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Hygear Triple Springs

LeeKo said:
The tender spring is just to set ride height and not meant to support the weight of the vehicle. I have found the Nytro to be very sensitive to front-end ride height. Too much preload and the steering effort increases substantially. The handling also improves with the lower front end height.

Although, I fear there is a compromise with the lower ride height. I have the trail pro package and I still have to really crank the hi-speed and low speed compression up to control bottoming.

I think the triple rate springs are the hot ticket for trail riding a nytro. If you like to bang the bumps the stock valving will likely not cut it. I haven't found the ultimate setup yet but I am getting closer. I am not sure if I need more spring or another re-valve.

Badsled,

How do you like your dual rate springs?

I run a TR spring kit. Had I known better I would order a dual rate at thats all that's needed.
 

stopdropanroll said:
LeeKo said:
The tender spring is just to set ride height and not meant to support the weight of the vehicle. I have found the Nytro to be very sensitive to front-end ride height. Too much preload and the steering effort increases substantially. The handling also improves with the lower front end height.

Although, I fear there is a compromise with the lower ride height. I have the trail pro package and I still have to really crank the hi-speed and low speed compression up to control bottoming.

I think the triple rate springs are the hot ticket for trail riding a nytro. If you like to bang the bumps the stock valving will likely not cut it. I haven't found the ultimate setup yet but I am getting closer. I am not sure if I need more spring or another re-valve.

Badsled,

How do you like your dual rate springs?


They did a spot on job with my front shocks, never bottom and soak up the studders, nor are they maxed out. The rear is what I am going to have to have valved stiffer, I just cant seem to find the sweet spot and I think part of it lies in the torsion springs.....thier just too soft for me, even with x-clicks on full they dont do what I want. Looking for the bumpability my F7 SP had in that rear skid, that thing NEVER bottomed.

I weigh 200lbs and I am running the torsion spacers and I have my torsion adjusments on full soft. I have Ohlins 46mm rear shocks and they are completely bad arse. I have actually taken out all the low speed and high speed compression from the rear shock to help on the trail chatter. I also run all the rebound dampening out too. They are just awesome, if they bottom it is just a kiss (hardly notice) where my front end is more of a clank.

I picked up in the Ohlins manual that you should measure 17 mm showing on the control rods while sitting on the sled. If you are not set there your spring may be off. I am extremely happy how this sled is working but I am a perfectionist when it comes to dialing in suspension and have a call into Ross(Hygear) for some further assistance on the fronts.

I still believe the TR spring are the answer to the handling of this sled. My sled is absolute monster in the corners and bumps.
 
SledFreak said:
stopdropanroll said:
LeeKo said:
The tender spring is just to set ride height and not meant to support the weight of the vehicle. I have found the Nytro to be very sensitive to front-end ride height. Too much preload and the steering effort increases substantially. The handling also improves with the lower front end height.

Although, I fear there is a compromise with the lower ride height. I have the trail pro package and I still have to really crank the hi-speed and low speed compression up to control bottoming.

I think the triple rate springs are the hot ticket for trail riding a nytro. If you like to bang the bumps the stock valving will likely not cut it. I haven't found the ultimate setup yet but I am getting closer. I am not sure if I need more spring or another re-valve.

Badsled,

How do you like your dual rate springs?


They did a spot on job with my front shocks, never bottom and soak up the studders, nor are they maxed out. The rear is what I am going to have to have valved stiffer, I just cant seem to find the sweet spot and I think part of it lies in the torsion springs.....thier just too soft for me, even with x-clicks on full they dont do what I want. Looking for the bumpability my F7 SP had in that rear skid, that thing NEVER bottomed.

Did you try the torsion spacers?

Yep, got them too.
 
LeeKo said:
[
I weigh 200lbs and I am running the torsion spacers and I have my torsion adjusments on full soft. I have Ohlins 46mm rear shocks and they are completely bad arse. I have actually taken out all the low speed and high speed compression from the rear shock to help on the trail chatter. I also run all the rebound dampening out too. They are just awesome, if they bottom it is just a kiss (hardly notice) where my front end is more of a clank.

I picked up in the Ohlins manual that you should measure 17 mm showing on the control rods while sitting on the sled. If you are not set there your spring may be off. I am extremely happy how this sled is working but I am a perfectionist when it comes to dialing in suspension and have a call into Ross(Hygear) for some further assistance on the fronts.

I still believe the TR spring are the answer to the handling of this sled. My sled is absolute monster in the corners and bumps.


I will be in contact with them when the season is officially over.
 
Front springs went on in like 15mins... Sled is alot more stable now in the corners and I have not done any adjustments to suspension yet.

Installing the dual rate spring for the rear center shock was alot more difficult than I expected. I spent three hours trying to remove it. I cannot get the bolt outta the bottom of the shock as there is a wheel in the way. (BTW Ive never wrenched on anything before I bought this sled and this is my first one so pls bare with me.) Do I need to remove that wheel assembly or am I missing something?
 
NMainiac said:
Front springs went on in like 15mins... Sled is alot more stable now in the corners and I have not done any adjustments to suspension yet.

Installing the dual rate spring for the rear center shock was alot more difficult than I expected. I spent three hours trying to remove it. I cannot get the bolt outta the bottom of the shock as there is a wheel in the way. (BTW Ive never wrenched on anything before I bought this sled and this is my first one so pls bare with me.) Do I need to remove that wheel assembly or am I missing something?

Yes, you have to remove the wheels, but for 4 bolts, the skid comes out. Get a buddy to help you and you are good to go...
 
stopdropanroll said:
LeeKo said:
The tender spring is just to set ride height and not meant to support the weight of the vehicle. I have found the Nytro to be very sensitive to front-end ride height. Too much preload and the steering effort increases substantially. The handling also improves with the lower front end height.

Although, I fear there is a compromise with the lower ride height. I have the trail pro package and I still have to really crank the hi-speed and low speed compression up to control bottoming.

I think the triple rate springs are the hot ticket for trail riding a nytro. If you like to bang the bumps the stock valving will likely not cut it. I haven't found the ultimate setup yet but I am getting closer. I am not sure if I need more spring or another re-valve.

Badsled,

How do you like your dual rate springs?


They did a spot on job with my front shocks, never bottom and soak up the studders, nor are they maxed out. The rear is what I am going to have to have valved stiffer, I just cant seem to find the sweet spot and I think part of it lies in the torsion springs.....thier just too soft for me, even with x-clicks on full they dont do what I want. Looking for the bumpability my F7 SP had in that rear skid, that thing NEVER bottomed.

What I'm looking to cure is the pitching the sled does when you hit the stutter bumps. The stock front shocks and spring calibration just does not do a good job. I want my sled to be able to ride like a march mellow in the small stutters, but still be able to take the big hits. I also want it to know if the dual rate springs lowers the front end as much as the TR springs. Will the sport package do this for me? Or can I go with Sport package with the TR springs. I don't think I need the trail pro package or sport X package.
 
Andy - Keep in mind Nytro does not have any where near as much seat cushion as Apex models we were both used to. TR or DR springs will allow for more comfortable ride then current setup. Hygear re-valve should take it to another level.
 
Ya I didnt really get anything either I had to call to get an idea of how the old come off and the new tr springs go on. I jacked the sled up in the front so the skis are off the ground then screwed out all the preload from the stock springs. Then I took the top and bottom mounting bolts off the shocks and removed the shocks completly so I could work on them easier (prolly dont have to take them off all the way you could just take the top mounting bolt off). Then you unscrew the rebound knob off the bottom of the shock. At the top of the spring there is a spacer that should come right off and the spring just slides out and the new one slides right in. I hope I didnt make that confusing lol. I dont do much mechanically but this was way easy for me once the Hygear tech told me to screw out all the preload from the stock spring which releases the spacer. Hope this helps.

Wait till you get them on. All this sled needs for the trail is these springs and a pair of cobras...
 
Simmering25355 said:
Does anyone have the installing instructions for tripple rate springs?
I have bought the springs but the paper is missing.

Here you go....
 

Attachments

  • Twisted Spring Instructions.pdf
    283.1 KB · Views: 120
front springs

We tried many different combinations...but the all out ultimate spring we found for the Nytro came from RCS ( Renton Coil Spring ) it's a triple rate titanium spring, all one spring. This makes the sled ride like a Cadillac, over Ohlin shocks of course. See Kyle at Renton Coil...there is a contact number on our web page under sponsors..
 

Attachments

  • shock 1.JPG
    shock 1.JPG
    62.5 KB · Views: 92


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