eric where did you pick up your batt and how much? sleds looking good
i got the ytz10 (sealed non maintainence version) from full throttle (last one they had). was about 100 bux, it was an interstate battery. ytz 7 is alittle smaller and even lighter. but it is alittle lower cca as well. grapeape has used the ytz10 on his apex for the last 3 years no problems even at -30f. how is yours and heaths sleds comming along? ski
just got my Ytz10s as well...paid $63 
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
mtdream said:just got my Ytz10s as well...paid $63
where from?
It will cost you
ordered locally from a Standard Battery store...
Here are a few models of bikes that have this battery, so you can pic from the list if calling like a NAPA or Checker, PepBoys, Carquest or something...
if you want the 7s, here are the bikes that use it...
Honda 250 CRF250X 2004 - 2006
Honda 450 CRF450X 2005 - 2006
Yamaha 450 WR450F 2003 - 2005
If you want the 10S then here are the bikes...
Honda CB900F (919) (2002-2006)
Honda CBR1000RR (2004-2007)
Yamaha 1000cc YZF-R1 (2004-2007)
ordered locally from a Standard Battery store...
Here are a few models of bikes that have this battery, so you can pic from the list if calling like a NAPA or Checker, PepBoys, Carquest or something...
if you want the 7s, here are the bikes that use it...
Honda 250 CRF250X 2004 - 2006
Honda 450 CRF450X 2005 - 2006
Yamaha 450 WR450F 2003 - 2005
If you want the 10S then here are the bikes...
Honda CB900F (919) (2002-2006)
Honda CBR1000RR (2004-2007)
Yamaha 1000cc YZF-R1 (2004-2007)
here is an online site for the PTz7s (same as YTZ just not yuasa)
http://www.advancedbattery.com/itemdesc ... q~~tp~.htm
and one for the ptz10s...and it is around $66 from here
this one shows price of $70
http://www.batterymart.com/p-ptz10s-AGM ... ttery.html
http://www.advancedbattery.com/itemdesc ... q~~tp~.htm
and one for the ptz10s...and it is around $66 from here
this one shows price of $70
http://www.batterymart.com/p-ptz10s-AGM ... ttery.html
errol
Expert
I have used the YTZ10S for 3 years now and no issue at all!
2 years on the Apex and one year on the Nytro!
Very good battery!
2 years on the Apex and one year on the Nytro!
Very good battery!
todays update, TWO PIECE SKID PLATE to avoid snow/ice build up and front nose cone tearing out. last year i bought the original yamaha skid plate (not the glide plate). i had an idea due to the build up for deep snow riding, to use a two piece skid plate to allow snow to fall naturally out of the suspension, instead of blocking it and or offering a hole or holes in the glide plate or skid plate whichever you choose to use. the front nose cone cover in the two piece design is for decorative purposes mostly but, it also adds a complete layer to the oem nose cone. i had my plate rip the front of the oem nose cone off the sled the last ride of the year. i was cleaning the ice daily and it still ripped.
instead of trying to bend the plastic skid plate under the motor area, i opted to have a plate made of atp (aluminum tread plate), also known as diamond plate. i took the oem under plate, and the add on skid plate, to the local fab shop told them what i was looking for. they made it in short time for me. i lamented about the weight, and size, then started trimming, bending and fabbing to get it to fit properly, snugly, and making sure it was going to work in case of a big hit.
well, i found the thickness will withstand alot more than a plastic plate for sure. i rolled the front edges to help the snow follow the bodylines of the nytro. i cut a drill bit and used a right angled drill, to drill out the front upper hole in the subframe, so i could use a insert nut and compress it to lock in place and then use a bolt to retain the front of the plates to the sled better than the oem plastic push lock clip.
once the zert nut was inplace i mocked it up, then finished drilling the remaining retainer holes. i installed the stock lower cover, than the atp plate, they fit together like a glove. then i was free to cut up the plastic skid plate. i marked and cut the nose cone portion of the skid plate off, and installed that to the oem nose cone. i turely think it is more functional, offers more protection and looks great.
also, check out the powdercoating on the bumpers, and footrests, they were done by brian (welterracer) at half baked coatings (site sponsor). awesome service, fast turn around, outstanding finish. and the color matches the yamaha blue and my seat perfect. (thanks brian!!!).
instead of trying to bend the plastic skid plate under the motor area, i opted to have a plate made of atp (aluminum tread plate), also known as diamond plate. i took the oem under plate, and the add on skid plate, to the local fab shop told them what i was looking for. they made it in short time for me. i lamented about the weight, and size, then started trimming, bending and fabbing to get it to fit properly, snugly, and making sure it was going to work in case of a big hit.
well, i found the thickness will withstand alot more than a plastic plate for sure. i rolled the front edges to help the snow follow the bodylines of the nytro. i cut a drill bit and used a right angled drill, to drill out the front upper hole in the subframe, so i could use a insert nut and compress it to lock in place and then use a bolt to retain the front of the plates to the sled better than the oem plastic push lock clip.
once the zert nut was inplace i mocked it up, then finished drilling the remaining retainer holes. i installed the stock lower cover, than the atp plate, they fit together like a glove. then i was free to cut up the plastic skid plate. i marked and cut the nose cone portion of the skid plate off, and installed that to the oem nose cone. i turely think it is more functional, offers more protection and looks great.
also, check out the powdercoating on the bumpers, and footrests, they were done by brian (welterracer) at half baked coatings (site sponsor). awesome service, fast turn around, outstanding finish. and the color matches the yamaha blue and my seat perfect. (thanks brian!!!).
i am debating on what to do with the four barr led yamaha tail lamp unit. i placed it on the tunnel cap, it is very visable and the bumper is not in the way or obstructing it's view in anyway, and it looks good there. or my other thought was, adding another powermadd box to the rear behind the gas can, and installing the lamp on it there. any opinions???? (LOL)
my timbersled barkbuster is on order and should be here sometime the first week or so of november. so anotehr 9 pounds or so will come off the front end. the sled is pretty much done now and ready to ride. i may get with jordan from arcticfx for a graphics kit, i have a custom mountainscape theme i am working on, for the final phase of the project. hopefully he can bring my idea to life for me. he did an awsome job on my wifes yellow anniversary kit so, i am sure he can handle this too.
whatcha think so far???? ski
my timbersled barkbuster is on order and should be here sometime the first week or so of november. so anotehr 9 pounds or so will come off the front end. the sled is pretty much done now and ready to ride. i may get with jordan from arcticfx for a graphics kit, i have a custom mountainscape theme i am working on, for the final phase of the project. hopefully he can bring my idea to life for me. he did an awsome job on my wifes yellow anniversary kit so, i am sure he can handle this too.
whatcha think so far???? ski
sledskiing
Expert
Good idea with the skid plate.
the yamaha light is a little overkill "Yammi" for me but i think it would look best on the back of the powermadd
the yamaha light is a little overkill "Yammi" for me but i think it would look best on the back of the powermadd
put it where you have it, so I don't knock it off when I swing my leg around.
well, my timbersled barkbuster front end came in on thursday. i opted to put it in today, to verify if my sub frame was tweaked or not. to my suprize, it wasnt. the shocks are centered in the arms on the barkbuster.
everything went together well, no issues except needing to move the inner tie rod jamb nuts, so i could get enough adjustment to eyeball the skis straight.
just need to do a "real" alignment on the front end and she's done! thank gawd! been a long time comming for this project.
looking forward to seeing snow, and get out west and to our ontario rides. thanks for all that helped, and all that gave comments, and supported me on my project & thread here. i didnt quite get 100 pounds off the sled but, 80-85 is more than close enough for me at this time. very happy with the outcome. should be a blast to ride. ski
everything went together well, no issues except needing to move the inner tie rod jamb nuts, so i could get enough adjustment to eyeball the skis straight.
just need to do a "real" alignment on the front end and she's done! thank gawd! been a long time comming for this project.
looking forward to seeing snow, and get out west and to our ontario rides. thanks for all that helped, and all that gave comments, and supported me on my project & thread here. i didnt quite get 100 pounds off the sled but, 80-85 is more than close enough for me at this time. very happy with the outcome. should be a blast to ride. ski
you can still get to the 100 lbs...look into the airbox and a mod that Ulmer is doing...K&N filters will save some weight there...and Mountain performance has a delete on the emergency brake...
you can get there!!!
you can get there!!!
LOL! at the dreamer. thanks bro i needed that. ski
bdm
Expert
I found that, on my RX, the first 50 lbs were easy, 60 to 80 real expensive, 80+ very very difficult. Some guys do it by creatively rounding their estimates up and not adding back on the weight of mods that add. I carefully weighed every ounce (both additions and subtractions), spent a ton, and barely broke 80 lbs.
