blueironranger
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2014 Viper XTX
2009 Phazer MTX
I always give every EFI vehicle a 5 second count before attempting to start it. My Suzuki outboard actually states to to wait 3 seconds in the owners manual and my Honda 420 does too.Never heard of a car that needed to cycle fuel pump before starting. The only way you could lose pressure in fuel rail is if you have a leaky injector or a leak in line.
viper strike
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Because it wont start instantly and it cranks for a longer period if you just crank it and don't let it prime. that's what the dealer told me to do. Let it completely prime and turn off then start.I don't understand why so many people think the fuel pump has to get done cycling before starting? This motor is just like a car or street bike. How many of you cycle the fuel pump on your car before starting it?
These engines are not just like a car very different does your car go to 9000 plus rpm.
grizztracks
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Never heard of a car that needed to cycle fuel pump before starting. The only way you could lose pressure in fuel rail is if you have a leaky injector or a leak in line.
Not true. ambient temperature and engine temperature will effect pressure in the lines.... basic thermodynamics. Almost always at a cold start the fuel pump supply line will be down on pressure. The pressure drop may be small but the injectors need maximum pressure to fire properly.
viper strike
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Because it wont start instantly and it cranks for a longer period if you just crank it and don't let it prime. that's what the dealer told me to do. Let it completely prime and turn off then start.
yammitrip1
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Let's get back on track here fellas..... Let's talk reflash and if anyone here knows more info on a possible new one. Chime in.
What you guys say works for you sometime doesnt work for others. There are so many different kinds of FI systems that comparing of wether you should prime or not is crazy. Theres something wrong with the viper. Let's hope for a updated flash that cures majority of our problems
What you guys say works for you sometime doesnt work for others. There are so many different kinds of FI systems that comparing of wether you should prime or not is crazy. Theres something wrong with the viper. Let's hope for a updated flash that cures majority of our problems
grizztracks
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Let's get back on track here fellas.....
That's funny....... You say lets get back on track but you continue with the same discussion on FI systems.
Like I've said many times in the past, a simple flash of the ECU will not be the ultimate fix. There are underlying issues with this electrical system including the starter itself. A flash is a software program and nothing more so the programing that's flashed to the ECU is only as good as the system it is trying to control. If the system is flawed then the best programmer in the world can't fix it. They maybe able to fine tune it making it process information more effectively but in the end there will always be an underlying problem.
yammitrip1
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Senior Chief.
You Must have mis interpreted my statement. Let's not argue about how to start a snowmobile, to many variables. What ever which way it gets done, let's hope something can improve what we are working with.
You Must have mis interpreted my statement. Let's not argue about how to start a snowmobile, to many variables. What ever which way it gets done, let's hope something can improve what we are working with.
jeffgilbert
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i picked up the new starter relay but haven't installed it yet what is the 18 relay suppose to help with? lower voltage drop or better internals?
grizztracks
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i picked up the new starter relay but haven't installed it yet what is the 18 relay suppose to help with? lower voltage drop or better internals?
The starter relay doesn't put much of a load on the battery so my guess any improvement to it would be for better cold weather operation. That could be accomplished by sealing it better to keep moisture out and possible an improvement to the internal electromagnetic for better cold weather movement of the contacts. A solid state version of the starter relay probably would not be considered due to the high amp draw and the fact that the normal failure state of a SSR is a short circuit.
viper strike
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Exactly year to date ..how many flashes have been revamped by engineering.
Is there 4 different ones now?
Is there 4 different ones now?
snowfever27
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There's a new relay? Does anyone have the part number? I'm worried that if I ask my Yamaha dealer they will just give me a NOS relay that's been on the shelf since 2014 (they are also a BMW motorcycle dealer, so to say their customer service is 'aloof,' is an understatement).
grizztracks
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8MT-H1940-00-00
This is how the ECU part numbers have evolved for each model year of the Viper:
2014: 8JP-H591A-00-00
2015: 8JP-H591A-20-00 (replaces 8JP-H591A-10-00)
2016: 8JP-H591A-20-00 (replaces 8JP-H591A-10-00)
2017: 8JP-H591A-20-00
2018: 8JP-H591A-30-00
Correct me if I'm wrong but so far we have had a flash update in 2014 (-10), 2015 (-20) and 2016 (-30) which makes 3 revisions since the initial introduction of the Viper.
Exactly year to date ..how many flashes have been revamped by engineering.
Is there 4 different ones now?
This is how the ECU part numbers have evolved for each model year of the Viper:
2014: 8JP-H591A-00-00
2015: 8JP-H591A-20-00 (replaces 8JP-H591A-10-00)
2016: 8JP-H591A-20-00 (replaces 8JP-H591A-10-00)
2017: 8JP-H591A-20-00
2018: 8JP-H591A-30-00
Correct me if I'm wrong but so far we have had a flash update in 2014 (-10), 2015 (-20) and 2016 (-30) which makes 3 revisions since the initial introduction of the Viper.
ViperBill
Pro
My 14 has the first reflash. Still some problems starting until I replaced the spark plugs with iridium now starts immediately when hot less of an improvement cold but starts every time in the coldest weather -25f last sat outside over night. My friends with the same flash ok cold but cranks much longer on a hot start than mine. If he shuts it down with the kill switch it’s almost impossible to start hot. Sounds funny but can duplicate it every time. I always turn mine off with the key.
viper strike
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I have also noticed the difference in starting whether i stop it with kill switch and key as well. Always starts fine using the key method stopping and starting.My 14 has the first reflash. Still some problems starting until I replaced the spark plugs with iridium now starts immediately when hot less of an improvement cold but starts every time in the coldest weather -25f last sat outside over night. My friends with the same flash ok cold but cranks much longer on a hot start than mine. If he shuts it down with the kill switch it’s almost impossible to start hot. Sounds funny but can duplicate it every time. I always turn mine off with the key.
It likes to start harder if i killed it with the kill switch instead of the key weird?...
Bingo. Ever notice on all Japanese Yamahas the kill switch kills everything including starter yet on our Vipers Starter will still turn over even with kill engaged.That is a fundamental difference in wiring and I believe the source of some of the issues in addition to a very crappy tune. Especially the Map based on air temp. Its way off and even the Cold Startup map is all over the AFR range as its warming up. Those are maps that no tuner such as PCV can correct. Would need direct access like we had way back in 2000 on the Cannondales. Wish other companies would have followed their lead. That said I join MtCooler in the crank it over as fast as you turn the key and hold it for a good 3 count even if it fires right away. Two weekends ago majority of starts were two tries. This weekend 1 try everytime I believe. Why the difference? Who knows. All I know is all except 800 Cat started at -15f in morning.I have also noticed the difference in starting whether i stop it with kill switch and key as well. Always starts fine using the key method stopping and starting.
It likes to start harder if i killed it with the kill switch instead of the key weird?...
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