rz918
Extreme
Has anyone changed the stock rear arm coupling blocks to eith the Arctic Cat or Polaris adjustable ones. If so did you use the stock Yamaha bolt and nut assembly or did you need the bolt and nut assembly from the other manufacturer?
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ulmer racing has couppling blocks. They are mashined o one surface to match the stock setting and then less and less on the others...
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
The Poo adjuster is 2 pieces (outer square plastic piece fits over a machined alum. part with flats to hold cam in 90 degree increments), with a 3/8" socket head bolt that holds it in place.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I went with the AC 2007 adjustable blocks. I think the total cost was $20. I used the Yami nut and bolt.
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
i installed ulmers.......not easy to adjust trail side as they get covered in snow and you need an allen wrench.....although they are well made and do the job.
however, after skid revalve, I found the sled does not wheelie near as much.....have backed of the both the coupling block and limiter strap. now one hole and 1/8" thicker.....works nice for me. (230lbs)
however, after skid revalve, I found the sled does not wheelie near as much.....have backed of the both the coupling block and limiter strap. now one hole and 1/8" thicker.....works nice for me. (230lbs)
Deadman
Expert
Are you swapping these to get more or less weight transfer?
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
turning them... look at ulmers page...
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Deadman said:
More. But it's not just transfer, it's also usable suspension travel that's not runnig in coupled mode.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
How do you mean? The coupling blocks are only behind the scissors and should not affect the travel.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Kråkan said:
It's easy to check out. Just release one of the springs for a minute. Kneel down on the back end and let it go down until you feel it hit the blocks. Then remove the blocks and see how much further down the suspension will go.
Finally, with the blocks in place, springs set the way you normally run them, kneel down on the back to bring it down onto the blocks again. Then try to get the suspension to move any further....
You'll find the suspension travel beyond the point it hits the blocks is VERY stiff, and used only on the very biggest hits. Unless you are a really aggressive rider, that suspension travel is not used often. Moving the blocks to the rear, or increasing the distance from the link to the blocks can net many guys more suspension travel that can be used more often. Assuming your ride height/sag is set up near the top (3"?), with that extra travel available, many times you can even get away running less compression damping because the shock has more time/travel available to dissipate that hit....
The extra weight tranfer you'll have with the extra distance available is another matter that must be dealt with, and balanced with the benefit of this extra travel that may be available. Just thought I'd bring it up to consider. Just me.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Well not a problem for me though.. I bottom mine out all the time...
I had some in my sled early in the season but I took them out because I felt they limited transfer way too much. I just used Polaris blocks and bolts out of an X-tra 10 rear skid. They fit perfectly but were a bit of a pain to adjust because you needed an allen wrench.
I'm not running them right now but they may be beneficial to someone who is trying to keep their standard Nytro from bottoming out.
I'm not running them right now but they may be beneficial to someone who is trying to keep their standard Nytro from bottoming out.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
AKrider said:
Limited transfer? With Poo adjusters on low, seems like you would have increased it? No?
The Xtra adjusters are the same as those in use today. Do not require that the bolt be loosened. Yours must have been corroded or something. The black outer piece should rotate in 90 degree increments on the alum. hub. Stiff to operate when new, or if they haven't been used much?
I never tried to rotate them while when tight. I didn't realize they were meant to work that way. Seems from what I recall, even on their lowest setting, the gap between the scissor arm and block was less than with stock.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yes they are alittle LESS than stock. Allen mashines one of the surfaces to match the stock setting. Allens blocks look like the Pol adjusters, and probobly are......
