rear elec ohlin shock question

1yamaha1

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can somebody put me in the right driction so i can send my shock , and have the ec removed from my rear ohlin shock, and make it a manuial adjustment, this is the second time i broke the wire, and since i dont adjust it much , i was looking to remove the unit, any iinfo would help thanks
 
Bruce at Pioneer Performance 716-496-8800 should be able to convert your EC mono shock to manual adjustment. However the question that you should be asking is why the wire keeps breaking.

If the wire is routed properly it should not be breaking. There was a technical bulletin to correct the wire routing in 2007. Here is a link to the bulletin. http://www.ty4stroke.com/download.php?id=29280


Please add your location to your profile and put your sled information in your signature. Welcome to TY!
 
Just got my EC Ohlins back from Hygear. I was disappointed with how long it took, but there was no snow anyway and the product seems top notch. I had mine updated to their Dual Rate spring setup. Looks slick as hell and gives you way more, and progressive bottoming control. No review as no snow. This was the third time I had to have an EC Ohlins recharged and apparently I rode it for awhile without the charge. I've never seen a shock disassembled to this level before and I was struck by how lightweight the shock body is. I'm no expert but my suspicion is that the EC Ohlins really just cant stand up to the forces of the weight of the Apex. I think its just as likely that the shock body became damaged and then I lost my charge. Anyway, you might look for an RA Mono shock cheap, have it revalved and install. I almost never adjust the EC on the fly and on the 2nd time rebuilding my EC my dealer installed an RA shock so I could take a trip. No real noticeable difference to me.

When I get tired of recharging or replacing the wire I'll that myself.
 
also my shock is a 2006 , ohlin i have it apart right now and looking at the valving stack , i see that i have to send it out a o-ring is also worn out, thanks for the help
 
Bjowett from this site just did this to mine. No more damn broken wires, lol!!!

ohlinsapexman.jpg


Please note the top compression clicker now and no EC wire on the top of the shock. Mine ohlins also has Ohlins PDS system and a progressive racing European valve stack. She should really rail this winter.

I disagree with the question of the Ohlins durability. The short lifespan of the "charge" as you say is actually your shock oil broken down. Cheap shock oil breaks down sooner and you'll have to rebuild the shock or change the shock oul faaster. For instance, bjowett uses Redline shock oil, arguably the best there is. For this reason I believe his rebuilds are better and will be better, and more durable, for longer.

A big question to ask your shock guy is what oil will he put in your shock. Not all are created equal. Redline is really good. For Ohlins great name and quality, some of their name branded "Ohlins" shock oils are known to be not very long lasting. That is truth. So asking about the shock oil going into your shock is a good question to ask.

For the poster above whose shock "charge" didn't last very long in a prior rebuild, you prob just got some cheap shock oil that broke down quickly on you. Ask for Redline shock oil next time.
 
Will there be an error code if the computer does not see the shock solenoid coil in the circuit?
 
Negative ghost rider, the shock icon will just never appear on the dash, just as if the wire was unplugged or broken.
 
Super Sled,

I just had my Ohlins EC monoshock serviced at Pioneer. Bruce left the previous Carver re-valve as is saying that it was done right.

Once I set my EC I rarely change it. Perhaps next time I will have Bjowett do to mine what he did to yours. What was the cost?

Please let me know how you like it after you have put some miles on if we ever get some frickin snow!
 
how many miles do you guys have on your sleds? i've got 3600 miles on my sled and never had a days problem with the shocks and i adjust them 3-5 times on each time i ride because of the different terrain/conditions we ride here. when i go out i usually ride about 180-250 miles in a day and we go from flat as a pancake to mogols that can be 3ft high and 20 miles of them.
last yr my nephews polaris(what can you expect from a polaris) broke down and i had to tow him for 10 miles to get back to a road because my brothers skidoo didn't have the berries to do it.haha. when we got to the road we left the sled and my nephew jumped on with my brother on his new gsx(i must mention my brothers 225lbs and my nephew 250lbs) the machine was on the ground and we had 40-50miles of rough trails to go. within 5 miles the suspension was shot on his sled and they had to stop.
i told my nephew to jump on my sled(i'm 200lbs) and i cranked up the front and rear shocks to full hard and off we went. we never bottomed the sled out and my brother couldn't keep up on his skidoo. i love my suspension and i haven't found one that compares to it yet. :rules
 
Kuvasz,

Welcome to TY! Please add your location to your profile.

Most guys have their shocks serviced every couple thousand miles so I would say that you are overdue depending on how hard you ride.
 
I havent had mine done in 7000 miles and i ride hard big air power thru studder bumps but i two adjust to the terrain maybe thats why they are holding up?
 
The Ohlins is way more durable than the RA.Stick with the Ohlins and make it right.I just saw a 7500mi Ohlins and the oil was done but there was no wear at all to the bore.RA would have a good .060 wear spot in bore from piston if subjected to that kind of abuse for sure.
 
can you adjust the comp on the shock or is it a lock postion and valve diffrent for the ec missing
 
That bolt thing on the top is a 14mm that adjusts the compression. Turning the nut left adjusts compression down. Turning right elevates the compression adjustment.

The rebound adjustment is still the knob on the bottom.
 


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