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Once upon a time, I had a belt blower, then Mike Knapp and Clutchmaster did some magic

I will try that but I have looked over the belt and its perfect. After seeing Dans tensioner fall apart I have to rip the case down. 4900 miles.. have to be sure its all solid even the bearings.
Better safe then sorry....I wish I had tack welded mine so bad now!

Dan
 

Mine has always done this. New belt, old belt, didn't matter. Just went through entire chain case at the begining of the year. Tensioner was good but redid screws with red loctite and all bearings were smooth running. Only does it from 70-90 at part throttle on long runs.
Must be a track thing or something, Mine has done this awhile....But it sure is nice to know chaincase is all good.
 
Mine has always done this. New belt, old belt, didn't matter. Just went through entire chain case at the begining of the year. Tensioner was good but redid screws with red loctite and all bearings were smooth running. Only does it from 70-90 at part throttle on long runs.

Did you ever check the top gear and see if the bushing is bad? How many miles on when you tore into it?
 
I have my TD orange secondary spring set at 3/3=60. If I increase it to 70 would that help with the side pressure you are talking about?

Any added twist adds side pressure yes. The old Dalton B/O was supposed to be set at 70 and new ones at 80. I'm having guys crank them up one more to at least put a little more pressure on them. So 80 for the old and 90 for the new springs. Daltons new spring needs that extra 10* of twist vs the old one.
 
Must be a track thing or something, Mine has done this awhile....But it sure is nice to know chaincase is all good.
Mine would do the same, I tightened track a little more went away, the anti ratchet drivers is making it, as track balloons the teeth are hitting the front edges of the holes in track, tighten they fill the hole without hitting the front edge. Hard to explain but give it a try. Makes the vibration on hard pulls.
 
I have my TD orange secondary spring set at 3/3=60. If I increase it to 70 would that help with the side pressure you are talking about?

I have mine set on 60 less than that and it will slipp. Gona try ac green in the weekend and see if it works better
 
Did you ever check the top gear and see if the bushing is bad? How many miles on when you tore into it?
3200 miles when I did it back in November. Replaced the top gear with new one with 3 holes. Old one looked fine but I was in there and it's cheep. Still does it. When it happens, if I get on it hard or let off, it goes away. That's why I am thinking more and more that it's the secondary slipping at those speeds at part throttle.
 
3200 miles when I did it back in November. Replaced the top gear with new one with 3 holes. Old one looked fine but I was in there and it's cheep. Still does it. When it happens, if I get on it hard or let off, it goes away. That's why I am thinking more and more that it's the secondary slipping at those speeds at part throttle.

Have you tried just giving it more side load?
 
Any added twist adds side pressure yes. The old Dalton B/O was supposed to be set at 70 and new ones at 80. I'm having guys crank them up one more to at least put a little more pressure on them. So 80 for the old and 90 for the new springs. Daltons new spring needs that extra 10* of twist vs the old one.

I have mine set to 6/2 I am not sure what that is for degrees. Can you share with me what to set this at for the additional degrees like 70 and 80
 
I have mine set to 6/2 I am not sure what that is for degrees. Can you share with me what to set this at for the additional degrees like 70 and 80

Add the two numbers and you get total degrees of tension. For example, 6/2 = 80 degrees.
 
Damn it I knew it would be something easy like that LOL. How do you tell if you have the new spring vs the old Dalton?

The "Old" DPSS-YBO is a black Yamaha secondary spring with tang hooks on each end and has orange dots in a line with the length of the spring. The rebuild version will be identified/marked in a slightly different manner but we will publish the difference at the time to show the new.
=========================================
This spring is a newest version of DPSS-YBO ( Black with orange mark)

It is identified by a single, solid horizontal stripe on one wire coil of the spring as shown. Previous version had a stripe across multiple coils.

Read page 4 it has a picture of the newest spring.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/black-orange-replacement-recall.153072/page-4
 
Have you tried just giving it more side load?
No, I'll try to wind it to 80 degrees next time out and see what happens. I'm still running the old BO. Never had any issues with it so didn't feel a need to fix something that isn't broke.
 
I am going on @700 miles on my Cat green spring running a 270 tune. Wrapped at 0-1. Runs great. Just for shits and giggles I unwrapped the spring and set it at 9-1 ---which is lighter wrap due to positions of spring tangs--- ( Thanks Knapp) Went for a 100 miles ride and the sled did not respond anywhere near as well as the 0-1 wrap. When I got back to the trailer I immediately wrapped the spring back to 0-1. Went back out next day for a 135 miles ride and the responsiveness and drive were back.
I started this year trying to use a steeper helix and the softest springs and I could for efficiency and quick shifting. It worked last year with the stock settings and a 225 tune. I am now convinced that the soft springs just wont work @270 hp---I have tried and failed. I am not a lake racer by any means and almost all my trail riding consists of corner to corner blasts. The shallower helix and stiffer springs are working best for me. And over a 1000 miles on a XS825 belt with no dust.
I might get a Dalton white to replace my Cat green just because I believe it will be a better quality spring and I don't know the age of the green spring.
 


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