PTO stub shaft bearing

[Turboflash]

This past week I pulled my PTO housing off to loctite the bearing in the housing. First off, there was .032" space between the housing and the bearing on the outside. I don't know if it was assembled this way or it moved (yes, I blown belts). To get the housing off the bearing, I heated the housing exterior with an inductive coil. Once it got hot (maybe about 200-250) it let go and slid right out. I don't like the idea of ever pushing or pressing through the bearing putting force on balls so that's why I decided to see if heating the outer housing would release the bearing. I pulled a seal off the bearing to have a look inside. I wasn't impressed. There was grease of course but it appeared pretty much like wax not more fluid like I was expecting. The bearing was clean, smooth and quiet. I decided to add some bearing grease I got from SKF specifically for high speed, high temp, high RPM bearings like this one. It made the bearing smoother. Installed seal. Put the stub and bearing into freezer for about an hour. Heated up the outer housing again (maybe 200 or so), applied generous dose of green bearing retainer to housing, then the bearing OD, and it dropped right into the housing easily with no force required. When I checked it, I couldn't even get a .003" feeler gage between bearing and the housing.

Question: Has anyone had experience with this bearing failing or going "dry" or getting noisy? My bearing only has about 5100 miles on it and seemed too dry.

 

[Crossfire12]

Don’t make it watery with lighter grease,it will wash out from heat.

 

[Sevey]

Changed that bearing on a 1049 at 15,000 km and it was pretty dry. The grease used is closer to a wax that gets more fluid when it heats up. I changed it out.

Did you use the same seal again? If so, how did you get the seal out without bending it?

Ms

 

[Turboflash]

Don’t make it watery with lighter grease,it will wash out from heat.

As I said, I used a grease SKF recommended based on both low and high temp, high RPM, and high load. It has a temp range of -49 degF to +300. It is used in high speed large HP industrial electric motors that run up to 10,000 RPM. I bet it will work. I plan on keeping an eye and ear on it. It just looked pretty dry when I pulled the seal off.

 

[Turboflash]

Changed that bearing on a 1049 at 15,000 km and it was pretty dry. The grease used is closer to a wax that gets more fluid when it heats up. I changed it out.

Did you use the same seal again? If so, how did you get the seal out without bending it?

Ms

Based on the fact that the seal was not leaking, the outside of the bearing was dry, and the engine only has 5100 miles on it, I re-used the seal as it appeared in like-new condition with good contact around the shaft. I was able to use the primary clutch bolt screwed into the stub and create a slide hammer to get the stub assy out. When doing so, the seal gets forced up onto the larger diameter of the shaft which has a shoulder that pulls the seal out as the whole assy comes out. It worked slick. When I put the assy back in, I lubricated the edge of the seal so it would easily go back into the opening in the case where it belongs. Again, that worked well. Once I oriented the splines correctly, the whole assy slid right in to where the seal edge was contacting the opening in the case where it belongs. (I had put the whole assy in a freezer prior to installing to make it easier to get it in). As the 4 bolts are tightened to, that presses the seal back into place. Worked slick.

 

[Sevey]

Strange - that seal has a metal plate imbedded in the rubber. When I have removed it in the past I kinked the seal - to the point it was flawed and could not be re used.

Considering how many engines there are out there, you really don't hear too many stories of failures......

MS

 

[74Nitro]

Strange - that seal has a metal plate imbedded in the rubber. When I have removed it in the past I kinked the seal - to the point it was flawed and could not be re used.

Considering how many engines there are out there, you really don't hear too many stories of failures......

MS

Most seals have metal imbedded in the rubber.

 

[Turboflash]

Mine came out nice and straight/flat. No deformity at all.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Mine came out nice and straight/flat. No deformity at all.

Nice... I can never seem to do that lol.

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

A friend of mine had his fail, seemed like strands of belt got in there and forced the bearing to move in deeper, and adding side pressure to the bearing. Bearing was shot. He was constantly blowing primary clutch rollers.

 

[ClutchMaster]

As I said, I used a grease SKF recommended based on both low and high temp, high RPM, and high load. It has a temp range of -49 degF to +300. It is used in high speed large HP industrial electric motors that run up to 10,000 RPM. I bet it will work. I plan on keeping an eye and ear on it. It just looked pretty dry when I pulled the seal off.

the grease is probably more expensive than the bearing it’s used on!

I’m guessing you will have no issues. I have a few original Boggie wheel bearings that have over 16k miles on them, just service them with good grease every two years and they last forever.

 

[yamaha06]

When would the recommended interval be to change this bearing? I changed every bearing on the sled except this one last year with 9,300km on the sled to SKF just for a piece of mind as I often have to travel 5 hours to snow so didn’t want any rides cut short. I also changed my main chain, and gears in the chaincase as it was pretty stretched.

Debating whether I should change this bearing, have 12,200km in the sled now.

 

[yamamarc]

I pushex in my bearing when removing primary!!!!
I had a hell or a time removing it and when she popped it hit hard!!!
My dalton puller took a beating ...lol

 

[Sevey]

When would the recommended interval be to change this bearing? I changed every bearing on the sled except this one last year with 9,300km on the sled to SKF just for a piece of mind as I often have to travel 5 hours to snow so didn’t want any rides cut short. I also changed my main chain, and gears in the chaincase as it was pretty stretched.

Debating whether I should change this bearing, have 12,200km in the sled now.

I think the bearing will be fine. I would not get concerned until it gets well past 16-18,000 km. There are tons of 1049's out there that run for an insanely long time - like past 20k with never changing that bearing.

MS

 

[Sevey]

I pushex in my bearing when removing primary!!!!
I had a hell or a time removing it and when she popped it hit hard!!!
My dalton puller took a beating ...lol

View attachment 156124

Lucky the puller didnt get stuck. Had the same issue with mine last year. It wasnt fun. Sounded like a gun shot when it came off .
MS