YukonMP
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I don't have a 'winder but I think what I have to share still applies. Yamaha filled my 2014 MP with a 60/40 anti-freeze/water mix. Water conducts/transmits heat more efficiently than anti-freeze so an unnecessarily strong mix diminishes the efficiency of the cooling system. Of course we can't run just water but I did dilute my coolant. Another tip is to use Red Line Water Wetter to dilute the system because it further increases heat conduction at the fluid/metal interface. This is not a magic bullet for overheating, their performance claims are modest and I don't remember them exactly but maybe on the order of 10F.
krm
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I've had mine go into limp mode from running hot .Put down scratchers ,no more limp mode . T he rear snow flap is the issue .It doesn't direct snow to the track ,add an extension to it .
stevewithOCD
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2006 Apex RTX
Sounds like he's over heating in "normal" conditions. I only over heated on ice when everyone else over heated also. Air lock most likely.
BTW: Water Wetter's biggest attribute is it's anti-foaming properties. I never noticed a temp difference, but i DID notice no foam or air in coolant in the reservoir. Gotta help a little.
BTW: Water Wetter's biggest attribute is it's anti-foaming properties. I never noticed a temp difference, but i DID notice no foam or air in coolant in the reservoir. Gotta help a little.
Joe ltx-le
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If you blew a water line off. It's a good chance you may still have air in the systems
yamaha06
VIP Member
Sounds like he's over heating in "normal" conditions. I only over heated on ice when everyone else over heated also. Air lock most likely.
BTW: Water Wetter's biggest attribute is it's anti-foaming properties. I never noticed a temp difference, but i DID notice no foam or air in coolant in the reservoir. Gotta help a little.
What's the best way to get out an air lock? I don't have any extra coolant with me, could probably pick some up at a gas station, not sure if it would be comparable though.
Joe ltx-le
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Aslong as it's 50/50 and compatible with other colors.
Run the sled with the cap off. After it's hot get your buddy's to lift the front of the machine up while running and then the back.
If you can park with the nose uphill might be best.
Let its keep idling. Then put the cap on and take it for a ride.
Sometimes an air lock can be a biatch. Especially with no radiator.
If the anti freeze drops in the tank you can be pretty sure you got some out.
Run the sled with the cap off. After it's hot get your buddy's to lift the front of the machine up while running and then the back.
If you can park with the nose uphill might be best.
Let its keep idling. Then put the cap on and take it for a ride.
Sometimes an air lock can be a biatch. Especially with no radiator.
If the anti freeze drops in the tank you can be pretty sure you got some out.
yamaha06
VIP Member
If you run the sled with the cap off won't coolant go everywhere? How high do you have to lift the front and rear?Aslong as it's 50/50 and compatible with other colors.
Run the sled with the cap off. After it's hot get your buddy's to lift the front of the machine up while running and then the back.
If you can park with the nose uphill might be best.
Let its keep idling. Then put the cap on and take it for a ride.
Sometimes an air lock can be a biatch. Especially with no radiator.
If the anti freeze drops in the tank you can be pretty sure you got some out.
actionjack
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Imagine the bubble in a level. Shouldn't have to lift very high.
FWIW My Winder ONLY gets hot idling too long.
FWIW My Winder ONLY gets hot idling too long.
Joe ltx-le
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The tank shouldn't be that full that it spills out. Just be cautious.
I'm not saying way up, you just want the front to be higher then the back so that if there is air it will work out towards the tank. Get what I mean?
If it's locked somewhere you need to move it.
I'm not saying way up, you just want the front to be higher then the back so that if there is air it will work out towards the tank. Get what I mean?
If it's locked somewhere you need to move it.
Joe ltx-le
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The sled needs to be at operating temp with the thermostat open.
yamaha06
VIP Member
The tank shouldn't be that full that it spills out. Just be cautious.
I'm not saying way up, you just want the front to be higher then the back so that if there is air it will work out towards the tank. Get what I mean?
If it's locked somewhere you need to move it.
Your talking about removing the cap on the tank or the hose while doing this?
Joe ltx-le
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Tank cap. It's just popped in on o rings.
yamaha06
VIP Member
Ok ya, should I remove the hose cap while it's coke to check to make sure coolant is up to the neck? ThanksTank cap. It's just popped in on o rings.
yamaha06
VIP Member
Pulled the cap off on hose and fluid level is up to neck. Going to warm sled up and try Joes idea.
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Make sure your rad cap is completely in the tight position, there's a tab on the filler neck that the tab on the cap should rest against. We had a similar issue and found that his rad cap (filler neck cap) was not completely tight. The little handles on the cap should run parallel front to back. Also when reinstalling hood be sure not to jar the cap loose.
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