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Lost mid to top end power.

Ok, just talked to the guy that I said was going to look at it. He had the carbs off of the sled 3 times, and could not find a thing wrong with them. And he saw how it was only going up to 8,000 rpms he checked every thing completely. He said I should think about getting a used carb for my sled. He is a guy that works on Yamaha 4 strokes and he is pretty stumped. He did mention it was running rich, so he said he leaned it out a little bit. But that did not help it. I am going to get the clear tubing and sync the carbs this year. But as of right now, the carbs have been off of my sled 7 times:o|! And he mentioned every thing else is fine. I am going to run some sea foam, or some thing through it, but I doubt that will help it. Other than that just run it for this year:(. And look for a used carburetor this summer. Thanks to all for the input on this problem.
 

Sync carbs is the only thing I have left to do. Hopefully this helps it.
 
As someone else suggested, if you can find someone to clean them ultrasonically for cheap, I would. Unless you can find a cheap set of used carbs. I've worked on carbs for my street bikes since 92',so without being able to get my hands on them I can't help. But I'd say take some good brake cleaner and spray every orifice out, and make sure that the fluid comes out a different hole besides the one you're spray in. And compare all 3. One carb a hole might flow really well, 1 a dribble. Make sure slides are smooth. Use finger to move them up and down. Check to make sure all 3 have same resistance when moving them up. I've never had a carb I couldn't fix with some cleaning, adjustments, or a gasket or o-ring.

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As someone else suggested, if you can find someone to clean them ultrasonically for cheap, I would. Unless you can find a cheap set of used carbs. I've worked on carbs for my street bikes since 92',so without being able to get my hands on them I can't help. But I'd say take some good brake cleaner and spray every orifice out, and make sure that the fluid comes out a different hole besides the one you're spray in. And compare all 3. One carb a hole might flow really well, 1 a dribble. Make sure slides are smooth. Use finger to move them up and down. Check to make sure all 3 have same resistance when moving them up. I've never had a carb I couldn't fix with some cleaning, adjustments, or a gasket or o-ring.

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Yeah, I hear ya. I sprayed brake cleaner threw every thing on it. And the slides are how they are suppose to be. As for ultrasonic cleaning, no one does it up my way. I live in the woods, not the city. I will be keep working on it, in my spare time. As of right now, we have a foot and a half of snow, and 12 to 18 inches of powder on the way. So I will sync the carbs, as many people have said so to do. That should help it some. And I will go from there when that is done. I work on carbs all the time, lawn mowers, weedwackers, Yamaha V-max 700 carbs. So I do know how to clean them, so this is not my first time cleaning carbs. Just this one has me stumped.
 
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Ok, found out today that the guy that worked on my sled did not put the slides back together again right. The rubber part, which makes the seal. So I took the whole carbs off again, this is the 8th time the carb has been off this sled. LOL. So I fixed the slides, see the pictures. Found out a new way to hold the slide rubber gasket in place, so you can put the black plastic top on. I just used a little grease to hold the rubber boot. Works great if you are by your self!!!! I mentioned before that the guy that worked on it, said the carbs where to rich. So he tried to lean it out some, but when he did not put the slide back together right, he though it was not fixed. And it was not. I also sync the carbs today to. Thanks Grizz for your post on how to make your own sync tool!!! Got the whole thing back together, and it is doing 9,100 to 9,200 RPMs. My sled is back boys!!!! It is finally fixed after all this time. So what fixed it was leaning out the to rich carbs, fixing the slides, and sync the carbs. Thanks to all you guys for your help.
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And my carbs where so far out of Sync it was scary. lol. And the little bit of grease holds the slide in place so one guy can put it together again like new. Works very well
 
That's good to hear. Curious.... How did he "lean" it out? He drop needles, or change main? Usually being out of sync affects idle the most.

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That's good to hear. Curious.... How did he "lean" it out? He shim needles, or change main? Usually being out of sync affects idle the most.

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Would like to know this as well. Yea maybe these engines run a little rich (based on plug color) but what is one gaining by leaning these engines out? 1/2 mpg? It's not a 2S. There's reasons why these engines run and run and run and.......

Another way to get these engines to idle a bit better is to remove the caps over the air (fuel?) on the bottom of the carbs. Yamaha sets these at the factory to get the best emissions regardless of how it idles. Don't hold me to this but I think the adjustment is 1.5 turns out from all the way in. Somebody here please confirm this.
 
That's good to hear. Curious.... How did he "lean" it out? He shim needles, or change main? Usually being out of sync affects idle the most.

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He did some thing with the Float. I think, do not hold me to that either. It is still running rich though.
 
That's good to hear. Curious.... How did he "lean" it out? He shim needles, or change main? Usually being out of sync affects idle the most.

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He did some thing with the Float. I think, do not hold me to that either. It is still running rich though.
Would like to know this as well. Yea maybe these engines run a little rich (based on plug color) but what is one gaining by leaning these engines out? 1/2 mpg? It's not a 2S. There's reasons why these engines run and run and run and.......

Another way to get these engines to idle a bit better is to remove the caps over the air (fuel?) on the bottom of the carbs. Yamaha sets these at the factory to get the best emissions regardless of how it idles. Don't hold me to this but I think the adjustment is 1.5 turns out from all the way in. Somebody here please confirm this.
My sled is still running rich I think. Wondering if he did do some thing to the floats, if I should pick up 3 brand new one, so it will be back to stock? I am just happy I have RPMS back!!! All I know is he said it was running wicked rich, and he tried to lean it out some.
 
He did some thing with the Float. I think, do not hold me to that either. It is still running rich though.

My sled is still running rich I think. Wondering if he did do some thing to the floats, if I should pick up 3 brand new one, so it will be back to stock? I am just happy I have RPMS back!!! All I know is he said it was running wicked rich, and he tried to lean it out some.
But how could he know your sled was running rich by simply taking the carbs apart? The floats are spring adjustable. You can adjust them yourself and put them back to spec easily. These sleds don't normally run too rich. You can jet them up and down, it should not make much difference.
 
But how could he know your sled was running rich by simply taking the carbs apart? The floats are spring adjustable. You can adjust them yourself and put them back to spec easily. These sleds don't normally run too rich. You can jet them up and down, it should not make much difference.
Is there some link, or pictures you could show me how to adjust the floats? It was very throaty in the exhaust, very. You could hear it in the exhaust. I am not sure what he did. As of right now, my sled has a flutter going on at idle, when you start it up when it is warm. Am wondering if the carbs are to rich, and is flooding out with gas? Now hear this, when I first start it up and it is fluttering. I just tap the throttle, and it come right out of it. So it is to lean, or rich. As the carbs are fully synced. It just has the flutter when warm, goes awesome other than the flutter. Any help on this problem would be helpful. I am going to check the spark plugs tomorrow, to see if it is running rich, or lean. So if you could post a link, or pictures how to adjust the floats, that would help a lot. It is running so much better now, that it did!! Just got to fix the flutter. Ok, I am done rambling.
 
Just checked the spark plugs, and they are white. So it is running to lean. Going to have to adjust the floats in the carbs. What do you mean when you say they are spring adjustable? Also, I found the middle spark plug had gas on the end of it, while the other two where dry. I bet that is why I have the flutter on idle. So I guess what I am asking you guys, is how do you adjust the floats? And what could be causing the middle spark plug to be wet with gas? I know you are all sick of hearing about my sled, and problems. Just want to get it a little richer, and make is so it idles smoother.
 
Just checked the spark plugs, and they are white. So it is running to lean. Going to have to adjust the floats in the carbs. What do you mean when you say they are spring adjustable? Also, I found the middle spark plug had gas on the end of it, while the other two where dry. I bet that is why I have the flutter on idle. So I guess what I am asking you guys, is how do you adjust the floats? And what could be causing the middle spark plug to be wet with gas? I know you are all sick of hearing about my sled, and problems. Just want to get it a little richer, and make is so it idles smoother.
In the manual there is a spec for the float height. The float height can be adjusted by tuning the little clip spring on them. But they just control fuel height in the bowl, so it doesn't overfill or underfill. To adjust fuel feed you are mostly looking at main, pilot, or shimming the needles on the slides.
 
In the manual there is a spec for the float height. The float height can be adjusted by tuning the little clip spring on them. But they just control fuel height in the bowl, so it doesn't overfill or underfill. To adjust fuel feed you are mostly looking at main, pilot, or shimming the needles on the slides.
Ok. But what about the one spark plug with gas on the end of it? The other two had no wetness. I think this is why it flutters on idle, as it is not stopping the gas flow when the motor is shut off, hence the flooding of that piston. And when it is fluttering, all I do is bump the gas, and the idle smooth's right out. And my carbs are stock, just wondering about the white spark plugs also. I have rode 200 miles and I just checked the spark plugs. Have not noticed any thing unusual, just the wet spark plug. And found they are white at the end. Should I be concerned about this? Thanks Metallicat for your help.
 


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