Mainjet, pilot jet, pilot screw, needle... when,where,what?

[Him]

Sitting here, wondering... badly...

At what approx. rpm ranges have the different jets, needles and so on in the carbs the most effect, ie if I drop the needle, what rpmrange (approx) would it be leanest?

Mainjet is at WOT, but then what?

Pilotscrew at low rpms, but when does the pilotjet take over?
And when does it leaves the job to the mainjet, and where do the needles come in?

 

[Turbo Tim]

first , adjust mains for best response at high r.p.m. w.o.t .................. second adjust needles for best response at w.o.t. 5-8000 rpm


Someone help me out with the rest ...........I believe pilot screws are for at idle ...............I found out that the float level is a MUST CHECK.........Mine was way off

 

[Turbo Tim]

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune ... gines.html


..........Here's what you need .............

 

[Him]

Very many thanks.

How do I check the floatlevels? Has the -04 Warrior the same setting as the -03 shorty? I.e 11mm?

 

[speedy]

Are you trying to fix a problem??

 

[Him]

Well, yes. Or rather trying to figure out what's weird with my Warrior.

If the carbs are vacuum-synced it goes like an old tractor on low RPM's and better on high rpm, if I visually sync the carbs it sounds fine on lower RPM but on higher RPM it feels weak, thus it always feel week @ 8000-9000 RPM's. I almost have to give it WOT to to hold it @ 8500-9000 rpm. Then the MPG is lousy, getting between 12-13 MPG on hardpacked trails and thats not good at all. The plugs has a grey color.

If I start the engine when it's -10 degrees Celsius I only have to choke it the first 5 seconds, after that I can turn off the choke completely and it runs fine on idle. Choke is checked. But I guess it get rich on fuel on lower RPMS. A friend of mine has an identical Warrior and he has to fiddle with the choke a long time to get it to idle when cold.

And the sad thing is... no-one seems to have a clue... So i'm trying anything and everything but I'm running out of options...

 

[speedy]

I strongly suggest a check of the TPS -- I just got back from a 50 mile run and I wish I looked into this earlier.....,710vdc to .775vdc @ idle, warm. Let me know what you find.....

 

[speedy]

Set your fuel screws to 2.0 or what ever the manual says and THEN vacuum sync. or I used the sun and visual synced mine. Make sure your pilots are clean.....let me know what the TPS reading is.

 

[Him]

The TPS reading is 0.679. I've tested the TPS according to the service manual (the manual is to an -03, but I guess the same applies to an -04 Warrior), i.e applied some voltage between 2 wires and read the value to the 3rd and checked that the value is a multply to 0.136

 

[speedy]

The output should be between .710vdc and .775vdc
with the engine off, key on and warmed up..It sounds like you need to bump up the timing...it wont take much to get it into range. I had a low reading and was chasing a couple of issues..I used a pair of straight pins and slid them into the connector with the wires,under the orings until I made contact with the terminals. Be very careful, DON'T short things out..I removed the output lines from the 2 fuel pumps and unmounted them from the frame. I could then reach the adjustment screws for the TPS..You will see a difference -- update me....

 

[Him]

Ok, Done!
Would such a change ment more advanced timing (earlier ignition)?

 

[speedy]

Did you get to take a hot lap????

 

[Him]

I was out yesterday on an 200km (125 miles) trip. I couldn't tell any difference on having the TPS adjusted to 0.74 instead of 0.679. The MPG was as bad as before, 13.5

But, I think it burned more oil with the 0.74 -setting than with the 0.679, I could imagine it, but nevertheless I did smell some oilvapor after a 1 minute WOT.