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Oil on floor under Sidewinder

I ordered the BoP gasket as well and will put in on this Fall for service with the roll over oil bypass kit.
 

The key is to clean the surfaces of oil really well.
Install the "Gasket Maker" of whatever brand. Don't skimp here, a little extra won't hurt.
Tighten to 5 ft/lbs then wait an hour then re-torque to 10
I think I replaced Torx bolts with Hex for more accurate Torquing. Criss-cross pattern like a head gasket.

DO NOT ADD OIL FOR 24 HOURS

"Right Stuff" will actually glue it together & it's hard to get apart later.
BUT it works!

I did 5 this way & NONE leaked again...................EVER
 
I would also like to add that my "Under the Muffler Fire Starter Pad" actually caught on fire.
Luckily I caught it early.
I removed it & put heat tape down there
 
The key is to clean the surfaces of oil really well.
Install the "Gasket Maker" of whatever brand. Don't skimp here, a little extra won't hurt.
Tighten to 5 ft/lbs then wait an hour then re-torque to 10
I think I replaced Torx bolts with Hex for more accurate Torquing. Criss-cross pattern like a head gasket.

DO NOT ADD OIL FOR 24 HOURS

"Right Stuff" will actually glue it together & it's hard to get apart later.
BUT it works!

I did 5 this way & NONE leaked again...................EVER
"The key is to clean the surfaces of oil really well."
IMO, this is the critical step when using ANY gasket sealer. I use acetone a few times. I always wait 24 hrs before adding oil.
Been doing this way for 5 years and never have had a leak. Zero. Dry.
 
The first couple years with the SideWinder I had dealers do the work.
Every time I'd have a drip leak.
THEN I did the "Right Stuff" technique and BANG!!!!
No runs--No drips--No errors (commercial quote)

My bud bought the sled & when he went to remove the oil cover, he struggled.
He spent some time to get it apart.
Now he leaves it "glued" on to the chain case

P.S: Can anyone name the Commercial?............without looking it up
 
The first couple years with the SideWinder I had dealers do the work.
Every time I'd have a drip leak.
THEN I did the "Right Stuff" technique and BANG!!!!
No runs--No drips--No errors (commercial quote)

My bud bought the sled & when he went to remove the oil cover, he struggled.
He spent some time to get it apart.
Now he leaves it "glued" on to the chain case

P.S: Can anyone name the Commercial?............without looking it up
Taco Bell for their improved Bean Cheesy Gordito?
 
Not to hijack but while we're on Oil On The Floor, not sure if it's common knowledge but I discovered when draining the oil from the crankcase you need to raise the front/lower the rear to get all the oil out of the sump as the drainplug hole is not quite the lowest point in the sump whnen sitting level. It eventually almost reached the door-I'd guess half a cup or so. Just an FYI.
302682306_10217390214541245_2998701599552356151_n.jpg
 

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The first couple years with the SideWinder I had dealers do the work.
Every time I'd have a drip leak.
THEN I did the "Right Stuff" technique and BANG!!!!
No runs--No drips--No errors (commercial quote)

My bud bought the sled & when he went to remove the oil cover, he struggled.
He spent some time to get it apart.
Now he leaves it "glued" on to the chain case

P.S: Can anyone name the Commercial?............without looking it up
I believe it was krylon paint.
 
Not to hijack but while we're on Oil On The Floor, not sure if it's common knowledge but I discovered when draining the oil from the crankcase you need to raise the front/lower the rear to get all the oil out of the sump as the drainplug hole is not quite the lowest point in the sump whnen sitting level. It eventually almost reached the door-I'd guess half a cup or so. Just an FYI.View attachment 168709
That is probably true but there is allot more than that left in the hoses running to and from the oil tank. As has been mentioned a number of times previously, if one wants to do a thorough job of draining all the oil out, you'll have to empty the hoses too.
 
That is probably true but there is allot more than that left in the hoses running to and from the oil tank. As has been mentioned a number of times previously, if one wants to do a thorough job of draining all the oil out, you'll have to empty the hoses too.
I already had the hoses disconnected when this occured. If you're going to take the time and effort to drain the hoses it would be a no-brainer to jack up the front end and get the rest. I was surprised there was this much.
 
Was straightening up my garage, and noticed this spot of oil on the floor under my Sidewinder, right under the exhaust.

When I put it away in the spring, I had let it run for 5 minutes (+/-) to let the fuel stabilizer circulate through, is this just excess oil pushing through the exhaust in a cold engine?
1400 miles on my 2021 Winder. No leaks anywhere previously. Changed oil this past April. Oil spot on floor below the panel that you remove underneath for the oil change. I am sure that it is residual oil that I couldn’t clean up before I “buttoned” it all up. Messy process to do an oil and filter change. If I had spots before the change, then I would be skeptical of all of the other things mentioned in the other posts. They are excellent things to point out. People here are awesome
 
I already had the hoses disconnected when this occured. If you're going to take the time and effort to drain the hoses it would be a no-brainer to jack up the front end and get the rest. I was surprised there was this much.
It's a PITA unless you remove the panel.
That's why most of us put RivNuts or equivalent to take whole panel off.
There is an extension hose by I think ULMER & HURRICANE

Either way it's an oily PiTA
If you don't take panel off & don't lift front of sled, you will be making an "Under the HOT Muffler Fire Starter"
 
I "Flush" my sleds cuz I'm the OCD man so I don't worry about what's in the hose.
I drain, put in cheaper oil, run it a bit, drain, change filter & put in the GOOD stuff................................I:e................................OCD
 
I've heard some good stuff about the BOP gasket. So that may be an option for some.
TRAVIS himself saw over 50psi when he purposely clogged the ROV so if NOTHING is done to the ROV there will be problems one way or another.

The newer models have heated ROV.
That seemed to help, but I GOTSTA KNOW it works or I can't enjoy my ride............................................again OCD
 


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