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New sidewinder questions

Heffe

Lifetime Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
30
Age
54
Location
Eastern Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2012 vector
2012 apex xtx
2019 renegade 900 ace
2020 renegade 900turbo
2020 sidewinder ltx gt
1980 et 300
1987 phazer
I just picked up new non current 2020 sidewinder ltx gt. Two things I noticed and am not too sure about.
First is the ripsaw 2 track which is clipped only every second pitch. Is this normal? Will it be hard on the hyfax like this or is it not an issue?
Second is the rear idler wheels which are made entirely of plastic with no rubber on them. Will these last or should I be looking at four wheel kits with better quality idlers?
Thanks for any reply’s.
 

I just picked up new non current 2020 sidewinder ltx gt. Two things I noticed and am not too sure about.
First is the ripsaw 2 track which is clipped only every second pitch. Is this normal? Will it be hard on the hyfax like this or is it not an issue?
Second is the rear idler wheels which are made entirely of plastic with no rubber on them. Will these last or should I be looking at four wheel kits with better quality idlers?
Thanks for any reply’s.
My experience with that track is it slows you down a bit on top, it's suppose to keep snow on the sliders to minimize wear, but when there's mimimal snow it creates heat and seems to stick
 
I have that track on mine, great hook up, you do need snow for lube, I had to change hyfax at about two thousand miles, I don’t run track real tight. 1 inch slack, if you run tight hyfax it will wear way faster.
 
Rear idlers are fine in plastic. If you run studs (I wouldn’t ride without them) it will pull rubber of the smaller idlers first. The 2020 was first year with the 3 wheel rear axle so it should be fine aswell. The tri hub was a disaster.
 
If you are a trail guy I recommend scratchers!!!
It will help with slider wear and cooling.
Last season on a trip up north we ran some beautiful hard packed trails that were like concrete and the 3 guys I ran with started overheating when we started really pushing the sleds!!mine stayed cool and did not run hot at all with scratchers.
As for the plastic rear wheels I just did the bearings on them this summer I ran them for 2 season so far and they still look great.
 
If you are a trail guy I recommend scratchers!!!
It will help with slider wear and cooling.
Last season on a trip up north we ran some beautiful hard packed trails that were like concrete and the 3 guys I ran with started overheating when we started really pushing the sleds!!mine stayed cool and did not run hot at all with scratchers.
As for the plastic rear wheels I just did the bearings on them this summer I ran them for 2 season so far and they still look great.
I know the other 3 guys
 
Newbie trying to take the 2020 winder GT hood off to take a look get familiar with the sled tighten hoses do some things the forum suggest ...what a pain in the butt to get screws out and clips in position. I gave up after taking one side off. I can see the fuse box but have to disable the whole front body to change a fuse ....and then there's plastic threads... The manual says nothing about body except how to remove your seat. My ATV manual at least tells you the body push pins to remove.
 
Fuse box is in the nose, just pull the hood off. It's the black plastic box with a heavy rubber band clip. As for the panels there's been no sled with more easy to remove panels in the history of mankind! Now when it comes to the lower panels just drill out the rivets and install rivnuts and all the panels will come off slick. I have added rivnuts on the belt guard as well.
 
II think I have 4-5 hood pieces to remove to get to the fuse box. Yes the hardware is there but the access is not like two screws between two body panels. Not sure how they did it (1/4 pneumatic screw gun? . I guess it will be easier next time I'm going to try to install Pushpins for body hardware that's difficult to remove/hidden
 
If you are a trail guy I recommend scratchers!!!
It will help with slider wear and cooling.
Last season on a trip up north we ran some beautiful hard packed trails that were like concrete and the 3 guys I ran with started overheating when we started really pushing the sleds!!mine stayed cool and did not run hot at all with scratchers.
As for the plastic rear wheels I just did the bearings on them this summer I ran them for 2 season so far and they still look great.
Looks like scratchers will be next on the list. Do you run skid mounted or ski mounted scratchers? Thanks for the info
 
Dilute your factory antifreeze ( mixed to a reading of -50f on tester stock ) . Doing this will eliminate 95% of overheating problems. I have set mine to -35 to -40 f reading with water wetter mixed in . Sliders , stock sliders wear very fast to a point then stop . The DuPont sliders from Yamaha work very well with less resistance & wear , if you want to spend the money .
 
II think I have 4-5 hood pieces to remove to get to the fuse box. Yes the hardware is there but the access is not like two screws between two body panels. Not sure how they did it (1/4 pneumatic screw gun? . I guess it will be easier next time I'm going to try to install Pushpins for body hardware that's difficult to remove/hidden

You're missing something.
Take both side panels off with the 2 big plastic knobs you turn 1/4 turn.
2 D-clips on hood & slide forward.
Unhook wiring harness & fuses will be right there in the front.
Easiest in the biz.....
 
Hood comes off easy as pie, no tools needed.
Less than 30 seconds will remove both sides and hood, giving access to fuses.
 
Looks like scratchers will be next on the list. Do you run skid mounted or ski mounted scratchers? Thanks for the info

I went with brp rail mounted scratchers but I might swap for this style (see pic )
A friend of mine has them and they work well
20200628_223429.jpg
 


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