LTX weight transfer

[WINDER1987]

Does anyone have any video or has anyone conquered getting the ltx to transfer weight in a way I wish I would of gotten an rtx to be able to play. I bought the speedwerx rapid block shaved one setting down as low as it can go and still cannot get any ski lift on the trail I have 192 1.450 triggers as well in the powder I can get it to come right up not from a sit still but from bouncing on the back end it will transfer weight pretty well. But on any sort of trail condition hard pack loose or even a couple tracks it will not lift or transfer at all. Any recommendations or ssuspension adjustments to try

 

[snowbeast]

Wow you got triggers in,and still will not transfer. Remove your blocks completely,set your rear shock on 1 or min,and have torsion springs set on low,on hard pack you should get it to lift some,where do you have your straps,front skid shock set on,and rebound settings?

 

[KnappAttack]

Put some power in it, it will transfer if your studded properly. My buddy had his flip over backwards over an ever so slight rise in the trail last week. Told him to watch if if he hooked up as I figured it will come right over at stock trail height on a guy with good traction and it did.

Theres no way I could ever take out the coupler blocks like I did on the old Suzuki 1100 turbo.

All it takes is power and traction and you'll have it where you're trying to adjust it the other way and get the transfer out of it.

 

[WINDER1987]

Wow you got triggers in,and still will not transfer. Remove your blocks completely,set your rear shock on 1 or min,and have torsion springs set on low,on hard pack you should get it to lift some,where do you have your straps,front skid shock set on,and rebound settings?

I will have to go over my settings and report back. Will the rod get damages with the blocks removed?

 

[lhdriller]

Wow you got triggers in,and still will not transfer. Remove your blocks completely,set your rear shock on 1 or min,and have torsion springs set on low,on hard pack you should get it to lift some,where do you have your straps,front skid shock set on,and rebound settings?

Any concern with damage once blocks are removed? I'm having same issue. Looking for ski lift. At least a bit

 

[WINDER1987]

Put some power in it, it will transfer if your studded properly. My buddy had his flip over backwards over an ever so slight rise in the trail last week. Told him to watch if if he hooked up as I figured it will come right over at stock trail height on a guy with good traction and it did.

Theres no way I could ever take out the coupler blocks like I did on the old Suzuki 1100 turbo.

All it takes is power and traction and you'll have it where you're trying to adjust it the other way and get the transfer out of it.

Is his an ltx Le? I had a nytro 121 that would transfer weight like crazy and less than half the studs this thing will not budge not even on little bumps or hill inclines

 

[KnappAttack]

Is his an ltx Le? I had a nytro 121 that would transfer weight like crazy and less than half the studs this thing will not budge not even on little bumps or hill inclines

Cat RR9000 with Hurricane 270 Race tune. Same thing as a LTX-LE only in a Cat Green paint scheme.

 

[fatchance]

The rod won't get damaged with the blocks out, but it is important to have the pads on the scissors make even contact with the flat side on the rod or the pads will get damaged.

 

[snowbeast]

The rod won't get damaged with the blocks out, but it is important to have the pads on the scissors make even contact with the flat side on the rod or the pads will get damaged.

Correct,that is the only problem,align them when sitting on sled,have someone help you,because the torque arm sizzors back to stop on bar,if you losen the rod so you can turn it to match up to the pads on the torque arm,you will be fine.

 

[Big_Phil]

Wow you got triggers in,and still will not transfer. Remove your blocks completely,set your rear shock on 1 or min,and have torsion springs set on low,on hard pack you should get it to lift some,where do you have your straps,front skid shock set on,and rebound settings?

Set your rear shock and torsion spring like that and you'll bottom out on every big bump tho.

 

[dgjr636]

Make sure front Limited strap is let out all the way. Also tighten front or rear shock spring. On my 17 LTX Le I tightened front shock spring till light weight second spring was completely collapsed.
Hooked like crazy then.

Don’t take out transfer rod completely unless you want to blow out bump stops on rails every time you ride.

 

[Doowithblue]

Make sure front Limited strap is let out all the way. Also tighten front or rear shock spring. On my 17 LTX Le I tightened front shock spring till light weight second spring was completely collapsed.
Hooked like crazy then.

Don’t take out transfer rod completely unless you want to blow out bump stops on rails every time you ride.

Crushing the tender spring is not recommended for a dual rate to work properly. You'd be better off with a heavier dual rate combo or a 150ish lb straight rate center.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I feel your pain!
I wish i got the 129'' RTX, but i did get my LTX to transfer enough where i actually dialed it back some.
I weigh 165 with usually 30 pounds gas & gear in back. I have 96 studs down the middle.
I put in the softer rear springs from Hygear. With my limiter strap out all the way & the front shock tightened, i could get the ski's "light" with throttle. Ski's need to be on the ground to turn, so i tightened strap one hole, but have yet to try it. I will most likely put it back.
With the softer springs i was able to use the 2nd ramp on my 4-way blocks. Last year everything was at it's lowest & still too stiff. I'm in the "window" of adjustability now.

I know more studs & power will make this LTX pick the ski's better, but i watched a STOCK 129'' Sidewinder pull a wheelie when he punched it.
This 137 just doesn't transfer at all comparatively. BUT, one more weekend of tuning & i'll be happy...

 

[DennyTuna]

I gotta respond, 18 LTX LE, here is my set up so far. Torsion blocks 1, transfer blocks 1, compression set @1 in rear, rebound is 8 clicks in from soft and center shock spring tightened 3/4" from factory setting. Front I have the compression set on 2 and rebound 8 clicks out from soft. I'm 215-220 with gear, I have to be very careful coming out of a corner from ski lift. If I use more foot pressure I can keep them down a little more but its transferring nicely so far. When I let off the gas to enter a corner the front end plants hard as well, sometimes to much bite and the ski digs in and grabs hard. Still playing around with adjustments but so far I'm finding some transfer on the LTX. A riding buddy on a 18 T-cat has his torsion spring blocks on 2 and his transfer blocks on 3, he's a little bigger than me and has different shocks as well. These shocks are amazing on the LE models, put them through a major test one day. Unplowed/ungroomed county road, about 5 miles or so and this thing was whooped out, 1/2/3 footers. I said to myself "self, lets see what these shocks are all about." Wow you could go as fast as you wanted and still be in control and not take a beating, seemed as if the faster you went the smoother it was, I was impressed!

 

[snowbeast]

Set your rear shock and torsion spring like that and you'll bottom out on every big bump tho.

You are right,as I am 250# and my springs need to be on #3 and clicker 2 w/blocks out,just trying to give him a exstreem condition,to see if he could launch,and he may be a lightweight,if not he will bottom out.