Beauryan Best
Extreme
Sad Story. Gf's brother smashed my superbuilt P 660 longstroke Rush, New Years Night (not drunk), replaced the frame and he traded me a no start Viper to fix.
Story goes,
"Viper was running last summer and one day stopped. Replaced the starter, starter solenoid, battery, clutch, fluids, and ran like a top."
I, New relays, fuses, inspected wiring, ohmed wiring (good), new plugs (dry\clean), Cranks, no start. Stuck in Reverse via dash w no PWR to actuator. No spark and no fuel prime, fuel pump works with external V. (Visually inspected, good.). Basically all RED/BLU Regulated DC PWR is SOL, $20 replacement Regulator on the way.
Checked just about everything wire/sensor related with fluke 87 multimeter, everything ohms out, and I now know the electronics diagram pretty well over the last few days. Everything works!!!
Stator is OL to GRD (fantastic), ohms out at .3 though - min max is like .19-.2x ohms (was 10°F)... Heard the starter can chew up and magnetize the particles to the stator & coils... Making a higher resistance? Ruling it out for now, farfetched, but open minded...
Tested my ECU in a rudimentary style. Multimeter/ohms\beep. Some funky stuff going on.
Tested every pin to every GRD sequence, should be 100% no grounded pins otherwise, 100% OL, and all my Problem* systems (pins) are connected to GRD. Beeping. Should be OL I'd assume...
Listing:
Speed sensor
Stepper motor#1
Stepper motor#3
Fuel pump relay
Relay Voltage/ ORG wire which powers damn near everything; including the Coils = No Spark. Reverse. IAC. Fuel. And some more. Common with fried ECus I'dassume.I,
Is this ECU fried???
What is going on???
... Kinda curious if it got jump started backwards polarity.
Haven't tested IAC. Tempted to pull off, clean, and actuate it but I know that can cause problems via what the manual says, "dont do it." Ohmed oit ok from what i could tell.
Story goes,
"Viper was running last summer and one day stopped. Replaced the starter, starter solenoid, battery, clutch, fluids, and ran like a top."
I, New relays, fuses, inspected wiring, ohmed wiring (good), new plugs (dry\clean), Cranks, no start. Stuck in Reverse via dash w no PWR to actuator. No spark and no fuel prime, fuel pump works with external V. (Visually inspected, good.). Basically all RED/BLU Regulated DC PWR is SOL, $20 replacement Regulator on the way.
Checked just about everything wire/sensor related with fluke 87 multimeter, everything ohms out, and I now know the electronics diagram pretty well over the last few days. Everything works!!!
Stator is OL to GRD (fantastic), ohms out at .3 though - min max is like .19-.2x ohms (was 10°F)... Heard the starter can chew up and magnetize the particles to the stator & coils... Making a higher resistance? Ruling it out for now, farfetched, but open minded...
Tested my ECU in a rudimentary style. Multimeter/ohms\beep. Some funky stuff going on.
Tested every pin to every GRD sequence, should be 100% no grounded pins otherwise, 100% OL, and all my Problem* systems (pins) are connected to GRD. Beeping. Should be OL I'd assume...
Listing:
Speed sensor
Stepper motor#1
Stepper motor#3
Fuel pump relay
Relay Voltage/ ORG wire which powers damn near everything; including the Coils = No Spark. Reverse. IAC. Fuel. And some more. Common with fried ECus I'dassume.I,
Is this ECU fried???
What is going on???
... Kinda curious if it got jump started backwards polarity.
Haven't tested IAC. Tempted to pull off, clean, and actuate it but I know that can cause problems via what the manual says, "dont do it." Ohmed oit ok from what i could tell.
Attachments
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Stator is OL to ground. What is OL? If it means one or all the 3 legs are grounded right there is the problem. Might try disconnecting stator and seeing if some function returns. May even run. Never tried myself. Keep in mind it sounds like this sled had a kickback starter gear failure and they didn’t clean out all the pieces. Eventually some made it to stator and flywheel. Turning motor over will damage flywheel and you will end up buying one of those too.
Beauryan Best
Extreme
I still havent visually checked the Stator unfortunately, only had this thing a week, and found a stripped star bit holding the chain case on... Someone offered me an ECU for $220 and might buy it today given what I think I found. I'm not ruling out the stator and I should definately look into it before I crank it over again.
What3s the deal with these "kickbacks" on the 2014 reverse and ECU updates? I've recently heard of it and I can't find much information on it. What are these symptoms? I recieved the Viper with no reverse actuator and that worries me. Borrowing a revers act. from a TZ1, works but doesnt when I plug it in and a kickback would make a ton of sense. Reverse button ohms out, good wires, new fuses relays, and no power... Wiring diagram: ECU controls the FWD RVS relays, is supposed to open up the relays to PWR the F/R Actuator, but those ECU + pins are internally Grounded (according to theory = not good, bad ecu?).
I didn't get anything of a back story on this machine. I would* take it to a dealer but I'm way up in Northern Alaska... Takes 2 weeks to get anything in PO Box, gotta be careful what we order, and we have to fix our own stuff. Thanks for the reply.
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Search the FAQ at top of the viper section for kickback issues. Pretty sure if not grounded your stator is not causing this. I assume you checked the fuses?
Beauryan Best
Extreme
That's kinda what I was thinking and will still check the stator asap for FOD. Fuses are all new and relays are replaced with Sealed.
Fuse box is tested with multimeter, all my bad pins lead to ECU, and almost all of which provides PWR to my nonfunctioning items
Fuse box is tested with multimeter, all my bad pins lead to ECU, and almost all of which provides PWR to my nonfunctioning items
Beauryan Best
Extreme
I said screw it and got a used ECU on the way, won't be here for a while unfortunately but atleast I'm getting it for $225.
Same Part #s.
I asked the guy, "Any idea if this came from a running sled, how many hours/miles, and if it had a reverse update?"
He replied,
"Yes it came off my running sled it had 1000 miles on it I put an evo flashed one on because I was running a turbo and needed more fuel so I had them flash a brand new one for my kit and they raised the rev limiter and backed the timing down so I could run more boost so this is the stock one off my sled."
Same Part #s.
I asked the guy, "Any idea if this came from a running sled, how many hours/miles, and if it had a reverse update?"
He replied,
"Yes it came off my running sled it had 1000 miles on it I put an evo flashed one on because I was running a turbo and needed more fuel so I had them flash a brand new one for my kit and they raised the rev limiter and backed the timing down so I could run more boost so this is the stock one off my sled."
Beauryan Best
Extreme
Update, It was the ECU
Thanks for Update. Glad you figured it out.
Beauryan Best
Extreme
Thanks, big sigh of relief to hear it purr the first time but now that its running I did an oil change... Barely had any oil... Just when I was excited to go ride, more issues.
Added oil and it just started pouring out the resevoir/chaincase gasket/seal... Noticed it was missing screws and the gasket sealant was pealing off\out. Big mess in the shop lol. Expensive oil.
Chaincase has missing and stripped screws too (leaks)!
Worst part is while going slow my l/h extractor kit made a screw even more stuck. Carbide tip broke into the screw
!!!
I recall the previous owner saying that someone changed the track out = someone did a shitty job on the case. Probably reused the chaincase gasket, used wrong sealant, and over torqued/stripped/lost half the hardware.
Such a nightmare headache.
Makes me wonder what else is wrong with it.
Takes two weeks to get parts flown in.
Added oil and it just started pouring out the resevoir/chaincase gasket/seal... Noticed it was missing screws and the gasket sealant was pealing off\out. Big mess in the shop lol. Expensive oil.
Chaincase has missing and stripped screws too (leaks)!
Worst part is while going slow my l/h extractor kit made a screw even more stuck. Carbide tip broke into the screw
!!!I recall the previous owner saying that someone changed the track out = someone did a shitty job on the case. Probably reused the chaincase gasket, used wrong sealant, and over torqued/stripped/lost half the hardware.
Such a nightmare headache.
Makes me wonder what else is wrong with it.
Takes two weeks to get parts flown in.
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74Nitro
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
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- Age
- 52
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- Dublin Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
Sometimes people think the oil tank has to come off to take the chaincase apart.
Oh Man!Thanks, big sigh of relief to hear it purr the first time but now that its running I did an oil change... Barely had any oil... Just when I was excited to go ride, more issues.
Added oil and it just started pouring out the resevoir/chaincase gasket/seal... Noticed it was missing screws and the gasket sealant was pealing off\out. Big mess in the shop lol. Expensive oil.
Chaincase has missing and stripped screws too (leaks)!
Worst part is while going slow my l/h extractor kit made a screw even more stuck. Carbide tip broke into the screw
I recall the previous owner saying that someone changed the track out = someone did a shitty job on the case. Probably reused the chaincase gasket, used wrong sealant, and over torqued/stripped/lost half the hardware.
Such a nightmare headache.
Makes me wonder what else is wrong with it.
Takes two weeks to get parts flown in.
