Handwarmer Mod - Instructions & Schematics

Why go open face when u can get a Modular style n never need a cord. The open face is just cold.
I bought a BV2S and its an amazing helmet.
 
Finally got a chance to test em out today - we got enough snow to completely cover the yard last night and I was able to put about 18 kms on the old girl.

Handwarmers worked great!! Nice n toasty - just like my SXR!!!

I was able to keep rpms over 5000 for about a kilometer straight and they generated plenty of heat. BUT, seeing as I kept the stock circuitry, they do cool down plenty quick when the rpms drop below 4500.

Overall - I'm VERY happy with the results. I didn't have my temp gauge at home,but I will have it ready for the next time the snow comes.

too bad whatever snow we got melted as quickly as it came. :o|
 
Deadman said:
Why go open face when u can get a Modular style n never need a cord. The open face is just cold.
I bought a BV2S and its an amazing helmet.
If you think a snowcross style helmet is cold it's because you haven't got it set up right. There's absolutely no reason it should be colder then any other helmet.
 
what is the differance between the 08 nytro heated grips and a 07 phazer?? tell me why the 08 nytros dont work?? the 07 phazer will cook your hands.
why cant you get a set of phazer heater and put them on the nytro??
 
How many amps do the stock warmers draw? Just wondering so I have an idea of what size fuse I should put in.
 
BLUEBALLER: Can you please post a pic of what the grips look like when complete.

Thanks!
 
skidoots said:
what is the differance between the 08 nytro heated grips and a 07 phazer?? tell me why the 08 nytros dont work?? the 07 phazer will cook your hands.
why cant you get a set of phazer heater and put them on the nytro??
grips are the same, i used a set of these bar heaters on my sled for a while, what is different is how the power is sent to them.
the older sleds just sent power to them through a resister, you adjusted the resistor for the amount of power. the newer sleds send power to them intermittently, on for a time, off for a time. by changing the times, they change the amount of heat. the problem seems to be with the control program in the cdi box that cant seem to do this consistantly. It is not the bars, they are fine.
you could bypass the stock wiring and go right to the switch and use an on off bypass switch.
 
stock bars draw just under 4 amps.

I thought I had a pic, but can't seem to find it. Sleds at dealer right now - I'll get a pic when I get it back.
 
Doogs said:
So I should be safe with a 5 amp fuse?

If you just want to fuse the stock handwarmers, then a 5 A should work fine. If you added hotgrips like I did, then a 7.5 A will work.

What have you done to yours?
 
I ordered a set of Hotgrips. This weekend I'm gonna hack off the stockers and combine your solution with a piece of fiberglass cloth glued underneath for insulation, and some foam inside the bars. I'm gonna add a fuse because ECUs aren't cheap
 
Doogs said:
I ordered a set of Hotgrips. This weekend I'm gonna hack off the stockers and combine your solution with a piece of fiberglass cloth glued underneath for insulation, and some foam inside the bars. I'm gonna add a fuse because ECUs aren't cheap

I don't think the fiberglass cloth will fit between the bars & grips. It's pretty snug. Once you get the hotgrips, you'll see they come with a nylon insulator.

Foaming the bars is something I have been considering.

If you ride in extremely cold temps - you may want to drop the resistors down to 0.5 ohms, 10 watt. This will give 44 watts on the hotgrips & 7 amps draw on the circuit. then a 10 amp fuse would work well.

I did have favorable results the last few times I had the sled out, but I honestly haven't tested a whole day of minus 30C riding yet.

If they still aren't warm enough at those temps, I'll be taking the 1.0 ohm resistors out, and wiring in the 0.5 ohmers. At that point I'll probably add a fuse as well.

I WILL have warm hands this year, no matter what is involved to make it work.
 
I agree with you Blueballer; I spend way too much time and money on this sport that I have been doing for 30 years just to let cold hands ruin the trip. I am going to add the Hot Grips as you did through the ECU and while I am going through all that work may as well as add the Polly cartridge heaters on the inside of the bar with a direct DC hookup. I always lead so I am always waiting at stop signs for the group to catch up. From what I have read about the ECU on this site and the lack of power to the grips during idle, I want to make sure I have heat when sitting at a stop. I figure I will try running the cratridge heaters on low and then still be able to vary the temp. with the Hot grips through the stock controls.

However, the first thing I noticed about the Nytro was how narrow the handle bars are vs. the '05 Vector I was riding before. I either need to find something to extend the width of the stock bar after I cut off the hooks or go with a different handlebar. After cutting the stock bar it will only be 26 1/2" wide. Sounds like Blueballer was able to gain 2 inches by letting the Hot Grips overhand the hooks. I really dont' need hooks since I ALWAYS have two fingers on the brake and thumb on the throttle.

Anyone know of any bolt on straight extensions? or a handlebar that would work well (>28") that isn't real expensive (<$50)?

Thanks.
 
Funny you mention that, I was just looking at them. In 2007 the Apex went to the one piece with hooks. In 2006, the had a straight bar with the bolt on hooks. I can get the straight bar for about $56. I was just going to jump the the Apex forum to see if someone would give the width of the bar without the hooks.
 


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