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Making ride more fun

vmxrdr

Extreme
Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
80
Predominately the posts on here are focused on engine and clutch performance. Tuned winders are really dominant in the speed category already. For proof go on doo talk and see how big a deal a 94 octane tune which requires different injectors and new drivers to go 114 mph in 1500 feet is on their forum. I don’t think they know a bone stock srx would be long gone by then. Regardless they think we will be on run from crazy fast 900ts that are coming our way. Back to my original idea.
My son and I like some mixed on and off trail and there are lots of times we find the 137” trail sleds way too flat handling combined with lack of transfer they are known for. The lack of transfer isn’t just a strictly performance issue it is a huge determinate in how fun snowmobiling is. Being able to loft skiis over a hill or obstacle is huge depending how you ride. The rather lame factory clutching and engine setup contribute greatly to the issue.
With the lack of snow we have mostly been wrenching instead of riding and think we have achieved our goal of making the sled more fun. We both have new 3 bar quick spool tunes this year that hit way harder down low than our previous powertrail setups. We have removed the transfer rods completely and by far the biggest improvement we have done is removing the extremely soft dual rate center spring in the LE skid and replacing with a much stronger single rate spring.
Glad to report the change is nothing short of a transformation. Lifts skiis at will and accelerates like crazy. Kinda sounds like a recipe for crap handling but the pro cross chassis is so flat handling as soon as you back out of throttle it plants the skiis and still turns really well. The sled is much more fun kinda like a yellow 850 works, which I am loathe to admit.
Absolutely loving difference so far!
 

Which spring? I just gotta do this now. Prolly take that RACEWERKS adjuster out Tues night. I have C&A MTX skis which are super wide and makes it corner even flatter but more effort.
Oh. Which tune also?
 
Which spring? I just gotta do this now. Prolly take that RACEWERKS adjuster out Tues night. I have C&A MTX skis which are super wide and makes it corner even flatter but more effort.
Oh. Which tune also?
I removed the rubber stoppers completely and moved the bar back about an inch .
Just in front of the rear wheels , on the original 2017 137 stretched track .
Made a big difference in transfer and fun , in addition to the 240 Hurricane tune , which also added to the snappiness .
So I put on a used replacement less stretched track , and had to move the rod back to the stock position , as the rod was hitting the wheels.
I am looking at updating my tune to the SS version of the 240 , and expect the rod to be moved back after a couple hundred miles of riding .
I added a Skidoo stiffer spring on my Star kit on my Apex XTX, and it was super fun .
I too want to know which spring to change to , as I am right on the verge of being a fun ski lifter .
 
I removed the rubber stoppers completely and moved the bar back about an inch .
Just in front of the rear wheels , on the original 2017 137 stretched track .
Made a big difference in transfer and fun , in addition to the 240 Hurricane tune , which also added to the snappiness .
So I put on a used replacement less stretched track , and had to move the rod back to the stock position , as the rod was hitting the wheels.
I am looking at updating my tune to the SS version of the 240 , and expect the rod to be moved back after a couple hundred miles of riding .
I added a Skidoo stiffer spring on my Star kit on my Apex XTX, and it was super fun .
I too want to know which spring to change to , as I am right on the verge of being a fun ski lifter .

What if you take the bar out completely? That might do it for you? No?
 
i was told that it could be tooooo much transfer for tight trail riding .

The guy who started this thread has removed the bar completely he said. Can the bar be removed by just removing the bolts and taking it out? Or do you have to loosen track and go through a lot of hassle?
 
The guy who started this thread has removed the bar completely he said. Can the bar be removed by just removing the bolts and taking it out? Or do you have to loosen track and go through a lot of hassle?
just unbolt it and slide it up and out
 
just unbolt it and slide it up and out

Ya that’s what I was thinking. So It’s easy enough to take it out completely, and try it? If it’s too radical, you bolt it right back in again...and your done.
 
I pulled my bar last year for a ride and hated it. Handled like crap but did hook up better. At 250 dressed I think I need the coupling. Maybe for you lighter guys it will be good.
 
We both have new 3 bar quick spool tunes this year that hit way harder down low than our previous powertrail setups.

Not to rain on your parade, but.... The max spool tunes are not that much different then PT....
 
I only weigh 175 lbs and wear light gear so maybe removing bar completely is too much for a heavy guy but it works really well for me, rode all season last year with it out. Biggest improvement was getting rid of the ridiculous stock center spring. The lighter rate upper part can’t contribute anything to a 600 lb plus sled when you can compress it with your hand. It ends up leaving sled with way too much ski pressure. I am running 6.9 pilots too, not sure tuners would work with spring change. We had put similar springs in nytro xtxs with great results in ride and handling, that was why we pursued finding springs.
I disagree that the latest max spool tune isn’t much different than powertrail. Outright power output might not be different but we did some back to back riding from powertrail to ms cai max 16 and it hits way harder from idle or just poking along slow like you would be on a tight trail. It is behaving more like a snotty big bore two stroke sled without the smoke or engine worries. We have addressed every issue that has been pointed out here with the chassis so we are ready for snow!
 
Don't those two flat metal pieces hit the rear wheels if you remove the transfer rod/bar and blocks? I have the Larson Racing rear axle/4 wheel kit and it seems those would hit if removed. What is the PN for the spring you used?
 
IMG_1149.jpg
Ya that’s what I was thinking. So It’s easy enough to take it out completely, and try it? If it’s too radical, you bolt it right back in again...and your done.
Here is a pic of the relocation hole . I also had some bigger pads weld on the linkage where it touches the bar .
This little change makes an uplifting difference , that can be adjusted as you choose , with adding the rubber blocks back in .
 
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Here is a pic of the relocation hole . I also had some bigger pads weld on the linkage where it touches the bar .
This little change makes an uplifting difference , that can be adjusted as you choose , with adding the rubber blocks back in .
Some guys have put a piece of rubber hose over the rod to cushion it.
 


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