SRX Boy
Expert
I have stock skis with Woody's 6" carbide with 144 studs down the middle. Fiddling with suspension Set up - what have people found works best? I seem to have too much ski pressure.
I have front skis shocks on softest setting (have not adjusted preload) while other shocks are on middle setting (have not adjusted preload) and I have the blocks on the middle setting. Now looking to drop the front of the track one hole (currently stock).
Anyone figure out best Set up for general trail riding??
I have front skis shocks on softest setting (have not adjusted preload) while other shocks are on middle setting (have not adjusted preload) and I have the blocks on the middle setting. Now looking to drop the front of the track one hole (currently stock).
Anyone figure out best Set up for general trail riding??
jonlafon1
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You should have 5 holes in your limiter straps. Use hole 1 which makes the straps the longest.. And then I would tighten(stiffer) the front shock in the suspension.. Not sure what you have for shock/spring combo. If you have a spring on the shock turn it to make the spring tighter(stiffer).
I do not have the same sled BUT if you have to much ski pressure I would start with what I mentioned
I do not have the same sled BUT if you have to much ski pressure I would start with what I mentioned
Snowaddict
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- mstahl88
The first couple of times that I rode my LTX-LE I wasn't really pleased with the turning. It seemed the outside ski would bite hard at times and the inside ski would lift. Seemed very hard to turn and fatigued my shoulders. The conditions were prett much hard pack, and flat. I got talked into leaving it, however, by my buddy. He owns a 15 LTX-LE Viper. His reasoning was that the suspension itself needs to break in and will eventually loosenup some. So, I have everything set stock and clickers (or whatever they're referred to) are all at #2. Stock junk carbides are still on too.
So, rode again last weekend in the best conditions so far, with tons of snow on the trails and loose. Thought I was on a whole different sled! No push. Actually, slid across a few turns and felt like I needed a little more ski pressure at times. Didn’t feel it in my shoulders at all. Quite a pleasure. So, I am not sure if just difference in conditions, more breaking in, or combination of the 2 caused the changes in handling. Once the 500 miles of break in is complete, I'm going to put different carbides on and tweak accordingly. Definitely interested in others set ups and am subscribed to this thread.
So, rode again last weekend in the best conditions so far, with tons of snow on the trails and loose. Thought I was on a whole different sled! No push. Actually, slid across a few turns and felt like I needed a little more ski pressure at times. Didn’t feel it in my shoulders at all. Quite a pleasure. So, I am not sure if just difference in conditions, more breaking in, or combination of the 2 caused the changes in handling. Once the 500 miles of break in is complete, I'm going to put different carbides on and tweak accordingly. Definitely interested in others set ups and am subscribed to this thread.
DIwarrior
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I've got about 550 mile on my LTX-LE now. The shocks do soften, loosen up as you put some mile on the sled. I'm running an Ice Attack XT pre-studded track, 6 inch carbide on the outside, original 4 inch on inside of ski. Front shocks on "2", front track shock on "2", rear track shock on "1". Loosened the front ski springs so I can turn them with one hand while front suspended. Very happy with this set-up. Reduced steering effort at lower speeds, and no ski lift when running it. Still experiencing some darting on hard pack trails with stock skis.
Reaper
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I have stock skis with Woody's 6" carbide with 144 studs down the middle. Fiddling with suspension Set up - what have people found works best? I seem to have too much ski pressure.
I have front skis shocks on softest setting (have not adjusted preload) while other shocks are on middle setting (have not adjusted preload) and I have the blocks on the middle setting. Now looking to drop the front of the track one hole (currently stock).
Anyone figure out best Set up for general trail riding??
This is where I am at and its an excellent handing setup:
LTX=LE 220lb rider
Front Suspension
-Compression on 1, rebound 12 clicks from hardest
-Spring tension removed. When lifted just enough spring tension to keep spring seated.
-Pilot 6.9 Ski's with 8" Woodys Executive runner in center, nothing for outboard runner
Rear Suspension
-Center shock on compression setting 1
-Spring tightened to 10 threads showing (may go a little more)
-Rebound factory
-Rear shock on compression setting 2
-Rebound factory
-Spring tension 1
-Blocks removed from transfer rod
Handles like a dream now with light steering.
lakercr
Tech Advisor
Reaper
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@Reaper this is almost exactly my setup. Major improvement from how the sled left TRF. I'm still running the stock ski and trying to decide between the Pilots or a set of C&A's. How is the SW for getting up on top of the snow now, and front end stability in powder?
Huge improvement with the pilot 6.9
Floatations and stability dramatically improved and easy steering. Seeing 108 -100mph on speedo but that's on trails that's are a bit loose.
Have heard shimming the back of the tuner helps to get the leading edge of the carbide out of the snow and improve steering effort.
ROCKERDAN
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the 6.9s go a long way to curing most all the steering weight issues....really a good setup.
lakercr
Tech Advisor
Shimming a Tuner = lipstick on pig.
@ROCKERDAN 's setup is the way I'm leaning, I just wish he'd have put some effort into his post...
@ROCKERDAN 's setup is the way I'm leaning, I just wish he'd have put some effort into his post...
WINDER1987
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Do you have a picture of what you mean on your front ski spring tension can you measure with a tape how much threads you have on the front and center spring thanks I'm 220 dressed so am going to try copying your setup but I have usi triple threat skis which seem heavy steeringThis is where I am at and its an excellent handing setup:
LTX=LE 220lb rider
Front Suspension
-Compression on 1, rebound 12 clicks from hardest
-Spring tension removed. When lifted just enough spring tension to keep spring seated.
-Pilot 6.9 Ski's with 8" Woodys Executive runner in center, nothing for outboard runner
Rear Suspension
-Center shock on compression setting 1
-Spring tightened to 10 threads showing (may go a little more)
-Rebound factory
-Rear shock on compression setting 2
-Rebound factory
-Spring tension 1
-Blocks removed from transfer rod
Handles like a dream now with light steering.
Reaper
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Do you have a picture of what you mean on your front ski spring tension can you measure with a tape how much threads you have on the front and center spring thanks I'm 220 dressed so am going to try copying your setup but I have usi triple threat skis which seem heavy steering
I took out 8mm of preload from stock.
It was from the start of the threads to the locking collar 93mm stock and I backed it off to 85mm.
WVTurboLTX
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Same sled as yours. This is where I am with mine. Different skis though. My setup won't lift the skis but it does transfer enough to get good traction. I can pin it in the middle of the corner and have zero ski lift like this.
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/500-mile-report-and-suspension-setup.146102/
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/500-mile-report-and-suspension-setup.146102/
Sledroll
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2017 SW LTX LE
This is where I am at and its an excellent handing setup:
LTX=LE 220lb rider
Front Suspension
-Compression on 1, rebound 12 clicks from hardest
-Spring tension removed. When lifted just enough spring tension to keep spring seated.
-Pilot 6.9 Ski's with 8" Woodys Executive runner in center, nothing for outboard runner
Rear Suspension
-Center shock on compression setting 1
-Spring tightened to 10 threads showing (may go a little more)
-Rebound factory
-Rear shock on compression setting 2
-Rebound factory
-Spring tension 1
-Blocks removed from transfer rod
Handles like a dream now with light steering.
Does this take care of 99% of darting like snowtrackers do ?
Snowaddict
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- mstahl88
How do you know what setting the transfer blocks and cams (whatever you call the triangle things the springs sit on in the rear) are on? I don't see a number or any identifying mark?
Last edited:
jonlafon1
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Look at the thickness of the three settings.. Like how much material(plastic triangle) is there between metal rod (springs) where it runs through the triangle groove..... The thinner the material the lower the setting(looser).. Make sense? If not PM me and we can get it straightHow do you know what setting the transfer blocks and cams (whatever you call the triangle things the springs sit on in the rear) are on? I don't see a number or any identifying mark?
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