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HOLTZMAN, clutching, A/F's, etc...

87gtNOS

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Alright guys, the secret is out!!! I have nitrous and with many thanks to Terry (NOS-PRO) and a few others on here for taking time to answer my questions. I have played with nitrous for about 10 years in my Mustang. Never had a problem and always had fun!!! So I have an idea how it all works and the dynamics of various systems...

I have a lot to post about....fittings, clutching, bottle filling, wiring, relays, TPS switches, spark plugs....etc...I hope I can remember everything....

The REASONS for HOLTZMAN, IMO....
Well, I like simplicity. This kit looks basic. There are no electronic controllers, or fuel pumps, or bottle heaters, etc...
The kit has the following parts. Bottle, 2 nitrous nozzles, ONE solenoid controls fuel and nitrous, and some little fuel nipples, a needle valve, a button, and a T for the fuel line.
Holtzman uses a patented nitrous nozzle that will only spray a certain amount of nitrous, no matter what the bottle pressure is. SO it can be -20 or +75f and these nozzles will spray the same VOLUME of nitrous per second. Seeing as this is how it works, that then means that even when the bottle is low, and you still have 300+ psi in it, you will have a CONSISTANT shot!! YOU DON'T NEED A BOTTLE WARMER!!
Operation is simple. Adjust the fuel screw out to the recommended starting point (NOTE: I actually went 8 turns to start to be extra safe) and turn on the bottle and hold the heck on!


WIRING the kit...
I have now done two kits. Both started out the same, but mine had some extra goodies added....we'll get to that later on.
First thing to do is buy a BOSCH relay and a TOGGLE switch(preferably lighted) to act as your ARMING system. Without this, the system will always be armed...also buy a fuse holder and 15amp fuse.
I tapped into the 12v side of the cigarette lighter to power the swtich and turn on the relay. NOTE: this then makes sure that the only way you can hit the nitrous is with the sled running. The lighter socket only has power when the sled is running!!
The fuse lead needs to go to positive on the battery. The other side to the relay terminal #30. The power coming from the toggle switch will go to terminal 85. Terminal 86 is grounded. Terminal 87 will then go to the nitrous/fuel solenoid. When you flip the toggle switch, the relay will allow power to go to the solenoid...however nothing will happen until you hit the button! Next the other wire from the solenoid will go to one of the thumb buttons wires and the other button wire will be grounded. DONE!!


FUEL SYSTEM....
This is a part that I am somewhat picky about...even had made some calls to Barry about this. You have to cut the main fuel line and install a compression fitting that has a tiny T in it!! BE FRIKKIN CAREFUL!! I slipped with my wrenches and broke the TINY T. When tightening the compression fitting tighten it only 1/2 turn past finger tight. Then I connected the feeder line to the solenoid. WHY? So I could now turn on the key (NOT start the sled) and let the fuel pump prime the system. Check for leaks on the fitting...fuel is oily, and will leave a residue on your finger. I rub my finger all over the brass fitting and then look at my finger, you'll see fuel. If you do, give the ends a SLIGHT more turn tighter and wipe the fuel and turn the key on again, etc...I like to check this again even after I am done everything else!
Nothing will touch or disturb the fuel fitting you are installing...it is away from anything else.


Solenoids.....
I mounted it on to the frame bolt that is just above and behind the primary clutch when looking at it about 11 oclock there is a bolt there.

NOZZLES...
Based on where I put the solenoid, I was able to run the nitrous lines to the nozzles and be able to just unbolt the nozzle 'mounting' nuts and drop the nozzles below the airbox for airbox removal. There is lots of room under it to guide the nozzles up into their holes in the airbox. I put the fuel valve just beside the air temp sensor in the airbox. It only takes about an extra minute to remove my airbox.


Well, that was a lot of typing!!
I am running NGK R0373A-10 spark plugs in my sled and I would recommend at least putting in CR10EK plugs.
I also bought a NGK WIDEBAND O2 setup with digital guage to monitor A/F ratios while playing with the nitrous. I wired it with a toggle switch also so I could turn it off when trail riding. WOT on the trail it reads 12.2 to 1
Another thing I am experimenting with is a Knocksensor. Here is a post on a bike site I belong to, I am not sure if you can see the pics on there..http://www.zx-12r.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=492485#492485
here is VIDEO of the gauges, ignore the air filter! http://media.putfile.com/APEX-teaser--2


NOW the EXTRA stuff!!!
On my sled it is wired differently because I am using a ZEX TPS switch. The ZEX switch is a WOT switch that hooks up the yellow TPS wire and senses when you are at FULL throttle. It learns it and doesn't forget it until you reprogram it! So I have no thumb button!!! It simply activates the nitrous once you are at 95% WOT!!! This is why I have a lighted ARMING switch!! Here are the instructions for the ZEX http://www.zex.com/Base/Instructions/ZEX137.pdf



Well, I did get to do some preliminary testing of the nitrous with my already underrevving stock clutching parts....my sled revs to 9800 then 10200 and works it's way up to 10400. ON the nitrous I rolled on the throttle to about 9700rpm and 'whacked' the flipper WOT!! WOW INSTANT 11000 rpms!! A/F went to 11.2 to 1, which is fantastic. I can lean it out somemore!! Can't wait for ice!!
TESTING VID http://media.putfile.com/preliminary-tests

For clutching I am gonna use all DALTON components. His new DPYR weights are awesome! I am gonna use a base weight of 66gr...those of you without nitrous use 62. 53-45 helix, the new RED secondary spring and his RED primary spring. This will be my baseline to see where it revs at on the motor. I hope for around 10200 or 10300 on the motor with it hitting those rpms instantly. That should then still feel great on the trail for OFF nitrous use!


BOTTLE FILLING...
Simple!! Takes 2 seconds! I bought a car sized 10lb bottle and a 2 foot hose. Connect the warm big bottle to the 'snowbank cold' little bottle and open the little bottle. I have digital fish scales to weigh the little bottle. I then give the big bottle a quick crack of the valve and instantly it fills the little bottle!!! haha!!

Wow, that's a big post. I am sure I forgot some stuff, so I will just add new posts when I think of it!





SORRY I HAVE NO PICS...I WILL GET SOME THIS WEEKEND and try to post them after XMAS.

:nos
 

DoktorC

TY 4 Stroke Master
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Parry Sound, Ontario
Man...you've been holding it in for too long!!! It all came out at once!!

Where's PTM???? I told him it wasn't a Turbo!!! I guess that just means there's ANOTHER sled out there to worry about...:).
 

NOS-PRO

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Jonathon, you are welcome, .... and I have been enjoying your teaser videos.

I have a system to install this weekend, and another next week, which will be just like your system. I have found the 2 lb. bottles with the side open/close knob fits in the seat compartment with a little trimming. At least if the bottle in front runs out, ya got a spare.

Glad i could help out, and if you or any members have any questions, please let me know.
 

87gtNOS

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NOS-PRO said:
I have a system to install this weekend, and another next week, which will be just like your system. I have found the 2 lb. bottles with the side open/close knob fits in the seat compartment with a little trimming. At least if the bottle in front runs out, ya got a spare.

I actually ordered a second bottle from Hotlzman this week. The spare bottle will fit in the truck perfectly!!


I orginally thought long and hard about bottle placement...should it go up front or in the trunk?!! I went with the front in order to keep the feed line SHORT! Every extra bit of nitrous is a bonus!! So no trunk mounting for me!

And BEEEVER's kit went in smoothly. His had the newer SINGLE solenoid for both fuel and nitrous, whereas mine has a solenoid for each.
 

ejcamaro

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Lol, whew, I hate secrets, now I can tell people about your Zex tps switch!!! It was hard not sharing your testing video you sent me!!

I'll be contacting you about the zex switch and your A/F gauge this spring, its too late in the season for me to tear back into my sled, but I really like your setup.
 

87gtNOS

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ejcamaro said:
I'll be contacting you about the zex switch and your A/F gauge this spring, its too late in the season for me to tear back into my sled, but I really like your setup.

That TPS switch should take you an hour to wire up! Ofcourse you gotta yank out the airbox, etc!! So maybe it will take longer! But it works really good!! ALOTTA FUN!! :Rockon:
 

ejcamaro

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I have my power switched, and I see that the zex controller needs the ground switched, so I would have to rewire everything, thats the only reason I'm gonna wait. I'll order it just after the holidays just to have it ready.
 

stoutner

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Guys,

You might have to install 10 amp fuse in the AC fuse slot. The factory fuse is 3 amp and mine blew after about the 10th hit of the nitrous solenoid. Of course I did have heated sheild on same circuit and also use the plug outlet for GPS sometimes. I'm not sure but I think my heated shield draws a couple of amps and the solenoid probably draws 1 or 2.

P.S. Nice ride Jonathan....I knew you had NOS long ago huh?
 

87gtNOS

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stoutner said:
Guys,

You might have to install 10 amp fuse in the AC fuse slot. The factory fuse is 3 amp and mine blew after about the 10th hit of the nitrous solenoid. Of course I did have heated sheild on same circuit and also use the plug outlet for GPS sometimes. I'm not sure but I think my heated shield draws a couple of amps and the solenoid probably draws 1 or 2.

P.S. Nice ride Jonathan....I knew you had NOS long ago huh?

I am about to post up my wiring diagrams....I ran the solenoid POWER irght off the battery and the power for the relay off the cigar lighter (except on BEEVER's, his is all off the battery).
 

kinger

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Nice post, more detail then were used to seeing which is a good thing.

My solenoids are wired to a switch mounted on the carbs and work at WOT only after its armed, much better solution then hitting a button. Time to go hunting this winter!

Please start snowing.....
 

87gtNOS

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Here are 2 of my wiring diagrams..
 

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87gtNOS

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and the ZEX switch diagram, note that there is NO relay required!!
 

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NOS-PRO

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Just awesome Jonathon!
 


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