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AWESOME BUILD 
Omega's Garage
- Thread starter Omega_5
- Start date
Omega_5
Extreme
Thanks!
Well, the build is pretty much finished. I'm just working out the kinks.
I managed to get the intercooler all plumbed in. My shorter belt also arrived, so I changed the pulley to the one I originally designed for; 3.1".
Sorry, I forgot to take underhood pics (I was in a rush). I'll get a few pics later this week.
I also changed out the weights to a set of Dalton DTYA2's.
The profile isn't a whole bunch different than stock, though more smooth on the mid and a bit more aggressive on the tip.
I had Friday off, and got it all put back together.
A few weeks ago I stripped the decals and changed the Dzus fastners to anodized black. Still needs a good polish, though.
I noticed after the fact that the clear intercooler hoses create a cool look through the body panels.
Over the long weekend, my wife and I took a trip out to my home town to visit my parents. While there, I got in a bit of testing and tuning. My base tune was very rich (9-10), so it was doing a lot of rich popping and spark quenching. By Monday I had it dialed in to the point where it was running fairly well.
I'm still having a boost issue, though. I noticed in the data logs that the boost would bleed off rapidly under hard throttle conditions. Works fine when I ease into the throttle though. I think I've narrowed it down to a slipping belt, as I haven't tightened it since break-in.
For those wondering, I'm running a 3.307" drive pulley, and a 3.1" ring on the SC. I saw a maximum of 4.5psi on a lake run, while easing on the throttle. I was aiming for about 5psi, so hopefully after tightening the belt I'll get that extra bit up top.
On the note of clutch weights; I'm not sure if it's a product of the boost bleeding, or too big of a weight, but my RPM's are way too low now. It's topping out around 7900rpm. Once I get the belt tightened I'll know for sure, but I think I should have went with DTYA1's instead.
Well, the build is pretty much finished. I'm just working out the kinks.
I managed to get the intercooler all plumbed in. My shorter belt also arrived, so I changed the pulley to the one I originally designed for; 3.1".
Sorry, I forgot to take underhood pics (I was in a rush). I'll get a few pics later this week.
I also changed out the weights to a set of Dalton DTYA2's.
The profile isn't a whole bunch different than stock, though more smooth on the mid and a bit more aggressive on the tip.
I had Friday off, and got it all put back together.
A few weeks ago I stripped the decals and changed the Dzus fastners to anodized black. Still needs a good polish, though.
I noticed after the fact that the clear intercooler hoses create a cool look through the body panels.
Over the long weekend, my wife and I took a trip out to my home town to visit my parents. While there, I got in a bit of testing and tuning. My base tune was very rich (9-10), so it was doing a lot of rich popping and spark quenching. By Monday I had it dialed in to the point where it was running fairly well.
I'm still having a boost issue, though. I noticed in the data logs that the boost would bleed off rapidly under hard throttle conditions. Works fine when I ease into the throttle though. I think I've narrowed it down to a slipping belt, as I haven't tightened it since break-in.
For those wondering, I'm running a 3.307" drive pulley, and a 3.1" ring on the SC. I saw a maximum of 4.5psi on a lake run, while easing on the throttle. I was aiming for about 5psi, so hopefully after tightening the belt I'll get that extra bit up top.
On the note of clutch weights; I'm not sure if it's a product of the boost bleeding, or too big of a weight, but my RPM's are way too low now. It's topping out around 7900rpm. Once I get the belt tightened I'll know for sure, but I think I should have went with DTYA1's instead.
Omega_5
Extreme
Now that the Nytro is pretty much complete, I've been taking on some other projects for friends.
First repair job was welding up a chaincase from a Summit. The owner hit something an mashed a panel rivet through the bottom of the case.
Cracked;
Despite being cast, I took my swing at welding it. For those that don't know, cast is a real pain to weld due to the impurities in the metal during the pour. I put to use everything I ever learned about aluminum on this job. I cleaned the area up good with a buff pad, and took the acetone to it for the final clean.. I then hit it with the MAPP gas for about a minute to burn off any residual oils and to push the heat into the base material.
As soon as I lit up on it, I knew I was in for some interesting work. The casting would pop and spark like it was laced with steel particles, and wouldn't puddle nice. I ended up making a light pass over it with light current to do some 'AC cleaning'. Once the material was hot and clean, I made mini puddles around the crack and set in some small 5356 mig wire I had sitting around to get a better base. Once I had something that was actually weldable, I took to it with some 4043 for a real penetrating pass. It welded up way better with the base on it. For reference, 5356 is typically an easier filler to weld with, but isn't as strong as 4043 in extreme temperatures. For this reason, I prefer to use 4043 in all of my snowmobile welding.
Fixed;
On Sunday I brought in a 'froggy style' F8 that needed a tunnel extension (1extended to 144").
I managed to get it all stripped down an ready for modification on Sunday. The strange thing about these sleds, is that while the rear grab bar is attached to the running boards, the real strength comes from the heat exchanger. You actually lift the sled up by the exchanger. Very strange.
Here I have the panels off, and the rear exchanger removed.
Monday, I picked up some 1" pipe and machined the OD down to match the existing grab bar. The extension will be hidden behind the panels, but I still wanted it to match. I then machined some inserts so there is some extra material
around the joint.
All welded up.
A few shots of the welds.
Last night I worked on the exchanger extension.
The coolers and the grab bar are at different angles, so I had to get creative. I ended up rotating the rear cooler, to give more clearance from the track. I then took some 3/4" pipe and put a 30* bend in it, and cut the bend in half. The extension is 6" long, then tweaks up 15* to meet the rear cooler.
I had some issues with final closure weld (my own fault). I welded the top first, then did the bottom, forgetting that I'd be resealing the system. As soon as I tried to close the system, the remaining glycol in the cooling lines would try to vent off. I ended up having to drill a relief hole in one of the top welds, close the bottom, then reseal the top after the material cooled.
For tonight... figure out what I'm going to do to fill the 6" hole in the top of the tunnel now.
First repair job was welding up a chaincase from a Summit. The owner hit something an mashed a panel rivet through the bottom of the case.
Cracked;
Despite being cast, I took my swing at welding it. For those that don't know, cast is a real pain to weld due to the impurities in the metal during the pour. I put to use everything I ever learned about aluminum on this job. I cleaned the area up good with a buff pad, and took the acetone to it for the final clean.. I then hit it with the MAPP gas for about a minute to burn off any residual oils and to push the heat into the base material.
As soon as I lit up on it, I knew I was in for some interesting work. The casting would pop and spark like it was laced with steel particles, and wouldn't puddle nice. I ended up making a light pass over it with light current to do some 'AC cleaning'. Once the material was hot and clean, I made mini puddles around the crack and set in some small 5356 mig wire I had sitting around to get a better base. Once I had something that was actually weldable, I took to it with some 4043 for a real penetrating pass. It welded up way better with the base on it. For reference, 5356 is typically an easier filler to weld with, but isn't as strong as 4043 in extreme temperatures. For this reason, I prefer to use 4043 in all of my snowmobile welding.
Fixed;
On Sunday I brought in a 'froggy style' F8 that needed a tunnel extension (1extended to 144").
I managed to get it all stripped down an ready for modification on Sunday. The strange thing about these sleds, is that while the rear grab bar is attached to the running boards, the real strength comes from the heat exchanger. You actually lift the sled up by the exchanger. Very strange.
Here I have the panels off, and the rear exchanger removed.
Monday, I picked up some 1" pipe and machined the OD down to match the existing grab bar. The extension will be hidden behind the panels, but I still wanted it to match. I then machined some inserts so there is some extra material
around the joint.
All welded up.
A few shots of the welds.
Last night I worked on the exchanger extension.
The coolers and the grab bar are at different angles, so I had to get creative. I ended up rotating the rear cooler, to give more clearance from the track. I then took some 3/4" pipe and put a 30* bend in it, and cut the bend in half. The extension is 6" long, then tweaks up 15* to meet the rear cooler.
I had some issues with final closure weld (my own fault). I welded the top first, then did the bottom, forgetting that I'd be resealing the system. As soon as I tried to close the system, the remaining glycol in the cooling lines would try to vent off. I ended up having to drill a relief hole in one of the top welds, close the bottom, then reseal the top after the material cooled.
For tonight... figure out what I'm going to do to fill the 6" hole in the top of the tunnel now.
- Joined
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Sweet........really like that exchanger mount 
Omega_5
Extreme
Thanks!
After pondering on how to fill the hole, I came up empty. I'm handy with metal, but aluminum just doesn't finish the sled well, considering all the plastic.
The owner came by, and had said he'd tinker with it at home. He mentioned using a piece of mudflap and a backer plate, then rivet it to the stock snowflap. Pretty good thinking there.
Here is how it sits now;
After pondering on how to fill the hole, I came up empty. I'm handy with metal, but aluminum just doesn't finish the sled well, considering all the plastic.
The owner came by, and had said he'd tinker with it at home. He mentioned using a piece of mudflap and a backer plate, then rivet it to the stock snowflap. Pretty good thinking there.
Here is how it sits now;
le700
Expert
wow, amazing metal skills you've got there...
Omega_5
Extreme
Thanks!
I finally remembered to snap a finished picture of the Nytro.
Not really much has changed. I went to a spring tensioner instead of the threaded unit. It seems to hold the belt better over the rev range.
I'm still second guessing the intercooler filler location. It is kind of a pain to fill, although since being filled there hasn't been a reason to open it again.
I finally remembered to snap a finished picture of the Nytro.
Not really much has changed. I went to a spring tensioner instead of the threaded unit. It seems to hold the belt better over the rev range.
I'm still second guessing the intercooler filler location. It is kind of a pain to fill, although since being filled there hasn't been a reason to open it again.
Omega_5
Extreme
Time to revive this thread.
A lot has happened since the supercharger build.
The fabrication bit slowed down, as we moved out to an acreage which demands more time.
As well, I've since sold the Nytro, bought an Apex, had a incident (had to part it out), bought another, rode it for a while and then decided to pursue another project.
I started with tearing down the Apex, and using it as the heart of my build.
I acquired a set of coolers from an IQ Dragon to custom build a tunnel.
And spent way too much time on CAD analyzing geometry and layout. I finally came up with a set of laser cut side panels for the tunnel.
Which brings us to this past weekend. I started building the main frame rails.
Anyone working with aluminum, it's important to remember; it isn't steel. Anyone that's tried to bend 6061-T6 know where this is going. If you try to bend it, it will tear with only a little deflection. Using heat, only makes things worse. The correct method is to remove the temper from the aluminum, by annealing it.
That lead to this picture, that I took to share with the guys at work. The top is a piece of scrap T6 that cracked when bent. The bottom was annealed.
After bending the lot of pieces I needed, I began fitting to I could start tacking.
I'm hoping to get the frame rails built over the weekend, then I can start test assembling some pieces.
A lot has happened since the supercharger build.
The fabrication bit slowed down, as we moved out to an acreage which demands more time.
As well, I've since sold the Nytro, bought an Apex, had a incident (had to part it out), bought another, rode it for a while and then decided to pursue another project.
I started with tearing down the Apex, and using it as the heart of my build.
I acquired a set of coolers from an IQ Dragon to custom build a tunnel.
And spent way too much time on CAD analyzing geometry and layout. I finally came up with a set of laser cut side panels for the tunnel.
Which brings us to this past weekend. I started building the main frame rails.
Anyone working with aluminum, it's important to remember; it isn't steel. Anyone that's tried to bend 6061-T6 know where this is going. If you try to bend it, it will tear with only a little deflection. Using heat, only makes things worse. The correct method is to remove the temper from the aluminum, by annealing it.
That lead to this picture, that I took to share with the guys at work. The top is a piece of scrap T6 that cracked when bent. The bottom was annealed.
After bending the lot of pieces I needed, I began fitting to I could start tacking.
I'm hoping to get the frame rails built over the weekend, then I can start test assembling some pieces.
Omega_5
Extreme
Decent progress last night. Managed to finish off the rails. The biggest challenge was under the chaincase.
Got the drop brackets welded on to the frame rails.
And the front bulkhead mounting plate.
Got the drop brackets welded on to the frame rails.
And the front bulkhead mounting plate.
Last edited:
Snowman871
Lifetime Member
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Subscribed! 
Omega_5
Extreme
Thanks! I was beginning to think that no one was interested.
More progress.
Friday night;
I was finally confident in the top plate, so I went ahead and secured it together.
In case any one was wondering, instead of buying the overpriced dealership rivets for chassis work, just find a fastener dealer and ask for Avdel Hemlok structural rivets. They work like a 'pop' style rivet, but don't rely on bulging an outer tube. Rather, they fold like a riv-nut. Plus the knurled pin makes it easier for pneumatic guns to grip.
With tunnel top complete, I mocked up the sides, and cooler.
Unfortunately I still haven't gotten around to buying a Cleco set, so I'm stuck using 3/16 and 1/4 pan heads. After this project, I might finally come to my senses and buy the one tool I've been lacking for so long.
Knowing that I'd need additional support around the driveline, I had a set of reinforcement brackets laser cut.
Saturday;
I mocked up the suspension, driveshaft, and front bulkhead, and attached the reinforcement brackets, and chaincase.
And spent most of the morning measuring the engine, measuring the chassis, messing with CAD, measuring the engine, measuring the chassis, messing with CAD, etc, etc, etc. Until I finally figured out the mounts for the engine.
I then proceeded to sit in front of the lathe for the afternoon and kick out a few parts.
Jackshaft bearing carrier, and rear mounts
Front mounts
Sunday;
Having the required parts machined, I decided to weld out the reinforcement brackets, and mounts.
I then called on my wife to help mock up the motor and various other parts.
I'm sure this is the set that answers the question; what the hell am I building?
I mocked up the rest of the driveline, and built a clutch cover from 'left-overs'.
And that's where the exhausting fabrication weekend ended.
This next week will probably be a bit slow. I'm still waiting on bars, bar block, and an upper steering post.
As well, it's almost impossible to find DOM out in the oilfield; everything is pipe spec. So I might have to make a run in to the city to buy some material for the front pyramid structure.
More progress.
Friday night;
I was finally confident in the top plate, so I went ahead and secured it together.
In case any one was wondering, instead of buying the overpriced dealership rivets for chassis work, just find a fastener dealer and ask for Avdel Hemlok structural rivets. They work like a 'pop' style rivet, but don't rely on bulging an outer tube. Rather, they fold like a riv-nut. Plus the knurled pin makes it easier for pneumatic guns to grip.
With tunnel top complete, I mocked up the sides, and cooler.
Unfortunately I still haven't gotten around to buying a Cleco set, so I'm stuck using 3/16 and 1/4 pan heads. After this project, I might finally come to my senses and buy the one tool I've been lacking for so long.
Knowing that I'd need additional support around the driveline, I had a set of reinforcement brackets laser cut.
Saturday;
I mocked up the suspension, driveshaft, and front bulkhead, and attached the reinforcement brackets, and chaincase.
And spent most of the morning measuring the engine, measuring the chassis, messing with CAD, measuring the engine, measuring the chassis, messing with CAD, etc, etc, etc. Until I finally figured out the mounts for the engine.
I then proceeded to sit in front of the lathe for the afternoon and kick out a few parts.
Jackshaft bearing carrier, and rear mounts
Front mounts
Sunday;
Having the required parts machined, I decided to weld out the reinforcement brackets, and mounts.
I then called on my wife to help mock up the motor and various other parts.
I'm sure this is the set that answers the question; what the hell am I building?
I mocked up the rest of the driveline, and built a clutch cover from 'left-overs'.
And that's where the exhausting fabrication weekend ended.
This next week will probably be a bit slow. I'm still waiting on bars, bar block, and an upper steering post.
As well, it's almost impossible to find DOM out in the oilfield; everything is pipe spec. So I might have to make a run in to the city to buy some material for the front pyramid structure.
Last edited:
TBay Sledhead
TY 4 Stroke Master
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01 SXR Long Track
What is the front bulkhead from (Nytro). Looks cool and should be light what ever you are building.
Snowman871
Lifetime Member
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Definitely interested, you have some awesome fab skills! It's really cool to see all the talent that's on this forum customizing sleds, can't wait to get my shop interior finished so I can get to work on my own sled. I'll have a bit to pick up on the welding side!
If you don't mind me asking, how are you tuning your custom setups? I'm assuming you have some sort of software to log runs and have a couple different sensors for feedback?
le700
Expert
Wish I had your skills..
