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Limited number of Awesome 4-stroke HID Lighting Kits!

Rockmeister

TY Advertiser
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Messages
2,187
Location
NE Indiana
Website
www.yamaheater.com
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
We have a limited number of HID Light kits for 4 strokes!

We purchased a bunch for testing & am selling them for $100 a set. :Rockon:
$125 with the quick connect patch cables.

I can send 4 sets out right now from Muni, the rest I will have to send out when I am back at the shop.
You are welcome to order them now, they are on a first come, first serve basis.

The Quick connect patch cables will be made up when i am back at the shop, anyone ordering them with the patch cables will get them in about 1-1/2 weeks.
(Am out of them up here right now.)

When these are gone, they are gone!

The Kits are 35W Bi-xenon (High AND Low are HID) 4.3K kits.
The 4.3K is the frequency and tends to pierce the snowdust the best.

All have a 1 year warranty & will work on any Yamaha 4-stroke sled.

Private Message (PM) me if you want a set before they are gone!

Rock :-o

PS If you are in the Munising, MI area this weekend, can pickup directly from me!
 

Heyya SJ!

Send me a PM right away, will get you taken care of!
Have a bunch of PMs am going through right now.

Rock : )
 
A number of people have asked me about these.

A bit of background.

There is actually a great deal of difference between different Lamps & Ballasts, even though they almost all look the same!

With the Lamps one of the biggest issues is the amount of mechanical Play in the lamp mechanism.

If there is a bunch of play, it makes the lamps vibrate when hitting bumps.
All lamps will have some play, the key is to have very little.
That way the vibration is barely noticeable and not irritating as you ride.

All the lamps in these kits are the good low vibration ones.

The differences in Ballasts is what is REALLY amazing!
They all basically look the same on the outside, other than a name, label etc.
However, on the inside, they are radically different!
Some take some SERIOUS in-rush current.
This is hard on your electrical system.
Others will only accept a vary narrow range of input voltage & will shut the lamps off if you get near the limits, like when you let off the throttle.

Another thing we found in testing, is the labels on the box & specs printed on the Ballasts themselves are mostly lies.
Yes, Lies.

For example, many claim "Low Inrush Current".
This is mostly a lie.
Compared to shorting out your car battery, maybe.
Compared to many other ballasts we tested, no friggin way!

The Inrush currents & running currents usually printed on the ballasts are mostly lies also.
Most of the best ones, did not even make any claims, they simply worked well!
The main thing we found out, and this is rather weird, but the fewer claims the manufacturer made, usually the better they worked.
Conversely, the more claims they made, the less well they worked.
Odd, but that is what we found.

The end result is we tested a BUNCH of these!
Many of them simply are too cheaply built for our use, the cheaply built ones are the ones I am selling on E-bay, same as everyone else.
(No way would I even think about selling them to sledders. A car may be ok, but not a sled.)

The best lamps and ballasts are the the ones I am selling here.

They may or may not have been tested.
We tested hundreds of Lamps & Ballasts, but once a make/model was separated and identified as good or bad, we moved on to another batch.

You wont get or pay for a fancy box.
You will get a solid kit with well made parts that will take care of you for a long time.

Really need the room in my Lab right now. lol
Glad to be able to help you guys out with it!

Rock :-o
 
Am back from Munising, at the shop making Quick Connect Cables for you guys right now.

Have a few sets left, if you want one of them get a hold of me soon.
Will get you taken care of!

Rock :-o
 
DMM Kits

A number of people have asked me about DMM kits specifically.
Just to be sure before I posted anything, I double-checked the numbers by testing them again today.

The lamps themselves are not too bad, about average mechanical play, yet a bit too much for us to accept.

The ballasts are where the real differences are again.
Their inrush current is a bit better than average.
In rush current was limited to 7Amps.
Not bad, better than many others.

However, their final current draw is where they seriously failed.
Final current draw was 5Amps.

Test Voltage was 14Vdc
Power used = Voltage X Current = 14V X 5A = 70W used.

This means they take 70 Watts of Power to drive a 35 Watt lamp!
That is an efficiency of 50% That is horrible efficiency!
So for a 2 lamp system, they take 140 Watts to do what your system used to take 110 Watts to do.


Our stators basically have little to no reserve left & definitely won't like the increased load over time.


The only ballasts we passed had a running current of 3Amps or less.

Power used to operate a 35 Watt lamp was 14V X 3A = 42 Watts
This is an efficiency of ~83%, MUCH better!
With 2 lamps, this makes a total load on your stator of 84 Watts.

A power SAVINGS of 26 Watts over the stock lamps AND with a light output of 3-4 times the stock levels, a MUCH better deal!
Lowered stator & engine loads, extended stator life, AND GREAT LIGHTS!
What's not to like?

Hope this helps!

Rock :-o
 
I know Rock is not looking for testimonials but here goes one anyway.....had a set of these installed in my son-in-law's 06 Apex RTX.....install only took about 30 or so min. and went very smoothly.......mainly cause I had "the pro" and "his little helper" do it :Rockon: ......what an improvement......my SIL absolutely RAVED about the difference over stock and he had Silverstar Ultras in his sled.
 
How do these kits compare to the ones that I got from you a few years back? Going on a 12 Apex
 
Same basic kit, however the ballasts are better than the ones we have offered in the past.
We are also building the Quick Connect Harnesses ourselves due to poor quality of the previous supplier.
 


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