stuckless316
Extreme
Just doing some mods right now that I didn't get to last yr!
Put a Water temp gauge, tether cord .... anyways I have a new set of spark plugs that I ordered and never got to it last yr. Now that I have my gas tank off I wanted to put them in. But I came to a stumbling block and don't want to break anything. How do I get to my spark plugs (I come from the old 2 stock where u just pop the cap off and take out the plugs), but this engine is different.
Any instructions are welcome, it is probably as easy but want to make sure I don't break anything.
Put a Water temp gauge, tether cord .... anyways I have a new set of spark plugs that I ordered and never got to it last yr. Now that I have my gas tank off I wanted to put them in. But I came to a stumbling block and don't want to break anything. How do I get to my spark plugs (I come from the old 2 stock where u just pop the cap off and take out the plugs), but this engine is different.
Any instructions are welcome, it is probably as easy but want to make sure I don't break anything.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
It will be a breeze without the gas tank on.
Disconnect the wire going to the plug - best to do this one wire at a time so you won't get them mixed up. Then twist and pull straight up on the oversized plug boot. They can be tough to remove, the twisting helps. The boot contains an ignition coil so take care to pull straight up and not bend the unit when you're tugging on them.
The plugs are deep in the valve cover. It will work best if you have a socket that will capture the plug and lift it out of the hole when it comes free of the head.
Disconnect the wire going to the plug - best to do this one wire at a time so you won't get them mixed up. Then twist and pull straight up on the oversized plug boot. They can be tough to remove, the twisting helps. The boot contains an ignition coil so take care to pull straight up and not bend the unit when you're tugging on them.
The plugs are deep in the valve cover. It will work best if you have a socket that will capture the plug and lift it out of the hole when it comes free of the head.
FJR1300
Expert
Pretend you're on the trail and use your tool kit. If you find you don't like whats in the kit, then its time to replace those tools with ones that will work.
A rachet, 10-12-14 mm sockets and wrenches
A rachet, 10-12-14 mm sockets and wrenches
stuckless316
Extreme
Thanks for the help Arteeex.
FJR, after I installed the plugs I looked to see if I could fit my hand between the tank and where the plugs are...not a chance. Especially where you have to push down on those boots pretty hard to make sure they sit tightly on top of the plugs.
So for me I will be taking the tank off every time I have to do that (which I am hoping not very often).
FJR, after I installed the plugs I looked to see if I could fit my hand between the tank and where the plugs are...not a chance. Especially where you have to push down on those boots pretty hard to make sure they sit tightly on top of the plugs.
So for me I will be taking the tank off every time I have to do that (which I am hoping not very often).
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
I've got about 13,000 miles on various Yamaha 4-strokes. Apex, Phazer, Nytro. None of which required a spark plug change, on hte trail or off for that matter. You've got the temp gauge now, just let it warm to about 140 before moving, don't start it up, move it 10 feet and shut it down the second it stops, basically just let it idle down before shutting it down and you'll be fine. Trailside plug changing is certainly not something to worry about.
stuckless316
Extreme
I actually didn't need to change my plugs, I just ordered CR10EK plugs from Ulmer when I got a few other things from him. Only ordered them because I heard they give you a few more Hp, and just trying them for curiosity sake!
Still got the other ones for back up!
Still got the other ones for back up!
