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Removing Supercharger Pulley

Lineman735

VIP Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
87
Location
Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2016 Viper XTX LE
2010 Nytro XTX
Picked up a used engine from a wrecked supercharged Nytro to replace my engine. The sc pulley is still mounted to the crank which is in the way of my oil tank. With bracing the the clutch from rotating backwards...which caused my problem to begin with...am I able to unbolt the sc pulley and install the original crank bolt from my runined engine? Or would it be easier to shim out the oil tank? I'm leary of rotating that engine backwards again. Thanks
 

Picked up a used engine from a wrecked supercharged Nytro to replace my engine. The sc pulley is still mounted to the crank which is in the way of my oil tank. With bracing the the clutch from rotating backwards...which caused my problem to begin with...am I able to unbolt the sc pulley and install the original crank bolt from my runined engine? Or would it be easier to shim out the oil tank? I'm leary of rotating that engine backwards again. Thanks
Hello you should be able to zip that bolt out with a impact it will come out easy if you use an impact then the engine won't rotate as easily or it shouldn't
 
I took the one out of my bad engine, seem to come out easily enough, wasn't sure if there was anything that was gonna come loose or be out of place when doing it. I just have to remember the wire that goes in there. Thanks
 
Picked up a used engine from a wrecked supercharged Nytro to replace my engine. The sc pulley is still mounted to the crank which is in the way of my oil tank. With bracing the the clutch from rotating backwards...which caused my problem to begin with...am I able to unbolt the sc pulley and install the original crank bolt from my runined engine? Or would it be easier to shim out the oil tank? I'm leary of rotating that engine backwards again. Thanks

You will have to pull the pulley. Take set screws out and move them to the other locations on the pulley. Thread them in until tight then take a rubber mallet and give the pulley a wack. That should release the taper lock. You will still need to pull the stub shaft with an impact and put the old bolt with wire and then put the cap back on the mag cover.
 
I guess that would be similar to removing my trucks rotor. I usually have to thread in 2 bolts to force the rotor from the hub. In regards of the stub shaft...I would need an impact gun? Is it threaded? Or would I need a puller?
 
I guess that would be similar to removing my trucks rotor. I usually have to thread in 2 bolts to force the rotor from the hub. In regards of the stub shaft...I would need an impact gun? Is it threaded? Or would I need a puller?

Impact is for the center bold on the stub shaft. The set screw release is for the tapper lock on the pulley.
 
Ok gotcha, doesn't sound too bad. Once I get the primary back on I'll attempt it. I'll need it to brace it from going backwards.
 
Quick question...I took a look at the pulley, 3 holes in total, 2 of the holes had set screws and 1 had nothing. I unscrewed the 2 set screws but all three holes look the same, am I just using the one hole that was empty?
 
Quick question...I took a look at the pulley, 3 holes in total, 2 of the holes had set screws and 1 had nothing. I unscrewed the 2 set screws but all three holes look the same, am I just using the one hole that was empty?

Yes, thread that one set screw in the hole that was empty until tight then take the rubber mallet and hit the alum in.
 
The stator cover, all bolts are removed but is there a magnet holding the cover in place? I don't want to damage anything. Im trying to pull it off the ruined engine first and it's not letting go. Any tips?
 


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