Hyfax: wide or narrow?

Grimm said:
I think the best way to determine whether a narrow slide is longer lasting than a wider slide is to put one of each on your sled.

I couldn't agree more. I don't know much about Ventures, but if indeed the sleds have two different types of skids and track lengths, then that one experience does not constitute a conclusive test IMO. With idler wheels in different locations, plus a different distribution of weight across the longer/shorter slides, etc.

Grimms suggestion above definitely would be a valid test however.

If I discover my Attak has a hyfax wear problem, I will very strongly consider the idea Grimm presents here so I can make a determination on which is better. I've always been curious about a comparison with the graphite impregnated slides also.

If anyone out there is needing to replace their hyfax, please consider these types of experiments and report your results. I probably won't, because I frankly doubt I'll need to replace mine before I sell the sled, but time will tell.

For what it's worth, Doo's hyfax have always been so wide that they completely cover the track windows. And I've had several Doo's go past 10,000 miles, and have NEVER had to replace a hyfax on one.
 
craze1cars said:
I've always been curious about a comparison with the graphite impregnated slides also.

I have used the graphite slides from Yamaha 4-5 times. IMHO they dont last any longer.

The $150 hyperfax teflon inserted ones do last longer if you were melting regular ones due to heat-friction.

They do not last any longer if wear is caused by abrasives, low snow conditions, or in other words 'snirt'.
 
Hyfax profile number

The wide slides for the Apex is a Profile 27, to use the narrow slides, is the Profile # 20 correct?
 
ReX said:
Yamahammer485 said:
ReX said:
Superior for obvious reasons??

What's wrong with the new wide design that has been used on all the new Yamaha's since 2005?

The thing about the new wider slides and narrower track windows is that they both work together to keep snow/water/lube off your sliders, and they melt more. Its a new trend in camoplast tracks for the narrower windows, and it doesnt work with the wider sliders, as evident by the constant claims of people mentioning all the melted plastic they find on the windows, as they are cutting them out.

If you put on the narrower slides, you will DEFINATELY have better slider wear, than with the stock ones.

You say you have proof that they work better. I put 10,000 kms (6000 miles) on my first set of wide hyfax. My next set got toasted in 100 miles due to cracked slide rails and missing idler wheels so I don't consider that typical.

On my third set of wide hyfax I put 6500 km (4100 miles) and there was still lots left (I changed them even though they really didn't need changing prior to a 3500 km snowmobile trip). After 3500 km (2000 miles) on my third set of wide hyfax they are still in extremely good condition.

I know some guys who have tried the narrow ones and they do seem to heat less at first, but once the wide ones get worn in, in my experience, they last a very, very long time.

I rode in quite a lot of very marginal conditions also with all sets of hyfax once they were broken in (except for the toasted ones).

Have you tried putting wide and narrow ones on identical sleds and riding them on identical trails until the hyfax is worn right down to the wear line? I suspect the wide ones will last longer but I have no proof.

In my experience if you tighten the idler wheels in the lowest position (lift the sled or skid while tightening them), break the hyfax in on good snow conditions for about 500 miles (making sure you keep them cool by dipping into snow as required) and don't change them until the wear line (10.5 mm), the wide hyfax seem to last for a huge number of miles.

can you explain in detail the lowering of the idler wheels to the lowest position????
 
I just put on a set of graphite. I will report back throughout the season.
 
sj said:
can you explain in detail the lowering of the idler wheels to the lowest position????

If you loosen off an idler wheel a little on the monoshock skid (most skids for that matter) you'll find you can move it up and down by something like 3/16" (guess). If you tighten it up while holding it up, it stays there. Also if you tighten it up while holding it down it stays there. Because the wheel assembly is so light it's easy while tightening it to inadvertently move it up.
 
good point...you cousin's to the north know the tricks... ;)!
 
ReX said:
sj said:
can you explain in detail the lowering of the idler wheels to the lowest position????

If you loosen off an idler wheel a little on the monoshock skid (most skids for that matter) you'll find you can move it up and down by something like 3/16" (guess). If you tighten it up while holding it up, it stays there. Also if you tighten it up while holding it down it stays there. Because the wheel assembly is so light it's easy while tightening it to inadvertently move it up.
What if you shaved 2 mm off the mount where it sits on the rail. Would that lower the wheel an extra 2 mm?
 
SledFreak said:
What if you shaved 2 mm off the mount where it sits on the rail. Would that lower the wheel an extra 2 mm?

If you shaved the right areas it would (might have to shave the groove also), but why would you want to? Also, over many 1000's of miles I've noticed the wheels sometimes slowly work their way up a little, not always though (maybe I didn't have them tight enough).

If you want extra I would install Polaris wheels. They are about 5mm larger so you get an extra 2.5mm of "push" away from the hyfax.
 


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