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How to tell if Vector is an LTX?

jboutdoorguy

Newbie
Joined
Dec 3, 2019
Messages
3
Age
47
Location
North WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2012 Yamaha Vector
1995 Yamaha Venture
2002 Yamaha Viper
Yesterday I bought a 2012 Vector LTX. While I was looking for this model sled I could not for the life of me find any info on how to identify if it was an LTX or not. I do not see decals that say so or anything. So how is an untrained eye going to know if the sled has a 136" track? I thought the tunnel extension past the seat was how and maybe it is for this vintage but my parents have a 2016 Vector with the 128" track and that has the extended tunnel. I searched serial number and couldn't find out. I have owners manual and see it is for Vector and Venture. For Vector it has RS90PB and RS90PGTB? Sounds like that would have good info but I cant find anything online saying what these models mean.

I noticed the far back heat exchanger above the track is in very bad shape. It looks like the studs in the track got to it but I don't see how they could reach there? Can anyone comment on that?

Is there anything I might want to pay special attention to on this sled? I haven't rode much the past number of years and am stepping up from my 2002 Viper that has treated me awesome with 9,400 miles.
 

If yours is as 2012 and it has a tunnel extension with a large rear cooler mounted to it on inside then it is definitely the ltx 136. In 2012 the std 121" vector did not have any tunnel extension.

In 16 when Yamaha came out with the single shot skid in 129 they kept using the same 136 extension.
 
Yes it's an LTX if it's got the heat exchanger in the rear as you describe.

Yes studs will hit it if no tunnel protection is installed. A couple short sections of hyfax riveted to the existing aluminum "protectors" works good.
 
Yes it's an LTX if it's got the heat exchanger in the rear as you describe.

Yes studs will hit it if no tunnel protection is installed. A couple short sections of hyfax riveted to the existing aluminum "protectors" works good.
Catman can you post up your awesome setup for the suspension for this lucky guy ?? All I can say about the 2012 is set up the suspension . Maybe check the toe on your skis and spend the money for Snowtracker Carbides and grease every zert and check fluids. Then go put 5000 miles on and repeat the process!! Enjoy your new sled . Almost forgot the soft start spring from Travis at Barn of Parts is a great add on ...
 
I'll cliff note the suspension setup since he has no reservoir front shocks.

1. Jack front end up off ground. Loosen the front shocks to zero preload. Tighten the adjuster & lock collar just enough so the springs can't/don't rattle.

2. Set the distance on the transfer rod to 1 1 1/8" as measured between the slotted collars.

3. Set the rear Monoshock preload to the middle cam setting. If the 2012 doesn't have a cam(as I'm not sure) then set it as close to middle of threads on the preload adjuster as possible. I know my wife's '15 is threaded, but my '10 is cam. Not sure when Yamaha switched.

4. Start with the clicker on the rear shock at 3 clicks from full soft. In other words, open the valve all the way, and turn back in 3 clicks. This will vary based on your weight and more so trail conditions. But start with 3.

5. Get some Snotrackers as DGZRT said, or my personal preference are these.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/182209721000

Unless someone swapped to the Tuner skis, and if so, use 6" inside & outside
 
Thanks for all the info guys. If i rivet some pieces of hyfax to the existing tunnel protectors how long should they be? Start from the far back and go 12" forward?
 
There is a whole thread dedicated to the subject. Look at the stickys at the top of the RS General forum. It say : Anyone who studded a 2010 Vector . Lots of reading and good ideas on installing the needed protection.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. If i rivet some pieces of hyfax to the existing tunnel protectors how long should they be? Start from the far back and go 12" forward?
You should see an area in front of cooler where alum straightens back out,I started here&went just past the cooler,the pieces of slider I used where tapered on the forward edge,if not I would grind a taper to ease transition,drill counter sunk holes&bolt in place,I used stainless to prevent rust&nylon lock nuts to assure they wouldn't loosen up.
 

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I have a Vector LTX with stock tuner skis and started using 8" Snowstuds (made in Wi) magnum carbides both inside and out on both sides last season and they worked really well. I don't have studs and I didn't feel it was to aggressive. These have good prices also compared to many other brands.
 


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