowered would be to pull the limiter straps up somehow or to have the suspension compressed a couple inches somehow with rider weight. I'm sure we'll figure out a way. I to need snow to do more testing. I love the way it takes the big bumps so I'll take some compromise if I have to.
Dan
Dan
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Member NytroYK have been running his ZX-2 with the limiter in the middle position with great success. It added a lot more pressure to the skis and did lowering CG some. He have about 500 miles or 800 kms on it and did recommend it. I have adjusted mine to the middle, will go riding this weekend to see how she runs, I'll let you know.
Shane
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rxrider,
How did it work out with the adjustment? It says in the manual to NOT move the limiter on the 121 and 136 versions and I confirmed thid with Dennis Boivin himself. However, I found that I too would like to tighten the limiter up one hole. Does this sacrifice performance of the suspension? How is the handling?
Thanks,
Shane
How did it work out with the adjustment? It says in the manual to NOT move the limiter on the 121 and 136 versions and I confirmed thid with Dennis Boivin himself. However, I found that I too would like to tighten the limiter up one hole. Does this sacrifice performance of the suspension? How is the handling?
Thanks,
Shane
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
anybody running a stiffer 13mm swaybar? I think this might be whats needed with the new suspension combination.
Dan
Dan
Shane
Expert
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Dano said:anybody running a stiffer 13mm swaybar? I think this might be whats needed with the new suspension combination.
Dan
Yup. It needs more.
kinger
VIP Member
I am running the 13mm bar with my set up. Too little testing to tell but will know more after my trip at the end of the month.
rxrider posted on the limit strap adjustment and loved it.
rxrider posted on the limit strap adjustment and loved it.
Shane
Expert
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- 2014 YAMAHA VIPER LTX SE
2015 Ski-Doo 800 XRS Renegade
2012 Ski-Doo 600 ace
2010 Ski-Doo 600 e-tec GTX Limited
2007 Polaris Dragon 120
kinger said:I am running the 13mm bar with my set up. Too little testing to tell but will know more after my trip at the end of the month.
rxrider posted on the limit strap adjustment and loved it.
I know, my only concern is that Boivin says NOT to tighten the limiter. Not sure what I am going to do. I do agree it NEEDS it tightened badly.
kinger
VIP Member
Mee to I am not tightening till I feel its a last resort. My sled seems to handle ok but its all new so I have to start over on suspension adjustment. The front is far from dialed in and the rear is still beaking in, I have a brand new track, etc. Just need to log some miles and keep note of changes I make till I get it where I want.
Shane
Expert
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2012 Ski-Doo 600 ace
2010 Ski-Doo 600 e-tec GTX Limited
2007 Polaris Dragon 120
I have the suspension broken in. I have tried a bunch of things, but I found that when I let the front down even to just above having the A-Arms parallel with the ground that 2 things occur. First when letting off the gas into a turn although it does help to plant the fron end, there is a lot of pitch or diving of the front end. The second being that I have sacrificed travel. I tightened up on the dampening of the Ohlins shocks but it still hits a bit hard on the big bumps. I think that I may tighten the limiter and go back to stock settings on the revolver, set the pre-load at 3 or 4 and tighten up on the pre-load up front. Tomorrow will be a test and tune day for sure. Probably won't be spending much time with my buddies, OR they are going to be VERY unhappy with me when I keep stopping and trying different things.
stoutner
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Shane,
I think you are going to have to lower the front shocks until your arms are parallel like we talked about. When you do this, you give up travel and it bottoms out easily because your preload is way low.
Just for kicks, maybe you could try to set your preload on your front shocks/springs where you like it and strap down the front shocks until your arms are parallel. Strap 'em down like some of the drag racing guys do That way, you would eliminate the bottoming out problem. You would just lose travel. I know this is stupid but I'll bet it would ride pretty nice.
...or, you could just lean a little
I think you are going to have to lower the front shocks until your arms are parallel like we talked about. When you do this, you give up travel and it bottoms out easily because your preload is way low.
Just for kicks, maybe you could try to set your preload on your front shocks/springs where you like it and strap down the front shocks until your arms are parallel. Strap 'em down like some of the drag racing guys do That way, you would eliminate the bottoming out problem. You would just lose travel. I know this is stupid but I'll bet it would ride pretty nice.
...or, you could just lean a little
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