Off Trail Mike
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Mateo,
I am using the BDX 4 wheel anti-stab kit on my AC Skid, and adapted the same BDX kit for the Timbersled skid I have, by simply narrowing the antistab shaft 2mm, drilling out a 5/8" hole in the the Timbersled plastic railtips and a 3/8" hole in the rails.
In both the AC and Timber cases, they are 153 skids being fitted to an '11 Nytro.
I agree with MTDream....it probably doesn't matter. The "stab" situation results from an inverted "U" or track wave between your drivers and the front of the rail. IMO, the wheel contact with the track and the fact that the wheels are also on either side of the track windows is what prevents a stab. The plastic tips (depending on rail design) might catch, but not enough for a track wrecking stab. Their advantage, as in the case of the AC skid, is the tips help cut down on track vibration.
Here's my setups:
I am using the BDX 4 wheel anti-stab kit on my AC Skid, and adapted the same BDX kit for the Timbersled skid I have, by simply narrowing the antistab shaft 2mm, drilling out a 5/8" hole in the the Timbersled plastic railtips and a 3/8" hole in the rails.
In both the AC and Timber cases, they are 153 skids being fitted to an '11 Nytro.
I agree with MTDream....it probably doesn't matter. The "stab" situation results from an inverted "U" or track wave between your drivers and the front of the rail. IMO, the wheel contact with the track and the fact that the wheels are also on either side of the track windows is what prevents a stab. The plastic tips (depending on rail design) might catch, but not enough for a track wrecking stab. Their advantage, as in the case of the AC skid, is the tips help cut down on track vibration.
Here's my setups:



Mtnviper
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moab11 said:What anti stab kits are you guys buying and from where?
I'm kind of nervous about this now that I have to cut down my rails for the extrovert drivers.
While anti-stab wheels are good idea and highly recommended for certain applications. Some sleds are more susceptible to stabbing then others.
Rail design, some rails lay flat on the track clips almost all the way to the cap while others have more "curl" at the front. The XTX rail has a fair amount of front curl to it. Rails that lay flatter up towards the tip are more susceptible to stabbing then a curled tip rail. However the flatter rail will usually offer better deep snow performance, due to it's ability to maintain a better approch angle.
Skid set-back, the further the rails are away from the drivers the greater the chances of stabbing the track. IMO when you move a skid back to run a longer track, anti-stab wheels are a very good idea. In the case of the XTX the rails are very close to the drivers, which helps reduce the chances of a track stab.
Track pitch, A 3" pitch track is more likely to stab then a 2.52" pitch track. This is because the windows are approx 1/2" longer which offers more room for the rail to poke through. Of course it is still possible to stab a 2.52 track under the right conditions.
Loose track tension, A loose track tension will allow the track to "curl up" along the driver more while under power. Then as the track exits from the driver, it approches the rail tip at a steeper angle which can increase the chance of stabbing the track.
Lots of horsepower, a similiar effect to running a loose track tension.
Limiter strap adjustment, longer limiter strap adjustments along with backed off tranfer rods can allow the front of the rail tip to ride lower into the track windows more. This is more noticeable during jumping and landing on the tail end of the skid, while at the same time pinning the throttle to take off again.
tapex_07
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Very nice explanation MTNViper.


moab11
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Wow, thanks for the explanation MTNViper!!!
So take it from all of that, that I should be fine on my XTX?
So take it from all of that, that I should be fine on my XTX?
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