tomMTX
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I finished up my Better Boards install last night, even though it's been posted before, it sure helped me to see everyones pics and install threads so I'd thought I'd share mine as well.
One of my biggest gripes about my sled is the crappy boards. Mine pack with heavy PNW snow and I spend all day kicking the snow off. Last year, toasted the soles on two pairs of boots just kicking pow out of the rails. Figured it was cheaper to install new boards than destroy boots every 3 months.
Here's my step by step REPORT:
Step 1: Drill out all the rivets from the existing rails and remove the side rails.
Step 2: Place the boards on, clamp, and trace the cut holes. You are supposed to cut 1/8" outside the marks such that the old tunnel doesn't show through. I kinda winged it after I realized that If I cut from a certain notch in the diamond on my tunnel that everything was good to go.
Step 3: Start CUTTING! This part was kinda scary. I just took it slow and kept matching up the Better Board to make sure I was on point. Crack a beer time.
Step 4: Remove that old crap! File down any sharp corners, fine tune. Cut off any raised diamonds still, bent some down with a pair of pliers. Not the best tech, but it works for me. One down! Cheers!
Step 5: Clamp down the board, mark the holes on the upper part of the tunnel. Drill some holes following the stock pattern and start to rivet.
Step 6: With the board clamped, drill a hole following stock pattern, rivet, repeat. Be sure the outside rail is firmly tapped in. I kinda blew it here on a few rivets as I got excited and drilled a bunch of holes before riveting. Definitely doing the drop bracket holes before finishing riveting the upper tunnel was a mistake.
The Better Boards ended up settling some and those drop bracket holes didn't quite line up when I finished the upper section. I'd say take it really slow, do one at a time. That's what I did with the other side and it worked a lot better.
My suggestion is start at the upper tunnel holes, drill, rivet, repeat. One at a time to ensure a tight fit.
One side down!
Repeat for next side. This one I learned from my previous minor mistakes, but my right rail was bent up pretty good from a tree magnet issue last year, so it was a lot harder to get it to fit in nice and tight.
DONE! I really like how solid they feel. Sure I'm gonna be mesmerized by them big holes first time I go out.
One of my biggest gripes about my sled is the crappy boards. Mine pack with heavy PNW snow and I spend all day kicking the snow off. Last year, toasted the soles on two pairs of boots just kicking pow out of the rails. Figured it was cheaper to install new boards than destroy boots every 3 months.
Here's my step by step REPORT:
Step 1: Drill out all the rivets from the existing rails and remove the side rails.

Step 2: Place the boards on, clamp, and trace the cut holes. You are supposed to cut 1/8" outside the marks such that the old tunnel doesn't show through. I kinda winged it after I realized that If I cut from a certain notch in the diamond on my tunnel that everything was good to go.

Step 3: Start CUTTING! This part was kinda scary. I just took it slow and kept matching up the Better Board to make sure I was on point. Crack a beer time.

Step 4: Remove that old crap! File down any sharp corners, fine tune. Cut off any raised diamonds still, bent some down with a pair of pliers. Not the best tech, but it works for me. One down! Cheers!


Step 5: Clamp down the board, mark the holes on the upper part of the tunnel. Drill some holes following the stock pattern and start to rivet.

Step 6: With the board clamped, drill a hole following stock pattern, rivet, repeat. Be sure the outside rail is firmly tapped in. I kinda blew it here on a few rivets as I got excited and drilled a bunch of holes before riveting. Definitely doing the drop bracket holes before finishing riveting the upper tunnel was a mistake.
The Better Boards ended up settling some and those drop bracket holes didn't quite line up when I finished the upper section. I'd say take it really slow, do one at a time. That's what I did with the other side and it worked a lot better.
My suggestion is start at the upper tunnel holes, drill, rivet, repeat. One at a time to ensure a tight fit.

One side down!
Repeat for next side. This one I learned from my previous minor mistakes, but my right rail was bent up pretty good from a tree magnet issue last year, so it was a lot harder to get it to fit in nice and tight.



DONE! I really like how solid they feel. Sure I'm gonna be mesmerized by them big holes first time I go out.

bholmlate
Expert
Hey TomMTX
Thanks for showing me what my sled will be looking like the first part of December. I am planning on running the same color on my '08. they look sharp.
There has been several posts on here about installing them. I have heard that the kits use rivets sparingly. Did you add any to what came with the kit or did you just use the supplied rivets. I was going to ask MOTO the same question since he just posted his install on here about 1.5 weeks ago. It looks like using the center of the first Diamond is the key to a better install with more support from the original tunnel.
did you run into any issue with lining them up? Do they feel more solid or do they feel same or less solid then the original running boards. It is funny now that all of us have made this upgrade to the earlier nytro's Yamaha has a similar thing on the '10 this year.
Thanks for showing me what my sled will be looking like the first part of December. I am planning on running the same color on my '08. they look sharp.

There has been several posts on here about installing them. I have heard that the kits use rivets sparingly. Did you add any to what came with the kit or did you just use the supplied rivets. I was going to ask MOTO the same question since he just posted his install on here about 1.5 weeks ago. It looks like using the center of the first Diamond is the key to a better install with more support from the original tunnel.
did you run into any issue with lining them up? Do they feel more solid or do they feel same or less solid then the original running boards. It is funny now that all of us have made this upgrade to the earlier nytro's Yamaha has a similar thing on the '10 this year.
Nice write-up I will get those if and when I buy Nytro MTX
r0tax
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Doo did something 'similar' in the '05+ Revs too, but it was no where near as good as Better Boards.
Cutting out each hole is definately the 'better' way to do it I think..although much more time consuming (depending on the cutting tool).
Cutting out each hole is definately the 'better' way to do it I think..although much more time consuming (depending on the cutting tool).
evil1
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I just cut the whole stock runner board right off and leave about 1/2 inch in where it turns out from the tunnel,,re-rivet the edge grip right back on them. makes the sled a touch more narrow. I also use stainless 1/4 " bolts to bolt the lower foot rail back up. I'll try and post some picks next couple days while im off
yamahamaniac
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would these boards work on an '03 rx-1 mountain? If so what's the price (Canadian dollars) and where would I be able to get them?
mtdream
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nice install good job...
I would suggest taking out the foot peg thing, and installing some rox or other tread things in the foot well area...Last year before doing this, I was slipping in the front of the board...with the Rox treads, I am rock solid now, and they add a little more support...
but definitely (IMHO) get rid of that foot-well thing....caugth my boot in it during a spill 2 years ago, and tweaked my knee pretty good...ditched it that night...
I would suggest taking out the foot peg thing, and installing some rox or other tread things in the foot well area...Last year before doing this, I was slipping in the front of the board...with the Rox treads, I am rock solid now, and they add a little more support...
but definitely (IMHO) get rid of that foot-well thing....caugth my boot in it during a spill 2 years ago, and tweaked my knee pretty good...ditched it that night...
r0tax
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mtdream said:but definitely (IMHO) get rid of that foot-well thing....caugth my boot in it during a spill 2 years ago, and tweaked my knee pretty good...ditched it that night...
I tried 1 ride w/o the footwell bars and had a hard time, personally.
I use them alot to help me 'pull' the sled over. I hook my toe under it, and pull up as I lean/pull the sled over as well. Expecially when going ski-to-ski.
I'm a lighter guy, and tend to need all the help I can get on the heavier Yamaha to "man" it around.
Scheidl
Veteran
those look awesome, crisp and clean!
Hornet Handler
Extreme
Is it just me or do those Betterboards not fit flush against the lower portion of the vertical wall of the tunnel? Looks very apparent on the right hand side.
tomMTX
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Hornet Handler said:Is it just me or do those Betterboards not fit flush against the lower portion of the vertical wall of the tunnel? Looks very apparent on the right hand side.
This is because the rear right side of my tunnel is bent up some. The other side is flush. I tried to match it up the best I could but due to a previous "tree incident" my tunnel is a little tweaked up on that side towards the rear.
As for rivets, I actually followed someone Else's suggestion from a previous Better Board install thread and used Au-ve-co 3/16 Grip Rivets in conjunction with the supplied rivets. I basically used the supplied ones on the upper tunnel wall, and the Auveco's on places where I figured I'd need more traction (like the front foot wells). I riveted from the underside such that the grip rivet would provide a little traction on top. Great tip, can't recall who it was to give proper credit at the moment, but it works great.
woodsrider
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You're welcome 

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