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Oil Tank RTV Silicone-What did you use?

I would personally go to my local ford or international dealer and get a tube of the sealant used on the 7.3l powerstorke. Stuff is amazing. You need a caulk gun to use. My second option would be right stuff. I’ve done 20+ 7.3 oil pans using the ford sealant. Never had one leak.
X2 I will take a pic of tube but if anyone uses it good luck getting if off in future!
 

IMPORTANT, SEE NEXT POST!

I know on the DOO the chaincase is only like 8 ft lbs.....So I was abit leary at 12.

I did tighten them down in a pattern starting with 8, then up to 10....then went to 11. But honestly I did not love the feel of it. But specs I read are 12ft lbs. Im sure 10ft lbs is fine.


Dan
 
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*UPDATED TORQUE SPECS(Oil tank and chaincase bolts)

Ok, now im abit perplexed....

I found another spec sheet, not sure which is correct now....I did like the 8 ft lbs "feel" alot better. I know the DOO specs are around 8 ft lbs.....I would maybe go with the average......10 ft lbs instead, now that Ive got two damn spec sheet that differ. GRRRR

Dan


Spec sheet
Torque values.jpg



Spec sheet
Torque and SPEC 2018.jpg
 
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X2 I will take a pic of tube but if anyone uses it good luck getting if off in future!
Lol yes getting it apart down the road may be a little tough!! But hey it won’t leak!! Stuff is strong enough to hold the 7.3l oil pan to the block with out any bolts installed. I push the pan up, hold for about 10 seconds then walk away to get bolts lol. Guessing the pan weighs at least 30 pounds. Don’t be scared! It will come apart or leak! Not saying there won’t be some choice words involved when taking it apart tho
 
I think about any of these work. Watched trained tech do it yesterday and was very surprised to see a huge bead put on. Like 1/4 inch all the way around. Pre tapping if new and then letting it dry well at least overnight are key I guess.
 
I think about any of these work. Watched trained tech do it yesterday and was very surprised to see a huge bead put on. Like 1/4 inch all the way around. Pre tapping if new and then letting it dry well at least overnight are key I guess.
Agree brother....I think its less about type/brand and more about procedure. Does make me wonder why the initial silicone seals all seem to give up(from factory) but most guys seem to say once they have redone theirs, it holds up well. Odd.

I would prefer a thicker silicone, that has much less squeeze out. But I guess most guys do these on the sled, where I did mine on bench. Will see how it goes. I have no reason to fill it with oil for awhile, so Ill wait awhile.
 
Agree brother....I think its less about type/brand and more about procedure. Does make me wonder why the initial silicone seals all seem to give up(from factory) but most guys seem to say once they have redone theirs, it holds up well. Odd.

I would prefer a thicker silicone, that has much less squeeze out. But I guess most guys do these on the sled, where I did mine on bench. Will see how it goes. I have no reason to fill it with oil for awhile, so Ill wait awhile.
I think the waiting part is a big key. Knowing how factories push things to get done is probably the problem. Seen it before. It basically put Cannondale out of business.
 
I think the waiting part is a big key. Knowing how factories push things to get done is probably the problem. Seen it before. It basically put Cannondale out of business.
Agreed with waiting. I always wait at least over night to fill with oil. Gotta give the sealant a chance to seal and dry
 
2 step process
Both machined surfaces must be completely clean with no oily film.
Metal prep cleaner works fantastic.
Makes sure the sealant bonds to the surfaces.

Need to give time for the sealer itself to cure before adding fluids.

Factory’s fall short with that process all the time.
 
Don't over due it with too much either , don't want chunks of silicone floating around in there. Seeing some pictures where clearly people went over board.
 
Don't over due it with too much either , don't want chunks of silicone floating around in there. Seeing some pictures where clearly people went over board.
I would have given same advice before seeing how the Tech did it. They were specifically told to use alot. 1/4in bead. Thats one reason to let it cure well. No floaties.
 


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