Lets talk preventative upgrades

[Winder_506]

Spring checked a 2020 Ltx-Le in jet stream blue. Traded my trusty '13 Apex xtx that I put over 10,000 miles on with absolutly zero issues outside of regular chain case and jack shaft bearings at 6,000 miles. Before my winder ever sees snow i will have the chain tensioner roller screws welded, brake side final drive bearing locked with bearing retainer as per Rocker Dan, a 4/2 stud pattern with 1.630 triggers and a set of semi agressive snow trackers on the factory tuner III. This is all considering none of these issues have been touched on from the factory but besides these known and well talked about issues what should i look for/do to keep this yamacat gas and go ?

 

[NYTurbo]

Check clutch alignment. Go over all clamps. Anti seize on muffler bolts,

 

[Sledroll]

Check clutch alignment. Go over all clamps. Anti seize on muffler bolts,

If Winder 506's dealer is any good , I would bring these issues to their attention .
they may / should have a list of concerns from previous set ups that they know need attention.

 

[NYTurbo]

Really need to use Hurricanes clutch alignment tool.

 

[Q. Arrius]

Other than what you mentioned, as well as the muffler bolt getting anti-seize.....I would do the following:

Replace the muffler torx bolts with standard bolts. Buy extra and replace every so often after disassembly, or perhaps find high quality bolts?

Check your chain case sight glass. I’ve heard of plenty falling out.

Burp your sled’s antifreeze.....or add water wetter, or add Yamaha diluted antifreeze. I’ve heard some come from the factory w/ pure antifreeze. I’m guessing almost all come un-burped basically. Not all dealers get this done.

Look for oil drips or even seeping oil from the lines and oil tank. I’ve read about cracked tanks and porous metal.

Since you’re studding, you absolutely must buy the tunnel protectors. THINK about what you’re doing before you screw the self tapper in at the last step! If not....you will be screwing into the exchanger. Very easy to install, but if you rush it, you’ll be very sorry.

Add-on stuff:
Obviously the skis you have handled. The only other critical would in imho be the secondary adjuster. Makes belt changes easy. You could do the Barn of Parts belly pan/ belt guard, and the BoP hose protector. I feel safer having those two items. Myself....I’d also do a front bumper. Oh might be critical: the BoP Apex thumb/throttle upgrade. I’ve heard Yami fixed or upgraded the throttle, but not sure. On my ‘17, the heat simply wasn’t strong enough, (for me.)

What is probably the most important:
You can do everything you read in this forums and still have issues, or do ‘em all and realize it was wasted money and time. I’ve had zero issues. You read the stuff here and start to believe the sled will blow apart....when in reality they are pretty good. But the SW isn’t your Apex. It can’t really be ridden all season and checked sometime in summer. It’s really more of a sports car that needs to be checked and monitored.

You’re buying a premier motor or Ferrari, assembled at the Ford Factory. Maybe it can be compared to when speed shops take a base model mustang and turn it into supercar. I don’t know....Hurst, Shelby...you get the point. Don’t think for a minute that it has the same Yamaha quality control that your Apex had. Point being...go over it often. Kinda high maintenance factor if you ask me, but I accept that.

Last: I’d ride it for a season before ever considering a tune or such. If you go that route, at least consider the downsides that come along with that. I ride/ care for it/ prepare as if I was by myself, 200 miles out and the sun setting. So far so good.

Good luck, you’ll love your Sidewinder.

Q. Arrius

 

[Mototown]

Has to be at least 2400F nickel anti seize on bolts 1800F doesn't cut it . If you are putting more secondary spring pressure to the clutch s , I would recommend replacing the primary roller bushings with duralon bushings from Yamaha .
P#90380-09245
I would still bypass & plug the intake on the ROV even with Yamaha updates

 

[Pstn head]

All the above plus- Steve with OCD will definitely suggest lots of LOCK TIGHT!!!
Also the following:
- Barn of parts tunnel hose protector
- replace or remove the seat bolt
- replace the skis to an aftermarket or the Artic Cat ski (or install snow tracker carbides)
- heavier duty front skid arm cross bar (another Barn of parts product)
- belly pan belt protector
- something to strengthen your fore arm's because she's gonna pull hard, plus lots of beer for the long summer ahead.

 

[Winder_506]

Other than what you mentioned, as well as the muffler bolt getting anti-seize.....I would do the following:

Replace the muffler torx bolts with standard bolts. Buy extra and replace every so often after disassembly, or perhaps find high quality bolts?

Check your chain case sight glass. I’ve heard of plenty falling out.

Burp your sled’s antifreeze.....or add water wetter, or add Yamaha diluted antifreeze. I’ve heard some come from the factory w/ pure antifreeze. I’m guessing almost all come un-burped basically. Not all dealers get this done.

Look for oil drips or even seeping oil from the lines and oil tank. I’ve read about cracked tanks and porous metal.

Since you’re studding, you absolutely must buy the tunnel protectors. THINK about what you’re doing before you screw the self tapper in at the last step! If not....you will be screwing into the exchanger. Very easy to install, but if you rush it, you’ll be very sorry.

Add-on stuff:
Obviously the skis you have handled. The only other critical would in imho be the secondary adjuster. Makes belt changes easy. You could do the Barn of Parts belly pan/ belt guard, and the BoP hose protector. I feel safer having those two items. Myself....I’d also do a front bumper. Oh might be critical: the BoP Apex thumb/throttle upgrade. I’ve heard Yami fixed or upgraded the throttle, but not sure. On my ‘17, the heat simply wasn’t strong enough, (for me.)

What is probably the most important:
You can do everything you read in this forums and still have issues, or do ‘em all and realize it was wasted money and time. I’ve had zero issues. You read the stuff here and start to believe the sled will blow apart....when in reality they are pretty good. But the SW isn’t your Apex. It can’t really be ridden all season and checked sometime in summer. It’s really more of a sports car that needs to be checked and monitored.

You’re buying a premier motor or Ferrari, assembled at the Ford Factory. Maybe it can be compared to when speed shops take a base model mustang and turn it into supercar. I don’t know....Hurst, Shelby...you get the point. Don’t think for a minute that it has the same Yamaha quality control that your Apex had. Point being...go over it often. Kinda high maintenance factor if you ask me, but I accept that.

Last: I’d ride it for a season before ever considering a tune or such. If you go that route, at least consider the downsides that come along with that. I ride/ care for it/ prepare as if I was by myself, 200 miles out and the sun setting. So far so good.

Good luck, you’ll love your Sidewinder.

Q. Arrius

Thanks for the input. The dealer told me the same thing about apex vs winder. Im a wrench head and checked my apex over, often with the boys having a few beverages inmy shop. i even checked/agjusted the exup valve at min twice in season as well as before the first ride. I had to make sure to get the max at all times from the old pex to be in the realm of these new 850;s from both camps. I will look into the belt adjuster from BOP as well as a belly pan protector. I have mentioned these things to my dealer and will talk with them further shortly when i deliver the apex to them as i had to take off a lot of accesories and go fast parts b 4 selling to get that extra bit of cash out of the sled. The tunnel protectors are going to be installed by the dealer when they assemble the sled. I also know what you mean about reading to deep into things but these issues seem to come up and its nothing for me and my buddies to jump on the sleds for a 3 day 550 mile run around the north of the province and back. I just want to make sure these things dont plauge me on such a trip. As for the flash, not sure yet on that, for sure a clutch kit and traction to see what it will do vs my buddies 850 poo;s and doo;s. I know top end but im talking about thw 100o foot race your neighbour we have every sunday. Really interested to see what ill have for the boys box stock vs clutched. One particularly quick 850 doo.

 

[Mototown]

I wouldn't waist money on a "clutch kit " stock helix works good , no jaw dropping improvements there , secondary spring , and dalton weights ( if with a flash ) . Secondary spring settings have a the most effect on first 150 ft from what I have tested , along with a min of 120 1.450 with 32 scratch lines on ice

 

[ClutchMaster]

Always carry a pocket full of primary clutch rollers.

 

[4strokes]

cat rr upper cross arm shaft and lower shock cross shaft

 

[Teamblue4]

Your going to need knee pads.

 

[swampcat]

All the above plus- Steve with OCD will definitely suggest lots of LOCK TIGHT!!!
Also the following:
- Barn of parts tunnel hose protector
- replace or remove the seat bolt
- replace the skis to an aftermarket or the Artic Cat ski (or install snow tracker carbides)
- heavier duty front skid arm cross bar (another Barn of parts product)
- belly pan belt protector
- something to strengthen your fore arm's because she's gonna pull hard, plus lots of beer for the long summer ahead.

Remove the seat bolt and turn it around and use it like a stud. Latch works the same and the stud keeps it there.

 

[Chris Rose]

cat rr upper cross arm shaft and lower shock cross shaft

Here are the part numbers for the RR parts. 3604-791 bushing (2),8408-051 bolts (2),3604-711 axle for tunnel, 3604-798 axle for shock.