Offseason Storage

[SAB1]

Pretty much done here for the season and I did a quick search but didnt turn up much so a couple questions after reading manual:

Says to add stabilizer to the fuel and then drain system. Do most of you completely drain the fuel? If so do you then run the machine until the carbs are dry? Why would we need stabilzer work if everything is being drained ?

Says to use fogging oil. Where are you putting it in, pulling the air cleaner and down the air cleaner throat? Really cant run the carbs dry if foggin out like an outboard motor.

Keep the battery on a tender periodically during off season?

Naturally I will change oil & filter.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Gone Blue]

If you havent already, use the search feature on here. There are a large number of threads on this topic. I think you will find answers to most all your questions with a little searching.

I run my sled with Stabil then drain the carb float bowls. I find that even with fuel stabilizer, if I dont drain the float bowls, the pilot jets plug up.

G.B.

 

[SAB1]

I tried the search prior to posting the questions. I must not conduct searches correctly becuase I turned up nothing. For Keywords is used "offseason storage" or "storage" and for Forums I used "RS General Talk" and "all Available". I got a bunch of threads back none them had info on my questions.

I am new to this site so likely I am not doing correctly. One thing I have not found on this site is a Tech/Maintenance Section. I have a Suzuki S83 (f/n/a as an Intruder) Motorcyle and a Tundra truck and use IntruderAlertCafe and TundraTalk sites regularly. Each of these sites have areas where you can go to for your specifc model and find various step by step directions with photos for each task for idiots like me to perform various routine maintenance from changing oil, to bleeding clutch & brakes lines rejetting carbs, redoing brakes, clutch replacment etc. Has saved me a ton of money.

 

[deerhunter1]

There was a lot of posts on this in the past but I cant remember the nane ,
I take the fuel lines off at the pump plug them with a golf tee run the gas out of the carbs then I take plugs out an drop a small amout of oil down the holes turn over by hand, but next year you will have to blow into the vent line or feed the carbs out of a bottle like me to get the gas up to the carbs .Steve

 

[deerhunter1]

I also spray everything down with wd40 .

 

[SAB1]

Thanks Deerhunter. Like your handle. I spend every spare second I have from 9/15-12/31 in my treestand with bow in hand. The snowmobile is my new toy to kill the downtime after deer season ends. I see your from CT. Good hunting down there. One of the few staes in NE I have not ventured to.

 

[grizztracks]

similar topic in the Nytro section: http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=100725

 

[CaptCaper]

I thought someone said FI doesn't clog like carbs would.
My VMax 600 triple has been cloggin up idle jets for the past 2 seasons while sitting.
I added Marine stabil last season and still did it. My Attak with FI has been fine.
I may drain the bowls on the VMax this time. Just got to figure out if there is a way without pulling them off.

 

[APEX 06]

Here's a link to the tech pages. http://www.totallyamaha.com/Totallyamah ... Index.html



then just click on the snowmobile tech.

 

[deerhunter1]

I never take the carbs off to get at bowls we have 2 700 we just take the gas out of the tank and run them dry have been doing it that way for 20years .never had a cloged jet .STEVE

 

[Irv]

All I did last year was put in some Sea-Foam (in the gas) and made sure I started the sled at least once every 4-5 weeks.

I know everyone doesn't have this option due to storage issues but it worked for me.

If I didn't have the this option, I would still use Sea-Foam obviously, remove the battery and put it on a battery tender(they only use electricity and charge when req'd) fog the engine, wash,(spray clean water in the suspension areas) then spray everything down(suspension front and rear) with Rust Check or Krown rust preventive spray, clean and wax the sled, change the oil and filter as well as the gear case(imo, you don't want used oil, which can accumulate acids, sitting in the engine during the off season when not in use)
Try and raise the front and rear suspensions off the ground, use ample amounts of Moth Balls, Bounce Sheets, Irish Spring bars of soap etc to keep the mice away, cover the sled with a bed sheet then your cover and try periodically to check on things during the off season.

IMO, WD-40 is not a good product to use to protect the metal parts, it contains no silicone and therefore does not last long enough, plus it disolves grease which can wreak havoc on your idler wheel bearings and other greasable components.

There are other things you can do as well and I am probably missing some but this basically covers them for me.

 

[SAB1]

Irv. Sounds like you covered the bases I was going to do. Definately agree on changing the oil. Dirty oil sitting in there is not good. Quick question, To Fog out the engine on the Venture where are you blowing in? Thru the air box throat?

I see posts in other threads where people say they fog the engine and then run the gas out of the carbs until the engine dies. There is no way to do that when you fog an engine.

 

[Crazy Canuk]

SAB,

I would remove the airbox cover and fog right down the carbs. Once you have done that, drain the float bowls.

 

[Irv]

Irv. Sounds like you covered the bases I was going to do. Definately agree on changing the oil. Dirty oil sitting in there is not good. Quick question, To Fog out the engine on the Venture where are you blowing in? Thru the air box throat?

I see posts in other threads where people say they fog the engine and then run the gas out of the carbs until the engine dies. There is no way to do that when you fog an engine.

Sab, I would do as Crazy Canuk suggests, just remove the whole air box and then drain the carbs.

There is no possible way to fog the engine properly if you decide to run the engine out of gas afterwards, the fog would all be burned off if you did it that way.

With my XLT, I shut the gas valve off and wait a few minutes before fogging the engine, when the engine dies because of the fogging(proper way to fog actually) that's it, I just siphon out the gas tank and call it a season. (My gas gets Sea-Foamed and run first for 10 minutes before doing this) imo, there is no possible way to get "ALL" the gas out and fogged at the same time(if doing it properly)

 

[SAB1]

Thanks guys. Agreed on the fogging. I have done so many outboards I know it is impossible to burn the carbs dry if your fogging. Kinda made me chuckle when I read it in some posts I searched on. The foggin should cut the engine out. I will have to look into draining the carbs after I fog it as I have never done that and not sure how to do.

Ethanol in the gas is one of the most controversial things I have ever encountered when storing boats etc. I have never seen so much conflicting info. I have never run the carbs dry in anything but my chainsaw and only do that as it can sit 9 months without use. Everything else, motorcycle, I/O boat, outboard, lawnmowers, leaf blower etc I just add Stabiler or Startron, fog where applicable and leave it. I have not yet had any issues, knock on wood.