Need help with battery

[JasonMTX]

Im new on TY4, I have purchaced a used 2015 Viper MTX with the MPI turbo. When I bought it the battery was no good so I bought a new one for it. I have been out for a few rides and it all worked good and right till yesterday. When I went to start the viper the battery didn't have enough power to turn it over fast enough so I boosted it and off I go. I rode 50+ kms to the gas station to fill up. When I tried to start it the battery was still dead!! There were other guys there on sleds that came over to help, the one cable was loose so we tightend it up and booted from another sled and I rode stright back home. Got home and the battery was still dead when I tried to start the sled!!! I put the battery on charge for the night and it seemed to take a charge, and put it in the sled and it starts up no problem. So my question is? is the charging system working? at idle the gage is reading 12.6v and if I get the RPM's up a bit it will go to 12.9v. ??? number normal or too low?

Please help

 

[edc]

charging system should be at about 14.3 V to 14,5V when running. If starter ever went out from kick back gear tooth may have dropped into stator and damaged it. Thats what happened to mine and it was charging at 12.2 to 12.9 v

 

[JasonMTX]

That doesn't sound good. I figured it should be in the 14+ volts. Thanks for your help

 

[Mike P]

Im new on TY4, I have purchaced a used 2015 Viper MTX with the MPI turbo. When I bought it the battery was no good so I bought a new one for it. I have been out for a few rides and it all worked good and right till yesterday. When I went to start the viper the battery didn't have enough power to turn it over fast enough so I boosted it and off I go. I rode 50+ kms to the gas station to fill up. When I tried to start it the battery was still dead!! There were other guys there on sleds that came over to help, the one cable was loose so we tightend it up and booted from another sled and I rode stright back home. Got home and the battery was still dead when I tried to start the sled!!! I put the battery on charge for the night and it seemed to take a charge, and put it in the sled and it starts up no problem. So my question is? is the charging system working? at idle the gage is reading 12.6v and if I get the RPM's up a bit it will go to 12.9v. ??? number normal or too low?

Please help

Too low. See what your system voltage is when you have it jumped to another sled.

 

[JasonMTX]

Do you mean? see what the charging of another sled reads on mine or what my sled reads on a different sled?

And is there a way to test a stator with a meter?

 

[Kkurz]

I know this sled and it has crazy low miles, any way Yamaha would get behind it?

 

[JasonMTX]

The latest.. I started the sled just now and it was reading 14.3+ or - and after it ran for a few min it dropped to 12.2 + or - Any input would be appreciated.

 

[Snowfun]

12.2 volts is way to low to charge the battery. It could be the voltage regulator not allowing the voltage to run high enough to charge your battery. Check it out or take it to a dealer and get them to check it out.

 

[blueironranger]

Has it had any starter gear failures/kick back repairs before? I'm replacing my stator today because mine had a previous repair and someone didn't get all the teeth out of the pan, took over 1000 miles but one of those pieces ended up in my stator and took it out! Dropped the pan in the chassis and had just enough room to run a magnet all over the sump to get the rest out, and also seen the screens were clean over the pump intakes. Found about 3 teeth worth of junk! I kept running the magnet around the sump until it came back clean 3 passes in a row. With the hood off the sled you should be able to unplug the regulator from the nose of the sled, passenger side through the opening. Its the plug with 3 white wires, the Ohm reading should be close to the same between all 3 wires and OPEN to ground if it's good. Mine was 0.0 ohm (BAD) between the wires AND ground and physically looked damaged when I pulled the side cover off.

 

[edc]

You can test the stator voltage as well. Unplug stator plug from voltage regulator (3 pin plug). you can reach it through the nose of the sled, its on the passenger side ahead of A arm mounts. Set tester to AC voltage and do 3 test between two wire in plug from stator ie: 1and 2, 2and 3,and 1and 3.
all tests should be between 36-44 volts at 2500 to 3600 rpm for stator to be good.
this will confirm a good or bad stator according to service manual.

 

[Snowfun]

Has it had any starter gear failures/kick back repairs before? I'm replacing my stator today because mine had a previous repair and someone didn't get all the teeth out of the pan, took over 1000 miles but one of those pieces ended up in my stator and took it out! Dropped the pan in the chassis and had just enough room to run a magnet all over the sump to get the rest out, and also seen the screens were clean over the pump intakes. Found about 3 teeth worth of junk! I kept running the magnet around the sump until it came back clean 3 passes in a row. With the hood off the sled you should be able to unplug the regulator from the nose of the sled, passenger side through the opening. Its the plug with 3 white wires, the Ohm reading should be close to the same between all 3 wires and OPEN to ground if it's good. Mine was 0.0 ohm (BAD) between the wires AND ground and physically looked damaged when I pulled the side cover off.

I know of another sled that has an issue with the starter gone bad and causing damage just like this. When you start the sled and it doesn't sound right, look into the noise immediately to try to keep the damage to a minimum.

 

[JasonMTX]

Thank you for all your input. I will test the stator tomorrow. A week ago I planned a ride with a few friends to happen today so I scrambled this morning to try and get my sled to work right, I rode to the meeting spot hoping it would be ok but it wasn't. It's not charging and now when I was crossing the lake and squeezed the throttle for more than a second, the oil light blinks and I loose power to the motor?? I'm thinking and hoping it's related to the voltage issue? I really do want to like this sled.

 

[alexi]

Check reg connectors for bad contacts and with engine running Measure possible voltage drop between voltageregulator output (spike wire insulator right after regulator) and battery positive. And do same for negative. Also negative to engine chassis. There should not be any voltage drop. Oscilloscope will be nice to measuring stator output because frequency and voltage will Rise along with revs. (True RMS multimeter at least) Nice sine wave should appear in regulator input connector between ALL three wires. (Top open voltage can be over 70V for each phase.)
Some RS times genesis have positive wire t point after about 30cm after reg inside the Harness and sometimes water passed there and chargin fails after corrosion rises resistance

 

[alexi]

Thank you for all your input. I will test the stator tomorrow. A week ago I planned a ride with a few friends to happen today so I scrambled this morning to try and get my sled to work right, I rode to the meeting spot hoping it would be ok but it wasn't. It's not charging and now when I was crossing the lake and squeezed the throttle for more than a second, the oil light blinks and I loose power to the motor?? I'm thinking and hoping it's related to the voltage issue? I really do want to like this sled.

Of course when voltage drops sensor misreads can occur, also engine other sensors and when you rev harder injector current rise a bit

 

[Mike P]

Check reg connectors for bad contacts and with engine running Measure possible voltage drop between voltageregulator output (spike wire insulator right after regulator) and battery positive. And do same for negative. Also negative to engine chassis. There should not be any voltage drop. Oscilloscope will be nice to measuring stator output because frequency and voltage will Rise along with revs. (True RMS multimeter at least) Nice sine wave should appear in regulator input connector between ALL three wires. (Top open voltage can be over 70V for each phase.)
Some RS times genesis have positive wire t point after about 30cm after reg inside the Harness and sometimes water passed there and chargin fails after corrosion rises resistance

I like your approach however a person would need to have a much higher level of training to complete your trouble-shooting steps. An Oscilloscope, wow probably not on most guys work benches. He may need to start with some more basic tools and a bit of logic.
Per the manual; NOTE: The following test should be made using MaxiClips and the Fluke Model 77 Multimeter set to DC Volt scale.
This test should be made at the three-pin connector of the regulator/rectifier. NOTE: Test the connector that comes from the engine. 1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery post; then connect the black tester lead to the negative battery post. 3. With the engine running at 2500-3000 RPM, the meter must show 12-14.5 DC volts. 4. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position. 5. Test between the three yellow wires for a total of three tests. 6. With the engine running at 2500-3000 RPM, all wire tests must be within 36-44 volts. NOTE: If tests failed, check all connections, etc., and test again. If no voltage is present, replace the stator assembly. (page 131 in my shop manual, a Fluke-77 can be found on Ebay used)