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Just bought a 2005 RS Rage and there are a few issues.....

last one i bought was from royal distributing. sudbury yamaha has sold me them as well. either work well if you use the grease/water trick.
 

Again Great job, the original Delta body chassis ride different than your doo’s just like they sound different. I would would encourage you to not jump to different is BAD but enjoy the different as a new normal. That sled with the attention you’ve shown it will go 50 k miles…..not kidding we had a former TY post who took his to very high miles. Personally have only taken them to around 15 before the itch for different has caused me to buy another. ENJOY
 
Again Great job, the original Delta body chassis ride different than your doo’s just like they sound different. I would would encourage you to not jump to different is BAD but enjoy the different as a new normal. That sled with the attention you’ve shown it will go 50 k miles…..not kidding we had a former TY post who took his to very high miles. Personally have only taken them to around 15 before the itch for different has caused me to buy another. ENJOY
Thanks! I appreciate it.

After the money invested into this sled having never actually ridden one.... I have better be open minded! Seriously, I'm aware of how sleds can really change and improve from generation to generation, brand to brand. Heck, suspension adjustment differences between two of the exact same sleds can make you love or hate a sled. Mix in the fact that each chassis and rider weight can make huge differences on a given sled, the only way to get one to ride it's best for that rider is to make some informed adjustments. While some of the principles might be consistent between sleds and manufacturers they can be completely different. So that's the next step. Get some snow and start seeing what I need to do to get it to handle it's best.

Thanks again,

Ed
 
Thanks.

An small update. I yanked the rear back out. Completely went thru everything again, but with much more detail this time. Put new bushings in the W-arm pivot. These bushings appeared to be the same exact size as the A arm bushings, of which I had extra. They were almost totally gone. cleaned and re-greased everything. Put new red slides on. Reset all adjustments back to stock. Did a basic setup of the rear spring preload and the control rods. Left the front shocks with just barely preloaded. Just enough adjustment to ensure the sled was level across the front. It appears the right side of the sled is much heavier than the left. Not good for a snowmobile but a minor spring adjustment can help a bit.

Got all of the new front end parts in the mail and installed. Final alignment done. Added a secondary preload adjuster, nothing really in install. Installed a water temp gauge and installed it. Installed the oil tank saver. Cleaned and painted battery bracket and reinstalled all of that gear once the alignment was done.

While installing the water temp gauge I wanted to take the cowling/headlight assy/gauge panel to clean and make a path to install, connect and hide the wires for the water temp gauge. This turned out to be a can of worms. All of the hardware was rusted, frozen and stripped. There will have to be a few repairs to panels to get them to fit correct and secure.

Clutching.... One of the final remaining mystery's to solve.

Secondary spring was broken. It was unmarked. I have obtained a new Yamaha pink and a used Yamaha white secondary spring. Disassembled and cleaned both clutches. Installed new slide buttons on the secondary. Cap/Helix was an 8BVFA, which is incorrect. Found a serviceable 8BV31. So the secondary should be all stock with a new pink spring and a 43 deg helix. Helix is clocked 3/3. It is also now correctly aligned.

Primary.... Weights were very bad. Clutch completely goo'ed up with fabric debris and oily belt goo. Took almost completely apart and cleaned. Once cleaned most everything was fine except for the weights. I had a hard time getting a set of good 8ES weights, but I did find some. By visual inspection the rivets are different. Maybe the same but swapped position. The larger looking weight is at the outward position. Installed some 3/16 rubber grommets on the Roller bolts. That helped, but now all I can hear is that nasty stub spline knocking. ugh.

The primary spring is also just black with no identifiable markings. So today I decided to test the spring to see if I could identify it. From what I found stock should have been Y-G-Y. 2.5 kg/mm, 123 kg total at 33 mm. And a free length of 89.4 mm.

It's 96 mm tall. Compressed to 33 mm it measures 261 pounds or 118.38 kg. That's only about 1.88 pounds per millimeter... if I did that correctly.
Looking at the spring charts I don't see anything close enough to determine a match. Aftermarket? Looks like a new spring is in my future. It turns about the Schmidt Bros. is about 20 minutes away from me. I plan on getting them to help sort or the primary weight/spring combo. Even if I buy a stock spring, I still haven't weighed the weights/ramps. I guess I could just order the correct rivets as well. But I'd like the lower engagment. Currently the clutch engages about 3100-3200 rpm.

I've really learned a lot about these sleds in a fairly short amount of time. Mainly due to this site as well as the owners and maintenance manuals. And I've yet to actually ride one besides putting this broken one on the trailer.

I have a few pictures but nothing special. Just pictures of it slowly getting put back together. I'm beat, I'll post a few in the AM.

Thanks again for the views and replies.

Ed

The 121 vector and 136 rage run the the same 8es weight but have different rivets. You likely got rage weights if rivets are different. I think the venture has 8es weight too and likely a different rivet combo.
 
The 121 vector and 136 rage run the the same 8es weight but have different rivets. You likely got rage weights if rivets are different. I think the venture has 8es weight too and likely a different rivet combo.
Thank you!

After fixing all of the other issues with this sled including the clutches, I ended up assuming that what was in it was wrong. But it was hard for a layman like myself to positively identify what weights were in there. The new (good shape) used weights I got did visually have a different set of rivets in them. But again. Same problem. It's kinda hard to know for sure by simply weighing the fully assembled weights. Maybe a more experienced tech could have done it visually.

So... I bought a scale and calibration weights. Used the Yamaha manual to get part numbers for the stock primary spring, and rivets to match the 8ES ramps/weights to get some ordered. Did the same for secondary spring and buttons.

When everything showed up I tapped out the old rivets and weighed the weights. I don't recall what they were exactly and I failed to write them down. I was more concerned about them weighing as close to the same as possible. Two were identical and one was maybe a tenth of a gram off. I attempted to take small file to one and see how easy it was to remove weight. I ended up only polishing a spot. Those critters are hard!

So I took a different path. After weighing all of the rivets (and they were all perfect) I installed the inside rivets and used my press to squeeze them a bit. Once installed I took just enough off of the rivets to make all of the ramp/weights exactly the same on my scale. So down to less than a hundredth of a gram they weighed the same. I chose to do this because I felt that closer to the pivot point a minor deviation would have much less of an effect.

I then installed the outer rivets and reweighed them. The ramps/weights were still exactly all the same. And I do remember that weight. 63.88 grams. I don't know if this is good or bad. But they weigh the same. The engagement RPM is a bit lower than stock. I Believe that makes them just a touch heavy still considering it's a brand new Yamaha primary spring. I'm just now getting familiar with clutch tuning. So I reserve the right to be wrong. The clutches were all reassembled and reinstalled. Driven/Secondary was clocked to 3/3.

Okay, now.... I know that the stock clutching isn't all that great. I plan on changing it up. But this sled and especially the clutches were so modded up and screwed up I really wanted to get it back to a reliable stock state first. So that when it does snow I can eliminate as many potential bugs to work out as possible without wrestling with the clutching. Once I think the patient is stable then I'll start tweaking.

I hope all of this makes sense. It's kind of old knowledge for most of you, but you never know.

Also as you can tell I've learned a lot about these sleds and almost all of it I found on this website!

Thanks again.

Ed
 
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Careful installing the tank grommet kit. Those tanks are INCREDIBLY fragile! I had the one in my '06 nytro start leaking while on the trail, luckily I actually had oil with and caught it after the light went on. I attempted to drill out the holes a little on the tank in my '04 warrior, and that was enough to crack it.

Don't remember who sells it, got it on ebay, but there is someone who makes some very nice aluminum welded tanks. They aren't cheap, but cheaper than destroying an engine.
 
Congratulations on your restoration! Let us know how it goes on the trail.
 
Thanks! Not much snow here and trails are very poor. i put about 20 miles on icy ditch banging. It’s a strong runner and drives great.

I have another thread opened on this, but I had low shift RPM. I also really didn’t like the high level of steering effort.

when cold out and average hard pack with a little fresh snow and a broken in new belt it not hits and holds 8500 rpm.

I also had some take-off Pilot 5.7 SL skis. Dual carbide, 4 inch and 6 inch on each ski. Shimmed both. Appears to be dart free and low speed effort is considerably less.

I also added GPS mount and power. 12 VDC power Port and a kill tether.

Shes ready to rip! I just hope it’s not next year the way snow is here right now.

thanks,

Ed
 


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