• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Nytro Starting Issues - Relay

nytroxtx17

Newbie
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
24
Location
Barrie, Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2018 Sidewinder LTX SE
Ran into starting issues with my 09 Nytro XTX at about 3200kms, and wanted to pass along what I learned in the process. The starter relay near the battery (solenoid) had green corrossion on the terminals where the white connector plugs into it. The corrossion was significant, so I replaced the relay and put di-electric grease on the terminals to help prevent it. Definitely grease the starter relay terminals at the start of the season, and I would also recommend checking it a couple times a season especially if you are doing a lot of powder riding off trail. Also, I found out there is a service bulletin out for the relays potentially freezing (located in front of the airbox). Three of the relays are the same type, and in 2011 Yamaha issued a new relay that plugs into the same connectors which I replaced all three. The relay is actually taller and it fits in fine, just get new plastic holders. Removing the old relays is a fair amount of work, I didn't have to remove the airbox, but was able to lift it slightly to get enough room to replace them. It took me about 5 hours of messing around to get them all done (and some skinned knuckles), I ended up snapping the plastic holder tabs to remove the old relays. I have seen some comments about putting a screen over the vents close to the battery to keep the snow out of that area. Likely something I'll look at doing as well.
The Nytro is an awesome sled, this is a nuisance issue that could have been prevented through better design. Luckily I was in my garage when it happened, not on the trail in the middle of nowhere... Yamaha should cover the cost for this, especially if you are not a do it yourself person and get dinged with several hours of labour. A brand new sled shouldn't have these types of issues in year two of ownership, this is why I bought Yamaha in the first place and ditched Ski-Doo. On the bright side, I'd rather do this than be replacing crank bearings...
 

If you're on the trail and the starter relay goes out, you can jump start the sled with a pair of pliers. I had to do it for an entire ride a couple weeks ago until I could get a new relay from the dealer.
 
Nikolai said:
Hold pliers against the two little bolt heads(pull back the rubber boots) on the relay and it will start.

I used to have to do that on my 73 Scamp
 
You can also hold the key for usually 30seconds to 2mins and it will fire also.The realay will warm um enough with the amps going through it.
 
2011 Nytro with Relay Issue

Yamaha made a fix to the relays for 2011, which I installed into my 2009 Nytro as I mentioned above. A friend of mine has a 2011 Nytro and it's fuel injection relay froze on a -27 celcius night (with a good windchill). Took the first relay out, warmed it up in his hand and it fired right up.

Yamaha engineering, you may still have an open issue with the relays....It might be a one in a thousand, but it happened.
 
My 2010 XTX would not start on friday night after a day of playing in the powder. It flashed code 43 (fuel pump relay) it was -25 C 2:30 in the morning and I was in the middle of nowhere. I tried to pull the relay but its in a heck of a spot. After much deliberation the decision was made that one might "relieve" himself on the relays. Worked like a charm!
 
farmac said:
My 2010 XTX would not start on friday night after a day of playing in the powder. It flashed code 43 (fuel pump relay) it was -25 C 2:30 in the morning and I was in the middle of nowhere. I tried to pull the relay but its in a heck of a spot. After much deliberation the decision was made that one might "relieve" himself on the relays. Worked like a charm!

LOL - brilliant !
What better way to deal with a "Piss Poor" relay setup.
;)!
 
Nikolai said:
Hold pliers against the two little bolt heads(pull back the rubber boots) on the relay and it will start.

I would love to see a vid of that.
 
Instead of removing the relay to warm it up, just leave the key on and tap on it with a pocket knife or screwdriver. Usually after one or thwo taps the fuel pump will kick in and you are good to go. This has worked every time for me. It just has to jar the relay enough to break it free. It will save skinning your knuckles.
 
Nikolai said:
Hold pliers against the two little bolt heads(pull back the rubber boots) on the relay and it will start.

If you need to use this option, be prepared for some serious arcing and sparking, and don't use a tool you are fussy about. Also - make sure the pliers or screwdriver you use have an insulated handle.
 
Old Thumper said:
Nikolai said:
Hold pliers against the two little bolt heads(pull back the rubber boots) on the relay and it will start.

If you need to use this option, be prepared for some serious arcing and sparking, and don't use a tool you are fussy about. Also - make sure the pliers or screwdriver you use have an insulated handle.

I've been doing it for the past few weeks, no problems.

My relay started going and I wasn't sure what the problem was. Started by tightening the terminals on the battery. As nytro111 said, the relay will eventually warm up enough that it will work, so at first I thought it was a battery issue. The next time it wouldn't start and I knew the terminals were tight I put the battery on the charger. Still didn't work, so I tried crossing the terminals and away it went.

The issue with mine was, I was under the mistaken belief that once the relay was gone, it was gone, so I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start sometimes, but started no problem other times. I came to find out that the relay starts getting bad and just won't work when it's cold.

Anyway, I did pick up a new relay, and they're only cheap. Haven't gotten around to putting it on yet, since it usually starts, and I have the screen above the relay removed so I can start it without removing the side-pod using pliers as someone mentioned.
 


Back
Top