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Is This a Major Ooops?

sxr70001 said:
I did this once on a starter bolt in a 350 chevy. My grandpa just shook his head and reached in a drawer and handed me a bunch of dremel grinding bits. It took me a while, but eventually I got the ez-out dug out of there and was able to remove the bolt with a bigger ez-out. The good news it that the heat from all the grinding had loosened it up. Wear goggles!
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I may have to try the Dremel route. The allen head broke off cleanly and everything is now flush or slightly inside the bolt hole so welding anything to the existing problem would be difficult. Any tips on which bits to use?

Thankfully I have ALL summer to get the mofo out.
 

I have some drill bits that are suppose to be able to drill an easy out out. I have never used them bought them at Con-Expo in Vegas I would be more than willing to let you try one just let me know the size and where to ship it and if it works you can ship it back to me. Let me know PM me if interested.
 
Carbide drill the extractor out then drill head off flat head bolt and should spin out after.

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a carbide burr in a die grinder will cut out a easy out as well. Get one with a sharp point. If you have a mig and can get to the bolt easy I'd just weld it up till you can weld a nut onto it. Typically once you've got the nut welded on a quick zip with a impact wrench and they spin right out.
 
I may have a missed it but what part did this break on? If part is removable a machine shop with a EDM machine can burn this out. If its a through hole can you drill from the other side and then using a punch drive extractor out?
 
cannondale27 said:
I may have a missed it but what part did this break on? If part is removable a machine shop with a EDM machine can burn this out. If its a through hole can you drill from the other side and then using a punch drive extractor out?
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I didn't specifically say in my orginal, but it is off a sled for my kids. Its where the trailing arm bolts to the frame. The rubber dampener disintegrated and I am replacing it. If I could get it off the sled and take it to a machine shop I would.
 
cnybrian said:
I may have to try the Dremel route. The allen head broke off cleanly and everything is now flush or slightly inside the bolt hole so welding anything to the existing problem would be difficult. Any tips on which bits to use?

Thankfully I have ALL summer to get the mofo out.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming then the part it held has been removed. Welding a nut to a bolt is not impossible even if its inside the bolt hole. I've done this before. Weld to the bolt and build it up into the nut (inside same or close to the same size as bolt) with a wire feed. A good welder can do that. You may damage the aluminum around the top of the hole a bit but that does not matter. Heat of the welding will hopefully free the bolt.

Even if you strip the threads out completely when backing out the bolt (Thinking aluminum as I have seen where the threads in the hole strip off and come out with the bolt) that can be fixed by drilling oversize and tapping or by Helicoil. Good luck!
 
One second with a plasma cutter would blow the extractor out, then it should be east to drill.

If you can helicoil after, you can plasma the whole thing out in a couple seconds.

I have a plasma cutter that I can carry and it is 110/220v that would do it in a flash. If you don't know anyone with one, do a request on craigslist, you will probably find someone local.
 
wavemaster said:
One second with a plasma cutter would blow the extractor out, then it should be east to drill.
Click to expand...

How would the plasma cutter blow it out? I believe the bolt hole only has 1 opening.
 
cnybrian said:
How would the plasma cutter blow it out? I believe the bolt hole only has 1 opening.
Click to expand...
What sled is this on? Many it's actually a bolt with nut on backside. If not plasma cutter can be very accurate in right hands. Have seen 1/8 in pierce in 3/4 in thick steel.
 
cannondale27 said:
What sled is this on? Many it's actually a bolt with nut on backside. If not plasma cutter can be very accurate in right hands. Have seen 1/8 in pierce in 3/4 in thick steel.
Click to expand...

20 year of fan cooled Doo. Its where trailing arm is attached to chassis.
 
Ok. Yamaha the whole assembly could be replaced by drilling out rivets. Polaris has a nut on the back. Never had one off a Doo. Good luck.
 
cnybrian said:
How would the plasma cutter blow it out? I believe the bolt hole only has 1 opening.
Click to expand...

If you can touch it with a drill, you can touch it with a plasma cutter. You are trying to drill out an easy out - with the plasma cutter you would just put it up to the easy out and pull the trigger - literally not even a full second and it would be gone.

You can gouge metal out as well.
 
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