Flatlander SE
Veteran
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2008
- Messages
- 31
- Location
- Lloydminster, Alberta
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2018 Sidewinder X-TX SE
Can't wait to see the finished product. I'm thinking of the same thing for my SE.
NLVMAX
Expert
PROJECT EXT 136 CONT'
Took out the driveshaft tonight. First had to remove bolts on secondary side. This is where it will drop down and slide out. 12mm socket.
Now time to remove the bearing assembly on chain case side, then I can pluck her out. First remove this.
Removed 12mm bolts and slide out bearing.
Now I'm in business.
Took out driveshaft from secondary side and here is a pic of my Avid Drivers. For reference, 9 Tooth, 2.52 pitch, 1.0625 axle.
These puppies are no worst for wear and after my the first winter I'm 100% satisfied and experienced 0 ratcheting.
Took out the driveshaft tonight. First had to remove bolts on secondary side. This is where it will drop down and slide out. 12mm socket.
Now time to remove the bearing assembly on chain case side, then I can pluck her out. First remove this.
Removed 12mm bolts and slide out bearing.
Now I'm in business.
Took out driveshaft from secondary side and here is a pic of my Avid Drivers. For reference, 9 Tooth, 2.52 pitch, 1.0625 axle.
These puppies are no worst for wear and after my the first winter I'm 100% satisfied and experienced 0 ratcheting.
bagadonitz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
NLVMAX said:Now time to remove the bearing assembly on chain case side, then I can pluck her out. First remove this.
I believe you can remove the shaft without taking that circlip off the chain case side, fyi. If you need to remove the circlip at all (repack the bearing) easier to do it on the bench.
I learned the hard way that our local dealer doesn't bother stocking these circlips if you happen to break or bend one to the point you aren't comfortable using it.
NLVMAX
Expert
bagadonitz said:I believe you can remove the shaft without taking that circlip off the chain case side, fyi. If you need to remove the circlip at all (repack the bearing) easier to do it on the bench.
I learned the hard way that our local dealer doesn't bother stocking these circlips if you happen to break or bend one to the point you aren't comfortable using it.
You are correct bagadonitz. Circlip doesn't have to be removed to take off the bearing assembly.
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
What kind of tunnel extension are you getting...?
You say that you already had one, but you were not happy with it...?
What was wrong...?
You say that you already had one, but you were not happy with it...?
What was wrong...?
NLVMAX
Expert
Alatalo said:What kind of tunnel extension are you getting...?
You say that you already had one, but you were not happy with it...?
What was wrong...?
I have one ordered from Ulmer. Should be here next week. What I like about this one is it comes with the tunnel cap already attached. Looks like a nice clean piece.
I ordered my track, rail extensions and tunnel extension from Tracks Usa. This came as a package price. With the tunnel ext you have to use the stock tunnel cap and I just wasn't happy with how it went on. No doubt it is a quality ext, I just want one with less cut outs and fit and finish. Pricing with these guys is great. Anyone interested should check with these guys before prices go up. It was cheaper for me to buy there compared to our Can pricing.
We'll see.
Attachments
NLVMAX
Expert
REINSTALLED DRIVE SHAFT
I positioned my new track into place and slide the driveshaft in.
Slide it in the chain case side first, then lift up into place and positon the Front Axle housing on the secondary side. From here I bolted it in. Put speed sensor in place first. Then bolt top 4 bolts at torque setting of 17 ft.lb and bottom two at 22 ft.lbs.
Time to put chaincase back together. Slide Bearing housing into place and torque the 3 bolts at 17 ft.lbs. Do not over torque these.
Topshaft in order: spacer, washer, gear, washer, spacer. Done.
Reverse Idleshaft there is a washer , inside gear(I didn't remove this), outside gear, washer. Don't forget tiny spring between the gears.
Bottomshaft there is a spacer then put on gear. Install chain. Take the compression spring and fit it into collar, bolt on bottom shaft, first use some LT on threads and torque it at 40 ft.lbs.
Almost done. Time for the chain case cover. The Shift Fork can be a bit stubborn going into place. As most can contest to who have done this but with some patience it slides right into place.
You will need to hold the fork in the upper position(you can do this by the linkage) and as you slide the cover into place(half way maybe) you can lower the fork into place slowly. You know it's right when it happens easily. Then the cover slides completely on and bolt on.
Reinstall linkage and brake assembly. Check your work(shouldn't be any left overs) Add oil and pat yourself on the back. Think of the money you saved from taking it to your dealer.
Next is my Rail Extensions...
I positioned my new track into place and slide the driveshaft in.
Slide it in the chain case side first, then lift up into place and positon the Front Axle housing on the secondary side. From here I bolted it in. Put speed sensor in place first. Then bolt top 4 bolts at torque setting of 17 ft.lb and bottom two at 22 ft.lbs.
Time to put chaincase back together. Slide Bearing housing into place and torque the 3 bolts at 17 ft.lbs. Do not over torque these.
Topshaft in order: spacer, washer, gear, washer, spacer. Done.
Reverse Idleshaft there is a washer , inside gear(I didn't remove this), outside gear, washer. Don't forget tiny spring between the gears.
Bottomshaft there is a spacer then put on gear. Install chain. Take the compression spring and fit it into collar, bolt on bottom shaft, first use some LT on threads and torque it at 40 ft.lbs.
Almost done. Time for the chain case cover. The Shift Fork can be a bit stubborn going into place. As most can contest to who have done this but with some patience it slides right into place.
You will need to hold the fork in the upper position(you can do this by the linkage) and as you slide the cover into place(half way maybe) you can lower the fork into place slowly. You know it's right when it happens easily. Then the cover slides completely on and bolt on.
Reinstall linkage and brake assembly. Check your work(shouldn't be any left overs) Add oil and pat yourself on the back. Think of the money you saved from taking it to your dealer.
Next is my Rail Extensions...
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
Not trying to be Mr Know It All, but it is advisable to completely reinstall and torque everything inside the chaincase as well as the chaincase cover BEFORE applying torque to the six axle bearing housing bolts (under the secondary). The bearings in the chaincase and the chaincase cover will line up the axle and thereby decide the position of the bearing on the secondary side.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yes, I had a little nois comming from my sled after changing the track. Talked to my dealer and he asked if I bolted speedo side first? And of course I did... Loosened the bearing on speedoside and retorqued.. No more noise!
GT03235
Expert
Awesome thread
NLVMAX
Expert
Rail Ext from Tracks USA 121-136
Here are some pics of my rail extensions being installed.
First I removed the rear axle and components. Lots of spacers and washers to keep track of here. Remove the slides and start drilling out the rivet heads on the track adjusters. Center punch comes in handy.
Re install the track adjusters on extension.
Pic of rail ext Installed All holes lined up perfect. Extra holes had to be drilled in rails for proper mounting.
Installed other side and re-installed the rear Axle. (Make sure all spacers and washers are installed correctly)
Now time to put on the new longer slides. Finally got them from the local dealer. Very easy to do with the suspension out. Just need a small tap to get hyfax on over the bend up front in rail.
Use medium tread locker on screws and install them to keep slides in place.
I added a 4th wheel to the mix as well.
I will update with the tunnel ext install soon.
Here are some pics of my rail extensions being installed.
First I removed the rear axle and components. Lots of spacers and washers to keep track of here. Remove the slides and start drilling out the rivet heads on the track adjusters. Center punch comes in handy.
Re install the track adjusters on extension.
Pic of rail ext Installed All holes lined up perfect. Extra holes had to be drilled in rails for proper mounting.
Installed other side and re-installed the rear Axle. (Make sure all spacers and washers are installed correctly)
Now time to put on the new longer slides. Finally got them from the local dealer. Very easy to do with the suspension out. Just need a small tap to get hyfax on over the bend up front in rail.
Use medium tread locker on screws and install them to keep slides in place.
I added a 4th wheel to the mix as well.
I will update with the tunnel ext install soon.
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
Keep em coming! This could be a book on how to do things the right way. Nice finish, craftsmanship, and quality parts.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
sheetwright said:Keep em coming! This could be a book on how to do things the right way. Nice finish, craftsmanship, and quality parts.
Very true. However, it is severely lacking in bikini clad models (of the female variety) to highlight said features. And, for this reason I give the string a 7 out of ten star rating.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,356
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
NLVMAX - Great project
I have moved the thread to the TY4Stroke Sled Garage forum where it belongs, but I left a shadow copy so it's still to be found in the FX Nytro General forum.
rxrider
TY Management
I have moved the thread to the TY4Stroke Sled Garage forum where it belongs, but I left a shadow copy so it's still to be found in the FX Nytro General forum.
rxrider
TY Management
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