Nyper build thread

[Nikolai]

After failing to build my own inner wheel kit last year I found the BDX kit for $80 shipped from Speed Addicts so I bought it.

There was more play than I like so I turned down the spacers a little bit to where the factory steel washers would fit and took 75% of the play out.

42.4 lbs. Heavy, but I know if I used factory rails they would bend so it is what it is. The QS3 shocks add some weight over regular Floats but the ride quality is probably worth it. Once the sled is completely done I might make an attempt at fabbing some Ti arms for it to get it under 40 lbs.

 

[Nikolai]

Need opinions.

I’ve always had doubts about the snap ring setup I made due to the side load from the driven clutch slamming open.

Here is what I’ve been thinking of doing. Cutting end of the shaft a fuzz shorter then the end of gear, hand tapping 14mm x 1.5 threads (same as clutch bolt) and then clamping the gear with a M14 x 1.5 x 25 Titanium motorcycle spindle bolt. Anyone see a reason that won’t work?

 

[Brotherdan]

Need opinions.

I’ve always had doubts about the snap ring setup I made due to the side load from the driven clutch slamming open.
View attachment 169278

Here is what I’ve been thinking of doing. Cutting end of the shaft a fuzz shorter then the end of gear, hand tapping 14mm x 1.5 threads (same as clutch bolt) and then clamping the gear with a M14 x 1.5 x 25 Titanium motorcycle spindle bolt. Anyone see a reason that won’t work?
View attachment 169279

Im not sure how hard that shaft is?cutting it shorter with a lathe shouldn’t be an issue, just not sure how hand tapping the threads would go?maybe tap the threads on the lathe after you shorten it?otherwise seems like it would be a much stronger way to retain the gear

 

[74Nitro]

A 3.5lb steering system is so laughable compared to my Apex LOL Well done!

True that. The Apex/RX steering layout was a bit ridiculous. A boat load of moving parts - added weight and added cost! It's too bad it hadn't been more rider forward from the start, the post should have been between the throttle bodies in front of engine. But that's a whole separate thread.

 

[74Nitro]

I agree.



I agree.

The blue location is only absorbing a direct impact onto the a-arm itself. The lever countering that twist is a very short segment of that cross tube that holds the rear a-arm pivot (the front half looks very strong). If the a-arms are made of similar material the likelihood of that short piece bending vs the longer arms in the a-arm is low. Without the brace the exposed arm there is very short making it very resistant to bending as is, and the entirety of that short piece could probably be just as supported with an overlapping gusset to make it stiffer. Looking at it in the reverse the mass of the sled in the wrong situation is driving through the long tube of the upper pillar section. That tube will give before either the short arm or the short cross tube.

If you are unsure, leave it there. If you want to split the difference, replace it with a lighter triangular flat plate, but I think you are safe to remove it.

Agree with your last sentence. It should be noted that the 2007 Yamaha phazers would bend in this area from the impact created from hard bottoming of the shock. But Nikolai has a cross member that should prevent that. Yamaha then added more material on later phazers to prevent bending.

 

[Nikolai]

Framing is being left as is, consulted an engineer buddy and his advice was to leave it alone.

I ordered the spindle bolt and a thread tap this morning. Going to try tapping threads in the jackshaft and see how it goes.

 

[Nikolai]

Im not sure how hard that shaft is?cutting it shorter with a lathe shouldn’t be an issue, just not sure how hand tapping the threads would go?maybe tap the threads on the lathe after you shorten it?otherwise seems like it would be a much stronger way to retain the gear

My lathe is too small to fit the shaft inside, bore on the chuck is only 3/4”. Threads will have to be cut by hand. My plan was to make a spacer to go over the end of the jackshaft with a hole just big enough to fit the tap to help keep it straight while tapping the first few threads.

 

[Brotherdan]

My lathe is too small to fit the shaft inside, bore on the chuck is only 3/4”. Threads will have to be cut by hand. My plan was to make a spacer to go over the end of the jackshaft with a hole just big enough to fit the tap to help keep it straight while tapping the first few threads.

Oh I did remember after you posted that you had a lathe but it was size limited,Will be easy enough to try it by hand & you will be able to feel how it’s threading & if it doesn’t feel right then look into getting someone to machine thread it

 

[Nikolai]

Can you elaborate on “doesn’t feel right”? Just if it’s really difficult or will it not cut the threads properly? Is there something specific I should be paying attention to when tapping?

 

[Brotherdan]

Can you elaborate on “doesn’t feel right”? Just if it’s really difficult or will it not cut the threads properly? Is there something specific I should be paying attention to when tapping?

Yes im not sure how

Can you elaborate on “doesn’t feel right”? Just if it’s really difficult or will it not cut the threads properly? Is there something specific I should be paying attention to when tapping?

sorry bud I got busy at work, yes I just meant if you started threading it by hand& the tap was going really hard& not cutting the threads good that you may have to do it by machine, ive had trouble in the past trying to get good threads cut by hand on really hard materials.Again im not sure how hard the shaft is but you will be able to tell if it is going ok or if its too hard of material to cut by hand

 

[earthling]

My lathe is too small to fit the shaft inside, bore on the chuck is only 3/4”. Threads will have to be cut by hand. My plan was to make a spacer to go over the end of the jackshaft with a hole just big enough to fit the tap to help keep it straight while tapping the first few threads.

We used to just tack some nuts on top of some flat stock (hole predrilled) to make a jig. The nuts already put you in a position where you know that everything is straight and well aligned. It also made the thread starts repeatable as you move the jig from piece to piece.

 

[Nikolai]

That’s a great idea, I could tack weld a nut to the end of the jackshaft. My plan was to thread it before cutting the end off anyway.

 

[Nikolai]

Cut the rear suspension mount tubes at an angle to reduce weight.

And drilled a hole in the lower steering post bushing mount to match the upper and reduce weight. I don’t think there’s anything else I can do to drop weight from the frame.

Had some surface rust from sitting. Wire brushed all the welds then wiped the entire frame down with Acetone. It’s back in the jig now. Bolting the motor in tonight, then it’s on to the header and turbo mounts, charge tube, oil tank ect, lots of little stuff.

34.5 lbs so far

 

[cannondale27]

Sidewinders and Vipers just use a clip to hold gear on and my bet is you will do a much better job keeping the gears in line and Parallel than the Car factory who does them can even dream of doing in production. Leave the clip.

 

[Nikolai]

Sidewinders and Vipers just use a clip to hold gear on and my bet is you will do a much better job keeping the gears in line and Parallel than the Car factory who does them can even dream of doing in production. Leave the clip.

Nytro just uses a clip as well but the clutch side has the bearing pressed on the shaft that’s held in place in the bearing housing.

Factory Apex bearing setup has a taper lock that locks it to the jackshaft as well. My clutch side bearing is a regular bearing with lock ring, so in theory, the only thing resisting force when the clutch opens is the lock ring and snap ring on the gear.

Do you think that will be an issue?

I have the 14x1.5 tap & Ti bolt on the way so they’ve already been purchased but I can certainly leave the snap ring.