Just bought Yamaha Nytro XTX 2013/ Maintenance Questions

[SledHeadNed]

I just picked up a 2013 Nytro XTX with 10000km (6000miles) on it. Sled is in great condition and after seeing 5 of them it was the best.

My plan is to change both engine and chain case oil, do the spark plugs and put on some dupont sliders. Are there any other things I should be doing? I plan on having this sled for a while

 

[murdered141]

I had a 13 nytro xtx but in black, Dupont's are a must with the 1.75 " bc, tuner skis seem to work on the nytro, I would look into changing bearing's in the chain case and clutch side and maybe some shims to quiet the clutch rattle and ride

 

[Gone Blue]

I would check exhaust donuts, upper and lower ball joints, ski spindle bushings, and front A-arm bushings. They all could be toast with those miles on the sled. If you are truly going to keep the sled for awhile, I would consider a set of Excell 5.25" wheels in the skid and a set of Yamaha low snow wheels instead of the dupont sliders. I ran this set up on my stretched 144" Phazer and had well over 4,000 miles on the cheapest hyfax I could find. I am sure I could have got another couple thousand miles out of those sliders but I sold the sled and picked up a Nytro. I am setting up my 144" stretched 08" Nytro with this same set up. G.B.

 

[herndonp]

I would highly recommend putting a OFT steering relocate on it if it doesn't have one. Makes a big difference in steering and one of the best upgrades I did. Check all your idler wheel bearings and replace (I replaced 6 this year and have about 6,200 miles on mine). Check the clutchside driveshaft bearing as well. Check and clean those clutches (just warm soapy water and a good rinse)

Pete

 

[herndonp]

I would highly recommend putting a OFT steering relocate on it if it doesn't have one. Makes a big difference in steering and one of the best upgrades I did. Check all your idler wheel bearings and replace (I replaced 6 this year and have about 6,200 miles on mine). Check the clutchside driveshaft bearing as well.

 

[Pmtg04]

These are the wheels you need. There are cheap ones you can find on ebay and they look tempting, BUT they are not the correct diameter wheel. Excell has the correct diameter... https://www.excellmotorsports.com/X-Wheels--wheels

Research suspension settings. Hit the grease zerks. Make sure battery is in good shape, battery tender if you have one.

Some electrical gremlins can show up due to the splice design Yamaha used....they get corrosion and cause goofy issues. Good preventative maintenance if you're into it. At least your sled is 5 years newer than mine.

Oh and replace the fuel pump relay with the red one. Don't have the part number, a search should be a quick find.

 

[mp5]

Update your fuel pump relay with a red solid state version. (Not a bad idea to replace all the relays infront of your motor, on the lower right side. $ of them...replace 3 with red, solid state ones)

Take out, clean and lightly dielectric coat your fuse relay, and fuel pump relays (infront of the battery)

Ski Doo idlers will work for bigger idler wheels too, and are re grease able (good insurance for long slider wear. Recommend Duponts)

OFT steering relocate for sure!!

Mountain tech Industries front console vent (allows engine heat to escape up, and away from motor. Good quality unit!!)http://www.mountaintechindustries.com/

Good quality skid plate...Get One. The Nytro oil filter is at the worse vulnerable location Ive ever seen on any toy...very bottom of sled...only protected by a piece o' junk oem skid plate.

Drop your skid if your able, and glean/repack all of your wheel bearings...or replace. I do it every year...but I'm a tad anal...lol

GET SCRATCHERS for your slides. You'll need em with that 1.75. That said...I flushed my coolant last fall for the first time since I've owned my 09 (7 yrs now), and I had ZERO overheating warnings all last winter (for the first time)...even with the 1.75 I had on. But scratchers are a necessity on these sleds for good insurance.

Not sure how the hand and thumb warmers produce heat on the 13, but my 09 and other Yammie 4 strokes.......well, they SUCK! Yamaheaters and Thumb Boost are, in a word, AWESOME. Easy plug and play, great customer service and did i say how AWESOME they are?

Check all front end bushings...replace if needed, but put Oilites on...will last waaaaaay longer than oem.

Enjoy that 1050 CC TORQUE!!

 

[SledHeadNed]

Thank!

For the front end just jack it up and look for any play in the bushings and balls joints?
Clutches - Is it possible to clean them while on the sled or do i need to remove them? I dont have a puller for the primary.
Is there a good instruction for dropping the skid?
Going to get some ice scratchers, relays and a good skid plate
Thanks again!

 

[mp5]

Yup..take weight off front end somehow and start pulling and tugging on front end parts.

You can take outside plate off primary no problem..no need for a puller. Clean with warm water and soap...and rinse. or disassemble spider while you have it on your bench..easy to do..and clean more thoroughly. Same with secondary, although that whole clutch comes right off. Make sure you keep track of the washers and shims on the sec shaft, so you know the order when reassembling.

Loosen your rear idler wheels all the way lose, then undo your front bolts to skid, then rear. May heave to loosen your front bolts a little at a time on both sides though, as opposed to one side fully loose, then the other. You'll know what I mean when or if it happens that both just keep spinning. Rears are easy. I just lift rear end with my chain falls, pick up the track as much as I can, and start wrestling the skid out sideways. Some will prob have easier methods.

 

[Hooray!]

I did a rebuild on my 2009 last year, my thread is still here on first page and if you read through all 11+ pages it will walk you through what I picked up along the way plus detailed pics of all bushings. Key I found was determining where you are wear-wise. 6000 miles without any bushing updates likely means you could redo all like I did but min change engine oil, chain case oil, top off with Yamacool in your radiator, do all four main bearings (PITA) and while you have the skid out, check some of the cheap plastic bushings, likely all your front end bushings, consider oil-lites for the A arms and ski spindles, my Bergstrom skeg setup rocks on the Tuner skis you have... then squeeze the throttle and smile!

 

[porkchop]

Ditch the stock seat..... get a WRP

Got too much other stuff listed on both of mine, see below.

 

[Hooray!]

A WRP is on my list too, 2" higher would bring our position closer to a REV rider forward ATV like stance, a good athletic position for riding.

 

[DirtFarmer]

Travis at BOP had one already on a seat pan at a good price. I bought one over the summer from him. Can’t wait to try it out.

 

[802 Rider]

Scratches a must on these! Hard packed snow or low snow levels the scracthers save you for sure. I picked up a 1 XTX at the end of last season, did a 800 mile ride in Jackman, ME and loved it compared to my 08 RTX shorty