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Inside the QS3 Shock

Alright Steve, got some hard #s for you. First ride of 2.6 miles, the Ski QS-3 was set on position 1, bump stops well up on shaft,ended up all the way to bottomed out. Next ride of 10 miles, the shock was set to 2, this time ,bump stop had 1" of shaft left showing. Both rides took me through ditches, over hills, and I am sure the skis left the ground both times. Rode the sled into and out of the pickup today so it seems the adjustable shock is working. Next ride I will set it on 3. Have not monitored the rear yet. Stay tuned.
 

I finally had a chance to "see" the QS3's on my local dealer's showroom floor. Unfortunately, they were not set up on a Viper. My dealer sells Yamaha and Polaris, and he has a Polaris on the floor with the front QS3's. I played with the sled by putting my weight on one running board with the shocks in each of the three positions. At "1" the shocks were very soft, and the sled leaned smoothly and softly in the direction of my weight. The "2" setting made a a very noticeable difference, probably a little stiffer than what I see on my Viper and its stock coil-overs. When I put it on "3", the sled was very stiff, and seemed to barely move under all my weight. It wasn't very scientific, but I was impressed. I would love to hear some more feed back from anyone who is actually riding them.
 
Got out the old piece of glass I used to used for surfacing 2 stroke heads and walla no more defect shock and clicker now works perfectly. When this shock is out of sled on 3 I cannot hardly compress shock on 1 it easily compresses. I would say 2 is more toward soft side than hard. I dont see anyone other than a SnoX racer using hard unless trails are terrible. But its there. Still think these are going to be awesome shocks but everyone with them should make sure the clicker is actually doing something. There should be no doubt. From 1-3 is drastic change.
View attachment 111048
All ready to ship.
View attachment 111049

Position #3 is the 3000 mile rebuild. When the oil in the shock is like muddy water, click it to #3 and ride it for 1 more season.
 
These are the new ones with the 3 way clicker. Going to fix these since they are defective and clicker does nothing on one front and the rear. Member here is letting me fix them since Yamaha doesn't have parts yet.
I still really like how easy and effective the valving is on these at least when they work!

If you look closely at the clicker valve there is two holes in side. One bigger than other. When you rotate the knob it allows oil to bypass through these holes. So big one is all the way soft, small is med and no hole is stiff. The clicker click is made by the pressure in shock. So if it loses pressure it's not going to click. That's nice since otherwise some may not know if the shock is bad. The valving on the clicker is there for a real big hit. Rebound on clicker is controlled by a tiny spring. Not really liking that part. I believe the issue is there and the shim fit of it. Will confirm tomorrow.
View attachment 110991
The internals are nice. High flow piston with oring under. It uses a bleed shim like the Evol race shock rather than a bleed hole so it's easy to change bleed. Two stage valving. Good quality bumpstop. New scraper. Not a brass oringed one like used to be used but not as cheesy as our standard shocks. We will see if it keeps water out. Also has a spacer in it. So these could be lengthened easily.
View attachment 110992
View attachment 110993
Sure do appreciate opportunity to dig into a brand new set of shocks. Don't want to mention name since warranty may be affected but Thank You for trusting me. Will have them fixed for sure.
Yes nice looking shock enternals,what dia. is the shaft 1/2" or 5/8th ? And I like the 3 click setting,way better than 30 or 20 clicks of real fine stops you cant hardly feel.
 
These are the new ones with the 3 way clicker. Going to fix these since they are defective and clicker does nothing on one front and the rear. Member here is letting me fix them since Yamaha doesn't have parts yet.
I still really like how easy and effective the valving is on these at least when they work!

If you look closely at the clicker valve there is two holes in side. One bigger than other. When you rotate the knob it allows oil to bypass through these holes. So big one is all the way soft, small is med and no hole is stiff. The clicker click is made by the pressure in shock. So if it loses pressure it's not going to click. That's nice since otherwise some may not know if the shock is bad. The valving on the clicker is there for a real big hit. Rebound on clicker is controlled by a tiny spring. Not really liking that part. I believe the issue is there and the shim fit of it. Will confirm tomorrow.
View attachment 110991
The internals are nice. High flow piston with oring under. It uses a bleed shim like the Evol race shock rather than a bleed hole so it's easy to change bleed. Two stage valving. Good quality bumpstop. New scraper. Not a brass oringed one like used to be used but not as cheesy as our standard shocks. We will see if it keeps water out. Also has a spacer in it. So these could be lengthened easily.
View attachment 110992
View attachment 110993
Sure do appreciate opportunity to dig into a brand new set of shocks. Don't want to mention name since warranty may be affected but Thank You for trusting me. Will have them fixed for sure.
I know this is an old post, but how thick is the spacer and if removed, how long with the shock center to center be?
 


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