Oil filter access plate screw heads stripped

[troverman]

Guys, I jacked up my sled to remove the two screws which keep the oil filter access door shut. Both screw heads have stripped to where nothing turns them, even trying to hammer a torx bit in. What should I do to remove them? What are the replacements in case I destroy these?

 

[theCATman]

Drill and tap new size.

 

[theCATman]

Wait... you stripped the heads, or threads??

Try cutting a slot in them with a zip cutting wheel to accommodate a flat head screwdriver. If that's a no go, drill & tap new.

 

[troverman]

Thanks. The heads are stripped, threads are fine.

 

[Mooseman]

I'd drill them with a bit that's a little larger than the bolt heads and remove the heads just enough to remove the door or use a grinder to grind them off. With the stubs still left in there you should be able to grab with vice-grips to unscrew them. This should avoid you having to drill and tap to another size. Use stainless bolts as replacements with some antiseize.

 

[maim]

if you have left hand drill bits, i would use those to drill the head off as you could get lucky and it grabs and pulls the screw out.

 

[Confused]

Wait... you stripped the heads, or threads??

Try cutting a slot in them with a zip cutting wheel to accommodate a flat head screwdriver. If that's a no go, drill & tap new.

From what the OP described, this is what I would do. No need to drill.

 

[smokingcrater]

EZ out. Will take you maybe a minute tops. Every shop absolutely needs a set!

 

[troverman]

Just an update - I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and was able to cut decent slots into the heads. I found a heavy duty screw driver that fit pretty well. One bolt came out. The second one had a nice fit, but with all the leverage I could get, I simply couldn't budge it. I am not a weak person, it just was in there incredibly tightly. At this point the sled was jacked up with a floor jack and a brace under the front skis. With the screwdriver held tightly in place, I had an assistant lower the jack slowly until the weight of the sled rested on the screwdriver. Then, using a pipe wrench on the screwdriver grip, gradually applying more force, the bolt abruptly broke free. I was amazed at both how much force it took to get it to break free, and the fact that the bolt head didn't break off. In the end I was able to reuse both bolts, no drilling required.

Thanks for the tips. Now just need to get reverse somehow adjusted to actually stay engaged and not pop out and grind. Big snow appears to be coming in a few days, and I want to be ready.

 

[maim]

reverse adjustment procedure.

no reverse 2015 apex

2015 apex reverse not engaging spins n grinds

ty4stroke.com

 

[Snorunner]

I put anti seize on mine when I put them back in.

 

[troverman]

Thanks maim. I have the owner's manual since I have owned this sled since it had 42 miles on it; hopefully that adjustment procedure works. Going to work on it perhaps tonight.

 

[CaptCaper]

Just an update - I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and was able to cut decent slots into the heads. I found a heavy duty screw driver that fit pretty well. One bolt came out. The second one had a nice fit, but with all the leverage I could get, I simply couldn't budge it. I am not a weak person, it just was in there incredibly tightly. At this point the sled was jacked up with a floor jack and a brace under the front skis. With the screwdriver held tightly in place, I had an assistant lower the jack slowly until the weight of the sled rested on the screwdriver. Then, using a pipe wrench on the screwdriver grip, gradually applying more force, the bolt abruptly broke free. I was amazed at both how much force it took to get it to break free, and the fact that the bolt head didn't break off. In the end I was able to reuse both bolts, no drilling required.

Thanks for the tips. Now just need to get reverse somehow adjusted to actually stay engaged and not pop out and grind. Big snow appears to be coming in a few days, and I want to be ready.

next time try using heat to it. You can try a portable torch or buy the oxygen and map gas kit from home depot for real hot heat.

 

[troverman]

Keep in mind the plates underneath are aluminum, so heating can't be much. Definitely not going to use oxyaccetelene. Portable map gas torch maybe, but that plate will flex quickly under heat.

 

[theCATman]

Keep in mind the plates underneath are aluminum, so heating can't be much. Definitely not going to use oxyaccetelene. Portable map gas torch maybe, but that plate will flex quickly under heat.

Not to mention the plastic surrounding the screws.

Now if you have antiseize on them(which i sure hope you do), I don't foresee anymore issues.