JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
Another problem for me
I was removing my primary clutch, I screw in the puller (which I've used before) and keep screwing and screwing and it felt like it shouldn't keep going but it did and the puller screwed all the way in........ Clutch didn't pop off. So I tried to take the puller out and it comes about 99% of the way out easily then it it just spinsaand nothing happens.
So, it was stuck like that, I decided to painstakingly remove the stub shaft with the clutch still attached.
Thoughts on what the heck is going on and how I can get this off and/or what I can cut to have minimal parts to buy new?
I'm 90% ready to just buy a whole new stub shaft assembly and a PB80 Clutch especially after talking to the CV-Tech guys at the Snowmobile Show.
I was removing my primary clutch, I screw in the puller (which I've used before) and keep screwing and screwing and it felt like it shouldn't keep going but it did and the puller screwed all the way in........ Clutch didn't pop off. So I tried to take the puller out and it comes about 99% of the way out easily then it it just spinsaand nothing happens.
So, it was stuck like that, I decided to painstakingly remove the stub shaft with the clutch still attached.
Thoughts on what the heck is going on and how I can get this off and/or what I can cut to have minimal parts to buy new?
I'm 90% ready to just buy a whole new stub shaft assembly and a PB80 Clutch especially after talking to the CV-Tech guys at the Snowmobile Show.
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
That is an odd one. Lucky you could remove the stub shaft.
I would think it has to be a puller issue. First off I would take it to a machine shop and see what they can do about it.
Worst case scenario is you buy a new stub shaft...maybe Hurricanes quiet shaft...and replace the primary. You could also look at using a used Nytro or Apex primary to save some money.
I would think it has to be a puller issue. First off I would take it to a machine shop and see what they can do about it.
Worst case scenario is you buy a new stub shaft...maybe Hurricanes quiet shaft...and replace the primary. You could also look at using a used Nytro or Apex primary to save some money.
JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
I dropped by the dealer for my drive shaft situation and brought them my clutch with the Stub Shaft attached to see if there's anything they could do. The new Stub shaft with all the parts is $600 CDN......FML
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
I bet a machine shop can get the puller out and or clutch off without damaging the stub shaft...the puller must be bent or mushroomed at its end so it wont pull back out of the clutch.
When my Sidewinder was brand new with zero miles, I removed my clutch to do preventative maintenance before riding[I don't trust the assembly process]. I had one heck of a time removing my primary, luckily I have a very high quality Dalton puller or I would have ended up in the same situation as you.
When my Sidewinder was brand new with zero miles, I removed my clutch to do preventative maintenance before riding[I don't trust the assembly process]. I had one heck of a time removing my primary, luckily I have a very high quality Dalton puller or I would have ended up in the same situation as you.
JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
I bet a machine shop can get the puller out and or clutch off without damaging the stub shaft...the puller must be bent or mushroomed at its end so it wont pull back out of the clutch.
When my Sidewinder was brand new with zero miles, I removed my clutch to do preventative maintenance before riding[I don't trust the assembly process]. I had one heck of a time removing my primary, luckily I have a very high quality Dalton puller or I would have ended up in the same situation as you.
That makes total sense with it bring mushroomed, going to be tough to get that thing out!! I've had the primary off a few times and I always follow the torque direction of 108 ft lbs then back off then 43 using a new good quality electronic torque wrench...so I dunno, likely a crappy puller :'(
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
I have had many issues with pullers over the years until I started buying Micro Bellmont and Dalton pullers.
ClutchMaster
HUGE Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2016
- Messages
- 2,996
- Location
- tomahawk
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 Viper 270 hurricane,
2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
- LOCATION
- Wisconsin
I tip the sled on its side and use gear lube but either way same results.
74Nitro
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
- Messages
- 5,227
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Dublin Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
You must not be too far from Iantomassi in Bowmanville, I wonder if they could offer some advice or figure out a solution for you?If I feel the puller is about to bend.....
I tip the sled on its side and use gear lube but either way same results.
Motorhead
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2003
- Messages
- 2,090
- Location
- Augusta, Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 SW LTX-LE
- LOCATION
- Augusta ME
Sounds like a cheap quality clutch puller. Same thing happened to me on my brand new 97 Sx 700 years ago.
That was a puller that I had borrowed from my friend and dealer back then. I had noticed that it had a slight bend on the tool prior to using it, and was told that it had done many and would do many more!!! WRONG!!
Ended up cutting the clutch off 3/4” from the end of crank shaft and then welded my own DIY clutch puller ( Big F Nut) on to finish taking that clutch off, while keeping crank somewhat cool and protected. Once that tool end shaft bent inside the crank shaft end, I was screwed without a torch and that would have damaged much more, so yep new clutch back then. Chrome Moly material that we had cut through was very tough alloy As I remember!
Bought a Yamaha clutch tool after that and it has served me and many others well for lots of years. Really beefy tool compared to that black skinny piece of #*$&@ that I had borrowed ? Yamaha yellow zinc tool is a beast!!!
Hope you have better luck then what I had, but at least at this point it will only damage stub shaft if the tool did bend like mine did!!
That was a puller that I had borrowed from my friend and dealer back then. I had noticed that it had a slight bend on the tool prior to using it, and was told that it had done many and would do many more!!! WRONG!!
Ended up cutting the clutch off 3/4” from the end of crank shaft and then welded my own DIY clutch puller ( Big F Nut) on to finish taking that clutch off, while keeping crank somewhat cool and protected. Once that tool end shaft bent inside the crank shaft end, I was screwed without a torch and that would have damaged much more, so yep new clutch back then. Chrome Moly material that we had cut through was very tough alloy As I remember!
Bought a Yamaha clutch tool after that and it has served me and many others well for lots of years. Really beefy tool compared to that black skinny piece of #*$&@ that I had borrowed ? Yamaha yellow zinc tool is a beast!!!
Hope you have better luck then what I had, but at least at this point it will only damage stub shaft if the tool did bend like mine did!!
JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
Sounds like a cheap quality clutch puller. Same thing happened to me on my brand new 97 Sx 700 years ago.
That was a puller that I had borrowed from my friend and dealer back then. I had noticed that it had a slight bend on the tool prior to using it, and was told that it had done many and would do many more!!! WRONG!!
Ended up cutting the clutch off 3/4” from the end of crank shaft and then welded my own DIY clutch puller ( Big F Nut) on to finish taking that clutch off, while keeping crank somewhat cool and protected. Once that tool end shaft bent inside the crank shaft end, I was screwed without a torch and that would have damaged much more, so yep new clutch back then. Chrome Moly material that we had cut through was very tough alloy As I remember!
Bought a Yamaha clutch tool after that and it has served me and many others well for lots of years. Really beefy tool compared to that black skinny piece of #*$&@ that I had borrowed ? Yamaha yellow zinc tool is a beast!!!
Hope you have better luck then what I had, but at least at this point it will only damage stub shaft if the tool did bend like mine did!!
Yeah I figure worst case I need to replace the inner sheave if I have to cut it in half, or I get a PB80. Would love to save the stub shaft but that might be hard. Dealer price for a new one is almost the same as Hurricane's so I would just get that. What a royal PITA, lesson learned though, only brand name piler from now on, I got this one at a local parts supplier and it was black metal. Sucks!
Back the puller out as far as it can go. Cut the head off it. Then weld a steel rod of close to same dia. as puller. Find a heavy piece of steel with a hole in it same dia. or just slightly bigger than puller and rod. Hold the rod in your hand and clutch above something soft. Slam that piece of steel against nose of clutch like a slide hammer. If it is getting nicked put a piece of brass between nose and weight.
JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
When I hear back from the shop I will try that! I tried with a 14mm wrench prying between the puller and the nose but got nothingBack the puller out as far as it can go. Cut the head off it. Then weld a steel rod of close to same dia. as puller. Find a heavy piece of steel with a hole in it same dia. or just slightly bigger than puller and rod. Hold the rod in your hand and clutch above something soft. Slam that piece of steel against nose of clutch like a slide hammer. If it is getting nicked put a piece of brass between nose and weight.
A slide hammer like you would be making has alot of power and it concentrated. May want to also weld a handle to end of rod. Make rod about 3 feet long at least. If it does not go and nothing has been ruined add more weight! Once done you still have to get clutch off but only thing ruined will be puller stuck in there now.When I hear back from the shop I will try that! I tried with a 14mm wrench prying between the puller and the nose but got nothing
ClutchMaster
HUGE Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2016
- Messages
- 2,996
- Location
- tomahawk
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 Viper 270 hurricane,
2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
- LOCATION
- Wisconsin
Back the puller out as far as it can go. Cut the head off it. Then weld a steel rod of close to same dia. as puller. Find a heavy piece of steel with a hole in it same dia. or just slightly bigger than puller and rod. Hold the rod in your hand and clutch above something soft. Slam that piece of steel against nose of clutch like a slide hammer. If it is getting nicked put a piece of brass between nose and weight.
Do all of this while heating the clutch between the sheaves with a map gas torch, should come off but you’ll need 6 hands! Fu£k the bushings those can be replaced
Lets hope he doesnt need the Fire Wrench!Do all of this while heating the clutch between the sheaves with a map gas torch, should come off but you’ll need 6 hands! Fu£k the bushings those can be replaced
Similar threads
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 2K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.