Heated Visors- how do they work

YammyRX1

TY 4 Stroke Master
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Milton, on
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2003 Yamaha RX-1
My visor quit on me last week and I found a broken wire but after looking at it more closely I don't understand how they work. The two wires attach to elements inside the visor but they aren't connected so where is the circuit? Is there a conductive coating on the inside of the lens?
 
Thought so. One of my sleds has killed two visors. Trying to diagnose why (2 hot wires?), but bum helmets is my immediate concern. Hairline cracks in the conductive film. Is it toast or repairable?
 
Put your $12.00 multimeter on ohms. Touch the two probes together to see that the numbers change.(continuity) Now touch the two probes to the two shiny parts on the visor plug in. (Inside and outside)If the numbers change again its good. Plug your visor and cords all together like when in use and plug into sled.. Set your $12.00 multimeter to DC volts and measure across the 2 rivets on the inside of the visor where the little elements end. While sled is running you should have about 12.5 to maybe 14.5 volts. If your voltage is not there, try it again at each cord connection back to the sled. (maybe verify fuse first). I prefer to run a separate and fused circuit right back to the battery for my visor.
Over the years most of my visor troubles have either been damaged plugins from getting bucked off or wore out cords where the pieces no longer make good contact. I have had a cheap fuse holder and fuse steer me wrong that gave me intermittent connection also. I have not experienced sleds killing visors, unless somehow you are getting high voltage. I think my wife's Polaris gets as high as 16.5v which is not an issue.
 
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Thought so. One of my sleds has killed two visors. Trying to diagnose why (2 hot wires?), but bum helmets is my immediate concern. Hairline cracks in the conductive film. Is it toast or repairable?

I've had visors go bad recently as well.. HJC's. And it's not the sleds fault. I bet they screwed up.. these visors are the HJ09's I belive.
 
Mine are CKX brand. The first bad visor had no continuity across the terminals and a hairline crack all the way along the conductive surface layer. It visually looked overheated. I haven't tested the second one yet. It was visually sparkling as it was going. I will do some more tests today. It seems to be one sled that is cooking them.

Not repairable is my guess, but super inconvenient.
 
I just went through this today. My Cat TXI helmet shield read 18 ohms. Started sled no voltage. Blown 3amp fuse on my Vector. Hopefully it doesn't blow again. Think of your shield as a mini toaster. It is supposed to be a small short that creates heat. If my fuse blows again probably time for a new shield.
 
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It’s just a killer at 150 CAD a pop and being out in the sticks nowhere near a store that sells the replacements. I will do some more testing on the electrical output from the sleds.
 
It’s just a killer at 150 CAD a pop and being out in the sticks nowhere near a store that sells the replacements. I will do some more testing on the electrical output from the sleds.

That's crazy. I thought I had it bad at $63.00 US for a new shield.
 
That's crazy. I thought I had it bad at $63.00 US for a new shield.
Well, I can usually get a discount from the local place, but still. I have to get this helmet situation pinned down to stop the bleeding!
 
Update. The voltage from the grip warmer coil was too high and needed a regulator. My bad for not testing it first.
 
Put your $12.00 multimeter on ohms. Touch the two probes together to see that the numbers change.(continuity) Now touch the two probes to the two shiny parts on the visor plug in. (Inside and outside)If the numbers change again its good. Plug your visor and cords all together like when in use and plug into sled.. Set your $12.00 multimeter to DC volts and measure across the 2 rivets on the inside of the visor where the little elements end. While sled is running you should have about 12.5 to maybe 14.5 volts. If your voltage is not there, try it again at each cord connection back to the sled. (maybe verify fuse first). I prefer to run a separate and fused circuit right back to the battery for my visor.
Over the years most of my visor troubles have either been damaged plugins from getting bucked off or wore out cords where the pieces no longer make good contact. I have had a cheap fuse holder and fuse steer me wrong that gave me intermittent connection also. I have not experienced sleds killing visors, unless somehow you are getting high voltage. I think my wife's Polaris gets as high as 16.5v which is not an issue.

I ran new fused lines to the battery on the sleds with electric start. The non electrics are getting regulators. One left to go. I think I got it cased. Thanks for the tips, I had tested out all the continuity in the visors.
 


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