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Joined the yamacat winder crew today

Rite around 3.5-4k.

It has the torsional secondary and the bikeman spring and weights in the primary. I'm probably going to pull that primary stuff off tonight and go back to stock weights.
 

150 mile update

So I have taken this thing out a bunch of times now, with the kids and some group rides. The temp stays fairly normal but I do think there is a bit of air in it somewhere. I have a hill on my lot that I'm going to take it on and I have turboflash's bleeding procedure somewhere. Playing around with the kids on the lake yesterday it did seem to stay in the "normal range", it would spike to the 200's when turning it off and leaving it for a bit. But running it around it would drop back down to normal fairly quickly. Trail rides have been pretty normal for temp and if it gets warm I drop a boot.

I got some long #*$&@ scratchers, 12" and I'm trying to figure out where to mount them. I have mocked it up twice now and it looks like the cable will be hitting the snow even when its up. I'm thinking about getting the ibex scratchers and rail mount them

A new problem is the hyfax I took off unfortunately still had a bit of life left in it but I'm playing it safe. The new cat dealer hyfax I got will not butt up against the rail tip. The bottom green is the one I got off the sled, the middle is some garland from denniskirk, and the top is the dealer green. I really want to run the green as it has a nice contrast but again there will be a gap between the rail tip and the hyfax. Yeah I could turn it around and redrill the hole but I just want it to work from the dealer.

View attachment 165901

I'm also going to look at the rear suspension soon, there is a pile of ski pressure and it gets to the point where I have to muscle it around. There is about an inch of thread showing on the front track shock and I think the straps are all the way out. I'm going to lift the rear of the sled up and down a few times and see if the skid touches at the same time. The kids zr 4000 rr can be steered with one hand but it also weighs less.
Scratchers - IMO if they're not carbide, they will wear out fast. Also, will you be able to back up with your selection or will they get caught in track or suspension?
Hyfax, you get what you pay for. The OEM ones will fit correctly (unless there is something else wrong). Aftermarket, it's anyone's guess. Tjhey shouldn't be a gap between rail end cap and hyfax.
 
Rite around 3.5-4k.

It has the torsional secondary and the bikeman spring and weights in the primary. I'm probably going to pull that primary stuff off tonight and go back to stock weights.
Not saying that’s it but it could be. 3500 is okay. I like even around 3200. But 3500 or less for trail riding is good. You mention bikeman spring and weights. Not saying it’s a bad set up but lots of proven set ups on here using Dalton clutching and thunder products clutching, few others also. Not saying you should join the “crowd” but Bikeman would be further down on the list for aftermarket clutching. To put it blunt I don’t know they would make my list.
 
Looks like your running Team clutching. Sorry I thought you were on. Sidewinder. My bad. Nothing wrong with the green colored ones. But clutching wise I was thinking you were on a Windèr.
 
This set up worked well on my 2018 tcat, dalton primary wieghts #qa2-73 with a speedwrks green/wht spring 148/290 lbs and the bikeman torsional secondary, also liked a custom 46/44 helix from speedwrks that i converted to torsional. Was running pefi tunes, eco 200 hp, stage1 235hp, stage2 260hp, stage 3 280hp this combo wrkd well for all power levels by simply adding or sutracting primary arm wieght, had cheat sheet on my air box for setups per selected hp.
 
Scratchers - IMO if they're not carbide, they will wear out fast. Also, will you be able to back up with your selection or will they get caught in track or suspension?
Hyfax, you get what you pay for. The OEM ones will fit correctly (unless there is something else wrong). Aftermarket, it's anyone's guess. Tjhey shouldn't be a gap between rail end cap and hyfax.
Yeah the dealer sold me long track lengths, grabbed the correct length today and will pull and put them on tonight.

I put the stock weights back in, one of the bikeman weights was sticky on the bolt. Couldn't see any abnormal wear though.
 
So I ran into a problem this morning.
Put my stock weights on last night and started it this morning only to have a hell of a time getting it started. It wouldnt run without a constant hold on the throttle and at lower RPM it would run on two cylinders.

Swapped plugs but no luck. I drove it around the yard a few times after it got up to about 160 and then go it on the trailer to still have the idle still be off. I started it up about 10 mins later and it idled fine.


and of course all this happened 2 hours before I go on a 3 day trip.
 
So I ran into a problem this morning.
Put my stock weights on last night and started it this morning only to have a hell of a time getting it started. It wouldnt run without a constant hold on the throttle and at lower RPM it would run on two cylinders.

Swapped plugs but no luck. I drove it around the yard a few times after it got up to about 160 and then go it on the trailer to still have the idle still be off. I started it up about 10 mins later and it idled fine.


and of course all this happened 2 hours before I go on a 3 day trip.
So it started and ran on 2 cylinders instead of 3. That’s what I get. Where was it stored and for how long before you had this issue today? I have never seen this on my Windèr but I saw it often on a viper. Only on REALLY COLD nights. I think it will shake itself out. The viper had valves the needed to be adjusted. NOT saying that your problem. Run it.
 
you didn't turn the motor backward while changing the weights, did you?
 
So I ran into a problem this morning.
Put my stock weights on last night and started it this morning only to have a hell of a time getting it started. It wouldnt run without a constant hold on the throttle and at lower RPM it would run on two cylinders.

Swapped plugs but no luck. I drove it around the yard a few times after it got up to about 160 and then go it on the trailer to still have the idle still be off. I started it up about 10 mins later and it idled fine.


and of course all this happened 2 hours before I go on a 3 day trip.
Spark Plugs are done..
 
Got to our location. Started it up and idled fine.


Now I get to have this hanging over my head for the next three days.


Edit-as a just in case, where is the starter relay on the block?
 
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29EA9EE4-062D-4B99-93AD-AB6A1E59DD1A.jpeg
 


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