Its official!!!

FastAction

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Its official I am finally a part of the turbo elite crowd.She sits on my truck right now waiting for its first run. So I will share my setup and see what you guys think..


1- 03 rx (roughly 400kms)
2- 162x 15 track
3- hartman tunnel extension
4- mc express rear mount
5- 2 inch riser
6- powderlites rear heat exchanger
7-powderlites gauge bracket(3holes running boost and fuel pressure now a hole left for a/f)
8- 130 mains
9- 9 tooth extroverts
10- red springs
11- heavy hitters loaded at 66grams
12-o-p-o primary
13-14.4 mm rollers
13-silver secondary @80
14- 05 mtn skis
15-fuel priming switch to load the bowls (ie after rolling her lol)

was hoping to get out today for a quick ride but its looking like tomorrow now.

What about this "flame off" /stalling after the front goes up then comes down quickly kinda like the problem we had with the old float bowls.Anybody else having this problem since adding the turbo and if so is there a cure.
 
Congrats Hardcore!! Welcome to the club.

"15-fuel priming switch to load the bowls (ie after rolling her lol)" They tend to flood after rolling so I don't think you'll need it when you roll.
 
hardcore said:
What about this "flame off" /stalling after the front goes up then comes down quickly kinda like the problem we had with the old float bowls.Anybody else having this problem since adding the turbo and if so is there a cure.

Looks like a good set-up...just not to familier with heavy hitters.
The best thing I have found to help the flame out after maybe chopping the throttle under full boost is to keep your idle as high as you can,90% better right there! As far as flaming out after jumping or getting jolted,I heard the flatlanders dont have this problem so I think its something to do with to much fuel in the float bowls. I'm gonna lean my float bowls down next week and see if it helps. Oh yah, Have fun! and Hold on! :Rockon:
 
Cool,another boost pooch in the crowd.You'll not need the primer,as the electric fuel pump loads float bowls when you turn the key on.Spray,what wire did you tap into so that the fuel pump only comes on with the engine running?
 
I think my instructions said you can tie into the headlight wire at the front of the sled to power your fuel pump only when running. It will make it difficult to start when the float bowls are empty. I opted for the ignition feed and just put in a connector, so that if it's flooded I can unplug it and the pump won't run. If you're gonna use the headlight wire I would suspect you may have to use both the low & high beam wires with a couple of diodes in them so the power stays on when you switch.
 
Yes, don't make the mistake of tying into a wire that's hot with key on and engine not running. I hooked it up that way at first because that's how they said to, and when I tipped my sled on it's side the engine died and the pump pumped 3 gallons of fuel int the engine and airbox. Caught it on fire trying to purge it out.
 
I've got a 2 lb hobbs switch that I'm going put into the oil pressure plug onto the head,I did this with my RX-1 turbo last year and it works great,I just thought there might be a simpler way. Then you just splice in a toggle switch to over ride the hobbs switch when you need to prime the system.
 
i didn't, I used ignition so mine runs whenever the key is on. If it gives me any trouble i will change it.
 
mine is setup so the pump only works when engine is running and the primer will work when the key is in the on but engine not running :4STroke:


think I better go start it again in anticipation of tomorrow :Rockon: :drink:
 
Fuel Pump

Hardcore,

Sounds like a great idea, where are you getting power from. (Wire color location, ecx. Hows the primer work? Any help greatly appreciated>

Muskrat
 
Guys,the primer isn't neccesary,as soon as the key is turned on the float bowls are full.The most fail safe way of keeping the fuel pump from running is to hook either to oil pressure like I do or like Snowfever does,hook it to air pressure.Then if you need to prime the bowls to get the machine going,put a toggle switch between the the wires and turn it on for a few seconds to prime the bowls.
 


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