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Paragon Clutch ready for next winter

yamyfreak

Pro
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
183
Location
Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
Just put on my new Paragon clutch and will tell you all about it when I try it when the snow flies again.
 

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What belt is it that you are using?
 
I'm using the CarlisleXS805 which was recomended bu Hi Tec. This is a different set up. I have to test it to let you know what it's like. I'll post the results when I test it. I love the concept. Totally different from what the norm.
 
it was something like that...89 somethings and I thought it to be silly too..

but what's his name..the guy from hi tech swears he runs some really light weights with such a soft spring you could push the clutch together with your bare hands and it rocks...for that matter he said this motor doesnt even NEED a drive spring...only for engagement and he's ran on WITHOUT A DRIVE SPRING BEFORE....
he said...AS I HAVE BELIEVED that the weights being thrown at the 4 holer is way too heavy..

my personal (admit untested) opinion...is the torque of this motor at max is like a well tuned srx plus or minus a few...so the total grams of weight should be less....with less of a drive spring..
more efficiency from less total forces fighting
 
Listen to Duane, He knows his SH!!!!!T. He is very smart when it comes to clutching, my dad and I have been using his stuff for 7 years.
 
What I knew about clutching before talking to Duayne from Hi Tec is completely different from what I've been tought. Most of the other aftermarket clutch kits use more spring tension which robs engine horsepower. He makes a lot of sense and I can't wait to try his clutching system. You can't judge clutching on a jack stand. That's all I have right now. You get a lot of support from Hi Tec. I installed the Hi tec system on my Viper and after working out the Gremlins it worked great. This was in 2002 which seems like ages ago when you see how this sport has evolved. That Viper is still one of the fastest sleds in our group. Top end is unreal when the only thing modified on that sled was the clutch kit, a bender single pipe and canister, and a 1.25 ripsaw track. Sorry for the long winded response on this one.
 
i AM USING THE SAME SET UP ON MY L.P. TURBO SLED. WE HAVE BEEN USING HI-TECH COMPONENTS FOR YEARS. I SEE YOU ARE USING THE 911 CLUTCH COVER ALSO. WE WILL NOT RUN A YAMI PRIMARY CLUTCH WITHOUT ONE.
I AM STILL RE-THINKING CLUTCH SET UP USING THE "WHIMPY" SPRING. ISN`T IT STRANGE TO BE ABLE TO COMPRESS THE PRIMARY CLUTCH WITH ONE HAND? AS YOU KNOW HE RECOMMENDS USING HEAVY HITTERS WITH THIS SET UP. I HAVE BEEN TRYING 2 STAGE HEEL CLICKERS WITH A TOTAL OF 65 GRAMS AT 20PSI BOOST. HAD TO GRIND OFF TIP OF WEIGHT TO MAKE IT WORK. THE THING SHIFTS LIKE CRAZY. I AM REAL CLOSE BUT NOT QUITE THERE YET WITH THE HEEL CLICKERS, BUT I THINK THE FINAL RESULTS WILL BE GREAT. WILL TRY THE HEAVY HITTERS ALSO BUT JUST RAN OUT OF WINTER.
DONT KNOW IF YOU ARE A MOUNTAIN RIDER OR FLAT LANDER, BUT CAN HOOK YOU UP WITH PEOPLE THAT HAVE USED THE PARAGON FOR OVER 4,000 MILES ON OUR TURBO SELD AND HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH NON TURBO APPLICATION AS WELL. YOU OWN THE FINEST (AND MOST EXPENSIVE) CLUTCH ON THE MARKET - GOOD LUCK AND FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME FRED
 
I know this is an old thread, but I found it an interesting read.

I made a computer model of a complete Polaris clutch system several years ago to help me tweak and tune for best trail performance.

What I found was you could, in theory, run with virtually no springs at all with the right ramps and weights. The problem is this makes the transmission incredibly torque sensitive. In other words, light throttle could make the engine cruise along at say 2000 rpm and when you punch it (if there is enough torque reserve), the transmission will seriously back shift and let the engine rpms climb quickly.

This doesn't sound like a problem in itself, but it means the transmission is hyper sensitive to changes in engine performance and traction. If the temperature changes, humidity changes, fuel energy changes, traction changes, etc. the clutching will easily go way off. It also means you're likely riding with little torque reserve for all throttle positions (torque reserve is how much extra torque is available when you punch the throttle - at the same rpm you happen to be running at at that instant) and this leads to reduced throttle response (especially if the engine misfires or something).

On the other hand, if you run with extremely strong springs and heavy weights to compensate for the strong springs, the clutching becomes far less sensitive to engine torque and traction and more sensitive to engine rpm. Basically your rpms will remain more consistent from day to day, etc.

The other issue is with a very light primary spring, you need very a non-linear primary weight setup to get a reasonable engagement and this is very sensitive to belt width (wear).

After going down this road myself and getting excellent performance I eventually decided light springs were just to finicky for real life trail riding. Eventually I went the other way and ended up with stiffer springs and heavier weights (same engine hp), and ended up with a setup that kept the cruise rpms that much higher and kept WOT rpms very consistent regardless of engine torque and conditions.
 
Finally had a chance to try the new Paragon clutch set up. It's very smooth. Absolutely surprised me with how well it shifted. RPM would hit 10,600 and the hole shot hasn't changed at all. Snow is too loose to try any top end speeds. I put stock set up on to see the difference and there is deffinetly a difference. Sled isn't as jerky when crusing at low speeds. But when you hit the throttle the power is right there. When a get a chance i will line up with other Apex's to compare an apple to an apple.
 
Well yamyfreak...any results?
 


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